Duncan

yeah sadly you need fuel, ignition AND compression....you can try a compression test but I think you will get bad news if it doesn't start; particularly if it turns over very easily/quickly

I'd be surprised if you get relevant experience on this; once a bottom end is apart pretty much anyone is going to machine it and use new bearings (of a single grade within a size). Some top end race builds might try and blueprint by choosing the best bearing from a set for each journal but frankly the more important part is consistency of the machining.

Yes AFAIK it's only reason for existing in the car is to piss people off when it is actually engaged. But in any case it doesn't affect you using the key. I've been meaning to fix the same problem on the race car, I'm assuming its just full of dust etc.

It's been an error code kind of week have a search for "secret squirrel tweak" it has the details required. BTW its likely your Air Con relay won't work either, the Stageas appears to trigger it differently to Skylines

hahaha you both said bush. and yes....ebay says the c/f sheet is on it's way....

fine. so I am too literal.

what, lunch was unpaid? you are a harsh boss...

traction arms are always needed otherwise your car will crash to the ground. HA. HA. adjustable ones help with reducing bump steer when you lower the car, so you need them if you have noticed a bump steer problem and want to spend some time on an alignment hoist dialling it out. or, you could just chuck them in, adjust them to % of stock length based on how much you shortened the camber arm by and feel like it improved things like most people do

has it always been on since you put the PFC in? If so search for "secret squirrel tweak". If it turned on since grab a hand controller and find out which sensor is out of range. If it flashes like a disco stop driving it and get it retuned/checked out.

Well, it was the cheapest one around and they are crappy castings, you can certainly buy similar but better quality kits for 400+. but even so they are still 5mm cast iron so I can't see any problem. Certainly better than abusing big sockets like I have been. I just couldn't readily get the subframe into the press because the shape is horrible, so using just the threaded rod worked a treat

title updated, and moved to the builds section

made some progress on Neil's Radical's wiring this weekend, but stuff all on my car. I did get this snazzy pressing kit of ebay which made short work of the subframe bushes http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/231667756034 Just put a correctly sized sleeve above and below the bush turn the handle (OK, lots, and hard), and it is done voila

There's also some difference in the ABS senders, have a search for Eric (Pezhead)'s problem. Not sure that it is a big deal though.

Shame to hear that...but you're right, a race car gathering dust is no use to anyone. Whoever picks this up is getting a great deal

Good to see this one moving along Dave. Not sure if you can change the title, just let me know what you want it changed to...

And I would definitely source the oil pump gasket, who wants a leak there? Nissan or I think some of the aftermarket VRS kits have them

That's exactly the problem for me. If I could see proof that the tyre life/degradation will be x% slower or y% better grip for example, I could decide how much it is worth paying for the service. At the moment all the claims are unsubstantiated by any specific figures, let alone proven in some sort of study

Awesome, that makes perfect sense, thanks

because...I just double checked, there is a 10a feed from the tail light fuse which goes to the output of the relay, ie it may be trying to draw the whole high beam current through the tail light circuit with no relay in place. resulting in your car burning down.

lol, so all 3 worked relay-less.....odd. Nissan aren't in the habit of doing stupid stuff for no reason can I ask a small clarifying question....did you turn the low beams off before flicking the high beams? Thanks for helping

I'll bet there is....but you won't wont to hear what it costs on top the tyre's cost. I like Gordon Leven's style....lots of claims, no guarantee about actual outcomes for the money you spend. http://www.gordonleven.com/zapped4racing/about/

lol yeah, vice within a vice. and demonstrating that I need something better than sockets as pressing tools

OK, so Neil dropped by to help mount the various new toys around the car, but I got so damn sick of his complaining "there's shit f**king everywhere in this garage" so we put some stuff back together instead. Actually, since everything is shiny and new (or at least just shiny), it mostly went together pretty quickly. Biggest issue of course was not having anything the right sized pieces to press in the large bushes, in the end the rear subframe ones had to wait rear arms all have bushes and ball joints (except the LCA inner where it turns out whiteline have 2 parts listed, and I got the wrong one...) rear hubs back together. Neil had to do these since he's the only one old enough to remember drum brakes (and carburettors too, whatever they are) front suspension all ready to go with new bearings, ball joints and bushes.

Can someone with a (working, or at least wired up ) R32 do a quick test for me? I'm reworking the wiring in the racecar, but funnily enough the headlights are the most complex part in the car.... Under the bonnet in the fuse/relay box is a brown relay labelled H/LAMP. Disconnect that relay (unplug it from its loom below). Then, try 1. Low beam headlights should work 2. High beam headlights on should work 3. Flick high beams should not work. The wiring for the headlight switches is crazy complex for my little brain, so I just want to check my understanding that the relay only controls high beam flicking.

As long as you like! Basically whatever balancing was needed with the old paint will be different to what the new ones need, so no point putting the old ones back on. As for how long you can wait, it depends how long you can handle it.....pretty much luck about how well balanced they are, or are not, with the new paint. If there is a vibration when you drive get them balanced again