Duncan

do the boxes generally have their model cast into the casing? If so, where? unfortunately FAST does not give tranny code for a VIN

This thread makes me think about doing skids to the bottle shop

good old internet

I'd drive it, but maybe avoid skids. Clearly there are currently sufficient bolts because the gearbox hasn't fallen off. 5 minutes on a hoist at a workshop with a bolt collection will have it checked and resolved.

Hankook Z221 tyres are gone. The following are still for sale: 6 Volk Racing Le37 in 18x9.5 +12 Dunlop Sport Maxx TT tyres 225/55R17 Wideband 02 sensor controller Battery Box 32 Heater core and box 32 Radiator top mounts RB26 Engine Covers set 1 JJR RB26 sump baffles R34 GTT/C34 Stagea Series 2 Oxygen Sensor Ruzic Datalogger and Engine Monitor II

not much...somewhere between 240 and 250kw. But I've never been the slower car off the line, even against cars with much more power

yeah sorry I've got no idea on 1000m either, although there are others on here who do that. In both 400 and 1000 I would guess that the shortest gearing that doesn't require an extra gear change is the quickest, which is how I read what XKALABA was saying and yes I run 4.375 in the race car, its one of the few mods allowed. a bit like 400m there is a trade off between acceleration from shorter gears vs extra gear changes in corners.....I generally prefer a higher gear and midrange out of corners than screaming out sideways in a lower gear so shorter gears suit me. But that is only general, each track and lap time would be different

well 400m should be easy enough to decide, but for circuit use it will depend which tracks you go to, and how you find those ratios at the moment. Personally I prefer the shorter gears because in NSW we don't have tracks like Sandown or Phillip Island where you are in danger of hitting the rev limit in 5th

Anyway, there has been some progress since the last update, including today when I lured Neil over with the promise of a 1000klm race on TV, then made him work half the day. Picked up some finished bits: Front sump all finished; Coated in Thermal Dispersant coating and with the Quaife diff installed Rear diff reco-ed with new bearings/seals etc, it was otherwise OK. Interestingly Award told me I had been running synthetic diff oil which was clear due to glazing of the gears -they told me to use a mineral gear oil (Castrol Axle Limited Slip 85w140) instead so I'll give that a go Front subframe blasted and coated by Craved Wiper arms blasted and coated too. After 25 years they had lost a lot of paint resulting in nasty reflections off the stainless Front and Rear Calipers rebuilt by Specialised Brake and Clutch in Penrith, then coated in Thermal Dispersant Coating by Craved. No they don't look exciting but I'd rather they cool well New Clutch master and slave from Just Jap; the old master has been leaking unfortunately Blasted and Painted the Brake Master....looks crap in the pic but it actually came up well. It has also had a master cylinder leak in the past Pressed the bearings out of the front uprights and gave them a bit of a clean as well Since pretty much everything is out, and because I am looking to make the fuel system e85 ready in the future, I decided to drop the fuel tank and clean it out Rear end looks empty without a fuel tank and rear subframe I expected loads of crud inside the tank after 25 years, but instead there was almost nothing. Won't bother dropping plastic tank again! Should be up to putting things back rather than pulling them apart soon, would be nice to see the track again one day

Umm yeah sorry, kind of a slow response. Re the clutch, the current one is some sort of generic xceed 5 puck thing with a slightly lightened flywheel. I have to keep a clutch with the same number of plates (ie 1) as stock so am pretty limited. Having said that was much happier with my prior clutch, it was a custom single plate with billet flywheel and a full face (not puck) clutch. I used it happily for years but in the end it sometimes slipped with very big launches on sticky tyres. Once that had happened more than once I had to move to something with more clamping force because racing with a clutch welded to the flywheel is inconvenient Basically race clutches get very hot, especially with gtr launches (eg rallies, hillcimbs etc) and having a full face greatly reduces hot spots. Oh yeah, and the car launches beautifully, and I've never broken a tailshaft/driveshaft/gearbox/diff over 10 years of abuse

I have decided to move to a Haltec ECU and Dash, and so I no longer need my Ruzic setup. Package includes: Ruzic Engine Monitor Ruzic Data Logger Garmain GPS receiver The set cost over $1000 and worked well, selling in working order for $500....get data logging cheap!

Also have an R34 GTT / W34 Stagea S2 Oxygen sensor for sale, $90 delivered.....because it turns out it has a different plug to S1 Purchased from Kudos last week, brand new in box http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/genuine-nissan-pitwork-lambda-oxygen-sensor-nissan-skyline-r34-25gt-25gt4-25gtt-gtv-rb25de-rb25det-neo-p-187.html According to them it fits Nissan Skyline ER34 25GT (RB25DE Neo 6, 05/1998 - 08/2002) Nissan Skyline ENR34 25GT-4 (RB25DE Neo 6, 05/1998 - 06/2001) Nissan Skyline ER34 25GT-T (RB25DET Neo 6, 05/1998 - 08/2002) Nissan Skyline ER34 GT-V (RB25DE Neo 6, 01/1999 - 08/2002) Nissan Stagea WGNC34 25TX-FOUR, Series 2 (RB25DET Neo 6, 08/1998 - 03/2001) Nissan Stagea WGNC34 RS-Four S, Series 2 (RB25DET Neo 6, 08/1998 - 03/2001) Nissan Stagea WGNC34 RS-Four V, Series 2 (RB25DET Neo 6, 08/1998 - 03/2001) Nissan Stagea WGC34 RS-V (RB25DET Neo 6, 08/1998 - 03/2001)

well I've got a 32 in pieces in the garage, and both front and rear passenger side shafts are about 600 long, definitely neither is 570ish

+1 Chris at Craved Coatings is the man for this job, I've had him coat heaps of things for me and he has always been good and reasonably priced. And he'll be able to sort the stickers too.

frankly, I'd try somewhere else....

Yep 4 wheels for $2k although getting them to Adelaide would be painful and not cheap I guess. Tyres are Yokohama A048s but they are old and bald

You can't use recent auction sales or landed prices in AUD as any sort of guide, the exchange rate has dropped by 15% in the last 2 months. Simply put, even if you can find a 35,000 R34 you will have to pay more like 45,000 for it this now. At the moment, every car in the country came in under a much better exchange rate, so we are probably in one of those unusual times where you will get better value locally than importing.

46 ABS teeth on a 32 GTR/GTS4 diff

Yeah I've got a 32 gtr diff handy. Other than # teeth what do you need?

well...the offset is important, genuine rays have stickers inside the rim with the specs, and sometimes marked into the back of the hub mounting they will go for about 500ea

Sway bar is gone too. Everything else is still available

Excellent post with lots of detail, I'm sure it will be useful to lots of other people.

Oh I see, all is explained. CA18 was not Nissan's high point in engine design....imagine it in auto pushing a 1.5t car around.

I am the only person on the internet that doesn't know what an "FR32" is?

Yes, the rule will change. All things are impermanent