Duncan

actually mine too....while annoying every time I haven't bothered pulling it apart yet

I've been using gates belts for years on road and my race car with no issues. but anyway, that noise is horrible but almost certainly something rotating at the front. If I understood right you are saying the cam gear (intake in particular) is rubbing on the backing plate, that definitely should not happen. Also as Ben said that belt is dangerously loose and must be fixed ASAP, it is at major risk of skipping one or more teeth which can ultimately stuff your valves.

I am a bit old fashioned, but I suspect you are trying to buy wheels in Sydney. I am selling some.

well congrats to RTDC on taking out the championship then, I take it the bonus points relate to their choice to keep the same cars round to round which seems fair to me Also I think SAU should be proud of coming home second, we had great involvement across a lot of club members, and I bet everyone enjoyed the events. And considering there are 10 clubs competing across 4 rounds I reckon it is a pretty serious competition so 2nd is great outcome. And finally, well done to Nulon for creating and sticking with this concept....everyone go out and buy their oils!!!

Awesome response from DBA, great to see

yeah look actually I guess it was OK, more just that I'm not so familiar with the tricks. I had trouble with the steering rack but could have done it differently/easier no doubt. Now it's out it was easy to remove the box, flywheel, clutch and change the rear main seal also had the grumpy old man around today, the extra pair of hands made it much quicker to get the rear subframe apart and off

It was too slow. And to be honest I'm not sure of the allure, 34GTT is cheap enough these days surely; the import cost is more than the auction cost.

Look basically what you are trying to do is not safe or roadworthy. 4 or 5 degrees of camber is way too much for a road car and will dramatically reduce your braking ability. Further, even if you can get the wheel to tuck into the guard, the actual ADRs say the whole wheel has to be within the guards, not just the top when compressed. So do be surprised that people aren't super supportive of your plan to wreck you car and endanger yourself and others. Having said that, a key thing both people who said they got close to having this size wheel said was that they used GTR guards which have significantly more space, you definitely need to do that. GTR guards also need new headlights, front bumper, and a few other bits. Next, you should run as little caster as possible (will also make your car handle worse) to keep the wheel from hitting the front of the guard at the tightest point. And yes, you could run really short upper arms which would help it tuck in, and you will need to remove the inner wheel arch guards. The next point of clearance if they are far enough in is likely to be the swaybar, so I guess you could remove that as well (worse handling again). And the last thing I can think of would be to run undersized/"stretched" tyres (also illegal) to reduce rubbing as the wheel turns on either the inner or outer guard. But I think you are crazy to wreck an awesome car

Well, in a legal sense, there is no restriction about the country of origin for a model. Practically almost everything comes from japan because the buying and importing infrastructure is in place, and the total costs are much lower than coming from the UK. So its the same rules as always, if its on the SEVS register it COULD happen, as long as you can find a RAWS willing to comply it. A fair few top end cars come other than the usual skylines we all think of.

It may well be a band aid....but even if the issue comes back machinging is a cheap bet. There were more detailed responses about other areas it's worth checking. But overall, I guess I'm saying having to machine rotors every now and then isn't a big deal, even if there is an underlying cause. The exception would be if it goes out of round again quickly in which case I'd check it our more thoroughly

actually I thought it was the GSS342 because the inlet is on the bottom, like stock. they seem to be the same pump other than where the inlet fitting is (341 on the top, 342 on the bottom)

it could simply be a bad ECU, try another one? or even simpler, that the auto one was not plugged in correctly? There are also some differences among models for how the ECU power is supplied so maybe make sure it is the right ECU (check part# via FAST)

Sorry I've missed the point, why are offset bushes required? Aren't they only to fit the wide subframe on the narrow body cars?

and simple and easy to replace with basic tools and little knowledge (as long as you are confident to jack up a car and put it safely on stands). defiantly a DIY job

just grab the good old basic walbro. the FPR will handle making sure the pressure supplied is OK

But the good news is, the rules may be changed shortly to allow cars up to 10 years old in....now that would open up some interesting options

That is an impressive way to end a rotor. I assume there was not horrible thrumming immediately before it happened? I note DBA advertise their 4000 series as "Road and Race" so I am sure they won't try and avoid responsibility if it was their issue.

I wouldn't lose a second's sleep about it. Check the run out and machine them flat, and off you go again.

well actually I do remember something funny, but didn't mention because I think it was a red herring. And it was about 10 years ago. Basically I remember I reset it multiple times and it didn't flash the way it was meant to. But because I don't remember anything about the details, and I never knew what the issue is I don't think that helps

so finally got going again....took the motor out today. don't believe anyone that says out the bottom is easier than out the top....this was a PITA. But it will at least make it easy to get the subframe coated, gearbox changed and find that damn oil leak

dammit....what I did to my stagea lately is blow the damn turbo...the bearings are totally rooted. so basically, I got to spend sunday morning pulling the tow car apart instead of the race car and off to get it rebuilt tomorrow I guess. hopefully the turb bearings in the oil didn't hurt the motor

well.... any of those things leave an obvious white residue when dry in either the top of the radiator or overflow bottle. I don't know of a test for the coolant either. But more importantly, you can test for what is going wrong in a cooling system, it generally goes like this 1/ you notice it got way hot suddenly on a long drive 2/ you see lots of water missing and top up everything. 3/ you check the water after a few days driving and it is way low again 4/ you do a pressure test on the radiator (any mechanic can do it) which confirms there is a leak. 5/ you do a radiator gas analysis to confirm if there are any combustion gasses mixed in. If so you have some sort of head problem, if not you have a leak somewhere easier like radiator, hoses, turbo banjos, heater code etc etc. Might need a more specialist cooling system place for that One shortcut with a badly blown head gasket is that with radiator cap off and some big revs that the radiator bubbles like crazy. Or even more obvious if you remove the oil cap and see milky oil (mixed oil and water). But these don't always happen While it might be annoying (or lets face it, very f**king annoying on a $$$$ build) there is not much to be done if the engine was chemi welded. You can't take it back out, and it does often fix small problems.

Re the AFM plug, I've done my stagea the same way. Just splice the Z32 plug into the existing loom and keep the existing plug instead of cutting and replacing. with a PFC it is literally as easy as unplugging one, plugging in the other, and changing the setting in PFC.

I've got to say, I've got the same issue with the SP Tools kit....don't buy it! I bought BRAKE & CLUTCH PRESSURE BLEEDING KIT #: SP70809, and the cap they said fits does not. They later confirmed based on measurements that we need BRAKE & CLUTCH PRESSURE BLEEDING CAP - ALL HYUNDAI, MITSUBISHI, NISSAN & SUBARU #: SP70821 for 32, 34, 34 GTR, GTSt, Stagea etc The part has been on backorder for 8 months now so I also have a useless kit. And clearly SP Tools have no interest or intention of supporting their customers.

I fitted one of those correctors to me c34 as well (inaccurate speedos bug me), I just did it behind the dash...sorry, I didn't take pics. But on the rear of the dash it does mark which track is the speed in, which you can trace to the plug and then intercept the wire in the loom.