Duncan

D51 is more than enough, I've been running one in my 3l stagea for years. don't forget these are reasonably low compression motors with good electronics so they start pretty easy. The only time I'd be a bit hesitant is if you have an aftermarket tune without good cold start.....even then you are a better to fix the cold start than get a bigger battery. Like Junkie said the problem you are most likely to have is with poor adaption of the wrong battery size to the factory loom. Its the sort of thing that is normally OK for a while then you start to get annoying drop outs or undercharging because of poor connections. BTW I think its D51R to get the terminals around the right way, double check before you order. The have models with terminals on either side, and also in either size

definitely 100% not -5s, they came along about 15 years later. there are guys on here who know what they ran for sure, but I'll bet the were big old modified bush bearing things in the original/factory housings. The R32 production Nismo and then N1 models had big bush bearing turbos and I'll bet that's what they started with. We have to run the original turbs for racing rules and they are nasty, old fashioned things. They spool as slow as a -5 but only give the power of a -7, about 250kw at 12psi BTW, I note the GCG website says "This Turbocharger is the turbocharger that was fitted on the Bathurst Nissan Skyline R32 GTR", and I still bet it's not true

I guess you are using this for drag racing use only, for circuit or rally use there are a range of electronic controllers that give excellent results. For drag use I've either seen custom system like you are looking at, OR, HKS used to make a controller for drag racing that provided a fixed split. There is nothing wrong with the mechanical system for drag use, you just want it to operate at a different time....so the right computer is all you need

Hi mate, firstly please be aware I'm just looking this up, they are not part numbers I can personally confirm as correct. 31536-05U00 is the driven plate and 31532-05U00 is the clutch plate They are section 333 in FAST Any Nissan deal can order based on those part numbers (although they may choose not to). Websites like amayama.com will also deliver based on those genuine numbers

great post, this quote from the article was spot on... We buy chemicals and sprays at a local parts house and think to ourselves how can this be so bad health wise if we use it, I am buying it over the counter?

I just wanted to clarify, there is no issue with running the pump at full voltage at all times, it certainly won't cause it to run rich or anything like that (the fuel pressure regulator manages pressure, the pump has no impact unless it can't provide full pressure to the FPR - in which case your engine will almost certainly go bang). I guess they run at lower voltage stock to keep the fuel cool by not pushing it through the system unnecessarily. It returns to full voltage once you leave idle anyway. One thing to watch, the ECU uses the negative side to stop the pump running when the engine isn't (after priming) so you do still need the negative from the ECU. If you directly earth the pump you will lose that important safety feature.

I feel dirty approving this as a motorsport build, but hey it seems to have a cage

nasty. where is the love these days. you've both changed

lol silver is partly to find leaks, its much easier to see what is happening when everything is not black on black. both the xfer case and gerbox have breathers from the factory, they a plastic lines that run to the top of the bellhousing. A coolant leak near the RH steering rack is most likely from one of the water lines under the manifold. Like the oil it drops from the block, pools on top of the diff, then runs off backwards (over the steering rack) or forwards (over the front diff cover)

I was with shannons with both the cars and house for years because they were cheap up front for premiums However I had 2 major troubles with 2 different claims and would never use them again (pm for details). What use is a cheap premium when you they make claiming as difficult as possible... BTW they are owned by Suncorp and have been for a while. So they are just a pretty logo and funny ads over a big old fashioned financial institution

well that's not so bad (although frustrating of course). do you have the breather extension on the transfer case? It should end on top of the gearbox bellhousing where it bolts to the motor. If yes, you can be sure it is a leak not just the xfer case breathing. If no, it will be hard to tell (so add a breather!). If it is a leak the fitting at the rear to the resoviour is a common point, try nipping it up. Also possible check the drain plug. If neither of those it is probably the o-ring at the rear of the case. The leak at the DS steering boot will be from the block where the oil filter is stock. What oil filter setup do you have? in any case check tightness there, although it can be really hard to get to properly. For coolant it can be lots of places. Get a pressure test done, until you do there is nothing but frustration ahead because apart from just the leak, you will also lose coolant under pressure, eventually resulting in overheating (or continual top ups)

ahh we've all had those days. was it just blowby or something more serious

no matter how well behaved Cheryl is, I think 4wd might be the way to go this weekend. Snow forecast says And this was apparently the highway just outside Tamworth....

yeah mate, take it to Pete Hennessy at Road and Race in Rydalmere, he knows his stuff.

The thing I think has been missed in this thread is that there is absolutely no reason to upgrade the factory brakes for street use...they are excellent. Like FBracing said, if you are actually having problems for street use at most you could do with some better pads and maybe bleed the fluid.

good digging and information, thanks Like I said a few years back, it would be interesting to see back to back between stagea and skyline cams to prove the different, I never got around to it.....

Well yes, "sticking an extra friction plate in there" is essentially how you modify them for more front torque, just like tightening up the mechanical diffs. I suspect there is a little more to it than just throwing an extra plate in as far as getting measuring and getting the right amount of forward drive without locking it up all the time, but if you understand how much extra you need then go for it!

lol that was my first thought too, 355 should be adequate to get your groceries home quickly I don't know that it applies to the series2/NEO motor, but the S1 motor apparently has less aggressive cams than the skyline (not that I've ever had them measure to prove this). So if that's correct, a pair of cams might give you a bigger gain than normal.

That's about right for the price difference. I haven't run on either but I'd happily take the Hankooks. Yokohama had them banned from Superlap for a reason, and most of the people that buy new Yokos do so because their race rules require thenm.....

welcome back, and sorry you chose a 35 over a 34 do you still have the cima too?

yeah, pete used to be a lot cooler. where is that sideways camera burger-ring vid

Set 2 engine covers sold. And for those who asked, yes I am happy to sell the wheels as either pairs or 4, $500ea.

made some progress over the weekend.... got the gearbox back from award. I actually bought this brand new from Just Jap about 10 years ago, ran it in the race for a few years until it got crunchy and then put it in the stagea where it did another 100,000klm. By the end it was pretty whirry and crunch so Award put new bearings and synchros in. Since it was the S3 33 box in the first place no parts upgrades where required. They also tightened the transfer case clutch packs while it was apart. Also got the arms and subframe back from Chris@Craved, they were quick, cheap, and have come up awesome in nismo silver. finished pulling the front suspension out, I think I will keep going and drop the engine as well so I can coat the front subframe too, it has been painted in the past and looks terrible. Sorry for the terrible lighting in the pic Everything was in reasonable condition except the front passenger side wheel bearing which was farked. I'll get some pics later but I think the shop that put the driveshafts in before high country didn't do up the hub nut properly. One thing while I'm here, one of the few mods allowed in Production Cars is to move the inner end of the LCA to get the required camber. This pic doesn't show it too well but about 1cm of material has been added and the studs moved out by the same amount to get more camber while retaining standard geometery. This subframe was originally out of the BSM IPRA car but the rules are the same in this case.

oh f**k I missed my chance to lock this thread on page 69

awesome setup, I think I'll copy it for the ute that lives outside. those cheapy solar chargers do not work well with good quality (eg AGM) batteries because they don't regulate properly, so while the $80 seems expensive it is actually pretty cheap for that sort of setup