Duncan

yeah it does look f**king awesome. or at least it did until I took the big jump at targa high country and turned it from an O to a D shape also it is way light, something like 8kg for the cat back....my old steel one was super heavy

lol yeah that didn't go well, did it.... It's kind of hard to answer re the exhaust, I've got it on the race car. It is quieter than the 4" exhaust that it replaced and I don't run the silencer of course. We do a lot of klms cruising on rallies and it didn't worry me. On the other hand I guess plenty of people have found them too loud for street car use because they often turn up second hand and cheap on here....

Yeah FAST wont tell you serial numbers...but in any case why does it matter? I would have thought the important question is whether the engine in the car is good, not whether its ever had to be changed?

ummm funnily enough, I do

hmm what is it about hammers, you just demanded I buy a bigger one because the current one was too small....

lol I know it wasn't literally all night...but remember going to bed at 1 and back up at 5 at a certain rally last year.....

Sorry I didn't pay enough attention to your first sentence If the cams are out you are fine.....just turn the crank to where you want it (on the timing marks, or as jiffo said just past if you want a margin of safety) the put the cams in and turn them to the same place. You wont have valves touch pistons until the cam caps are tightened down, until then the valve springs will hold every valve closed (up)

Just a quick plug for Optima batteries for doing the right thing! I've got a couple of cars that don't get used much, and I got sick of having to buy new batteries every 6 months after letting them drain too much to recover; so I switched to AGM batteries. While they cost about 50-100% more than lead acid, they are very good with recovering if they ever get fully discharged. I bought an Optima D51 from the cheapest place I could find on ebay about 2.5 years ago, and when it died recently I got back in touch as they have a 3 year warranty. The ebay seller was very unhelpful and difficult, but after we talked a bit about warranties and fair trading he put me in touch the Graeme at Optima. Graeme was very helpful, and once I provided a copy of the battery bar code, a battery test result from the local battery world, and a copy of the receipt, a brand new battery was couriered to me the next day. So anyway, huge thumbs up to Optima for honouring their promises without any fuss

You almost certainly haven't hurt it already if you were just turning it by hand, valves are pretty tough. To put it back you just need to time it like always.....have the balancer and both cams on the 0 degree markings. If it was nowhere near the 0 marks when you took the belt off you made it hard for yourself, so turn both cams and the crank evenly and in small increments until you get to 0.

yeah mate, I never left....just put it on hold. for too damn long! brake parts courtesy of Matthew at Racebrakes Sydney The car runs standard size discs front and rear as per Production Car specs (DBA5928 on the front and DBA4929 on the rear). For calipers we can upgrade from standard as long as it fits the standard disc and has the same number of pistons as stock, so I run 996 Porsche calipers on the front with adapters, and gtr brembos on the rear For pads I've taken Matthew's advice and am giving Winmax a go, W7 compound on the front (WMP780-W7) and W3 compound on the rear (WMP330-W3). The last pads I had were Pagid Rs14 and while they worked well, they fell about after about 50% wear.

yeah, the same and a lot cheaper. the only difference is a GTR vs Stagea logo on the centre cap. The other cheap, excellent wheels are 33 GTR

Holy shit, how fast were you guys driving to get that far in 5 1/2 minutes!!

Hi mate, just recheck your pic, it shows 23300-20P05, not what you posted above (-20P050). You could always buy brand new from amayama but ouch! US519 https://www.amayama.com/en/search?q=23300-20P05. I don't know how to reverse search to a model, but your number matches an R33 GTST VIN that I have. It has an alternate part number 23300-AA300 which will be a direct fit, and another part number 23300-08U15 for a different "specification"....my non-existent Japanese wont let me work out the difference Anyway, all that aside, if you are happy to buy from Japan just contact Jesse Streeter and tell him you need a starter motor for an RB25 he'll come up with new and 2nd options for you.

There were probably a bunch of CA based motors in the states in small cars in the early 90s that might also suit, I think they were similar

lol yeah I was talking about the car....the engine was proven to be fine in proper applications (ie, how Nissan did it )

Firstly, that part number format is correct, it is xxxxx-xxxxx so there is no digit missing. Starters are not normally a problem in Oz because all of the RB motors (RB30, RB25, RB26, RB20) all use the same one, as well as a locally built holden shitbox. They would also be readily available ex japan, but I have no idea what common US car would use the same.

so, a little more progress. most of the crappy undoing jobs are done now, probably only 1 more day taking stuff off the car. Neil missed all end of the fun today while sleeping off his Olivia's Benefit night hangover, the last of the de-pressing is done and everything is ready to head up to craved for powdercoating even with the right tools, removing 25 year old factory bushes is a pain in the arse....definitely pay a shop to do it if you get the chance! also dropped off the spare motor for machining, a gearbox and xfr case to award for rebuilding, and ordered new front and rear pads and rotors from Matthew at Racebrakes. Still need to take the dash and the interior out to lightening the wiring loom at last, I guess that is for the next few weeks.

what did you leave unplugged? It is possible the oil pressure is related to the front mount install....if you have a leak in the intake as said above it will idle lower or even die; when the engine is at low revs because its not idling properly the oil pressure may be very low

Thanks Nick, that's the post I was actually looking for

found it, I knew I'd posted something recently: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18757-what-do-i-need-to-do-to-my-car-before-a-track-day/?hl=track#entry596738

I'm intrigued as to how many people have run them back to back to compare?

haha f**k no!

you thinking about giving it a go? I really enjoy the multi run hillclimb +nav format that Buller used to be. I assume rules aren't important considering the changes you've made recently (they don't really matter at Mountain motorsports either....or for Targa sometimes it seems....)

not true in NSW, although I don't know about QLD. In NSW they can even make enforceable findings, although if they are ignored you need to take the further action (CTTT or local court) if you do need to enforce them

supercharger first, then a bypass valve opens for the it when the turbo takes over.....interesting little thing....I think there were some heavy drugs done in Nissan engineering dept in the mid to late 80s. BTW, do you think Gibson spent more or less than they said? It was without a doubt the best engineered car on the grid, even the 31s were very impressive for their base