Duncan

oh...if the motor is out and you already have the front diff I'd change my vote....take Paul's advice and put that in as it is simple when the sump is out of the car

Don't fit either, sell them both. The rear diff is already a mechanical diff, and if you do want it tighter any diff shop can do it for a couple of hundred. Changing the front diff is a disaster of a job unless the engine is out, and an LSD is only going to help at the front if you are having excessive wheelspin from 1 front wheel under power. Spend the money from selling them on stuff you will notice like new shocks/springs or swaybars. Or beer and hookers.

spotted a white m35 parked outside where I'm staying in Newcastle last night

Enough trolling thanks everyone. Clearly any given car has a specific temp where it works best. The stock gauge in a modern car will read about half when it is at the right temp for that car. Generally newer cars are designed to run much hotter than you might think.

Not sure why you wanted Teins, anyway I'd get a set of Bilsteins modified by Sydneykid.

8 weeks so far, but I'm looking for something specific this time. Generally I'd still expect 4-8 weeks to find a good car. And THEN the wait begins....if you are feeling impatient now wait until it has been at the compliers for 3 months waiting for a RAWS audit....

I found and fixed the melted vacuum hose that was giving me unlimited boost. I'm in 2 minds about the change....there was a certain fun to running ???kw@30psi instead of 260@18psi. It sure went wooooosh.

Hi all, I'm looking for a 32 GTR diff in usable condition.....let me know what you've got, and where it is! Thanks, Duncan

ha! I guess you could hold on! Well done with back to back wins in early modern!

Excellent morning....thanks Trish and Terry for hosting, and to the exec team for organising

Seems like a reasonable description, I guess they are taking the responsibility that the part is correct. If you want me to double check the part# send me your VIN# and I will check in FAST....I guess it will be the same Zeb posted above

just loose is pretty likely, it is one place you could pull the front suspension apart to remove and reinstall the engine (to clear the driveshaft) Don't worry about what it is called, as long as they are talking about the right joint you are fine. If you pointed out to them that it only allows movement in 1 direction they would agree it can't be called a ball joint... BTW these very rarely fail....they are hugely over engineered for their job.

Good luck tomorrow Liam....hope you can hold onto the spot!

agreed...warranty time, especially if it wasn't doing that before the "rebuild"!

don't bother with anything unless you really have some money you need to spend.....apart from the noise a bad thrust bearing can go for years without any issue. Just change it when you actually need a clutch

hmmm, so who went under the minimum times today and copped a 5min per stage penalty?

The pressure sender ports will not leak, just use a little thread tape and do them up fairly tight (tighter than a filter), they are tapered threads and will pull down to a good seal. For the main thread assemble as Mick said and tighten like a filter....still pretty tight. These things are a bastard if they start leaking. BTW I guess you've already decided what to install....but I'd always relocate the filter at the same time to make oil changes easier.

Hey Liam good to see you are heading down, good luck! And Damo and Ben, hope you have quiet weeks on the crew side.... Kel and Steve are not off to an awesome start, they blew something, probably a turbo at symonds plains today....long arvo ahead but at least they have a spare.

and even with 1 jack stand, it felt safer than looking for upper arms in the subframe graveyard down the back

yeah light hail in Gladesville too, but can't see any dents on the cima

honestly I'd put some proper semis on it first, they will change what you need for camber anyway. You'll keep having problems and frustrations trying to track with road tyres.

but yes, if you turn the cams hard, and more than a little, you can bend valves.

yeah assuming it's not a welsh plug, it will be engine out and new block required to fix it. however, depending on what you choose to do at the same time, it doesn't have to be that expensive. A second hand block, reuse existing pistons if they are already oversize ($0) or new pistons if not ($1k) plus basic machining, rings and bearings. You can do all that for under $1k + pistons if needed.

ooooo.....where?

yeah sorry, not trying to alarm just inform. also the other issue for excessively rich tune on a new motor is fuel gets past the unbedded rings and into the oil...and petrol is terrible for bearings.