Duncan

Yeah just space it out if you need to, those shock bodies are way bigger than standard. The shock only acts as a shock on r series chassis so its exact location is not important

I don't know the answer with a 34, but for sure the standard bumper location is the limiting factor with a 32, that is where the larger diameter tyres I was trying to run were rubbing (noting I had already rolled the guard lip)

Yeah PAR is all custom cut to order, so you can move the ratios around for what you need

This thread always delivers, thanks again mate

I like that he had presence of mind to hit the kill switch....and even more so that the obligatory dash mat stayed in place (who wants a sun cracked dash!)

well, Gary doesn't own a suspension shop (any more) and I think he is choosing when to engage/how much time to put in to SAU or selling kits, which is totally his right. He has shared a huge amount of experience on here over the years from both his direct knowledge of the suspension of these cars, and from being part of a serious effort to race R32s and all of that written knowledge is still available here, so I totally understand him not wanting to answer 50 pms a day for what is essentially a hobby. Heasman's in Sydenham for those in Sydney, or your local Bilstein dealer elsewhere could also assist with Bilstein based kits, noting they would not include custom revalving but would still be generally suitable for these cars.

If you have the factory number plate frames front and rear, the JDM plates will bolt straight on

Whoa, another light green stagea, don't see too many of those around

Actually, pics of the a pillar brace and how it goes with the dash would be good, and also did you have to go custom door cards to miss the 2nd side intrusion bar? The rest of it can work as long as I cut the top 100mm off my helmet

Good news, inflexible middle aged driver and nav can get in OK, and probably, we can pass the "prove you can get out in x seconds if the car was on fire test" (yes, that's a thing now). Lucky Bob the Evo we hired a few years back had a similar cage and we could get in and out OK, although access to the back to chuck helmets etc in was a pain On to the bigger problem. A 32 coupe is not a big car, I'm not short, and the new regs require no part of the helmet is closer than 50mm to the top of the cage at the roof, and same distance between the outside of the side bar at the roof and the helmets. Having had a good look at it, Kel's seat is OK because it can be kind of anywhere, so we can remake the mounts and get it down and in. Mine however is a problem. I can probably get it the required 80mm lower by removing the slide and fix mounting the seat (there goes Kel's ability to driver the car without a seat insert....) but worse I need to move the seat inward 50mm as well, meaning the pedals and steering wheel will be offset.

More seriously though....the combination of the difficulty getting parts to repair the car, together with the issues around tarmac rally reg changes have been the real thing that has kept me from putting the car back together. Firstly, it's really clear that my cheapy import race car is no longer cheap. Things like bonnets and front guards are NLA, not to mention intercoolers, radiator supports, rear bars, boot lids, the list is endless (speaking of which, I made a throw away joke to my japanese friend Tsuyoshi....who then turned up with a boot lid in luggage on his next visit, what a legend!) Bottom line, while I've got it fixed this time, there is a really high chance that next crash (small or large) will result in something I can't fix. Yes, there's no point having a race car that doesn't race, but it feels like the car is one minor incident away from being an unrepairable car that can't race. The other issue on my mind has been the upcoming changes to regs. The less important thing is that grandfathered cages will no longer be allowed; we've been running this car for about 15 years with a pretty basic 6 point cage with 1 diagonal in the main hoop. New rules mean we need to add: * Second cross in the main hoop * Cross brace in the roof (close to helmets unfortunately) * 2nd side intrusion bar each side * 2nd brace from the top to bottom of the a pillar So, I put all those extra bars in last weekend: Driver side Nav side

So there has actually been more progress than that, just not a lot. Firstly, I changed the DSF wheel bearing, finished up today. I have been getting away with murder for years moving the car around without the drive shaft in (when the engine is out), however my luck ran out when the car was at the smash repair and the bearing separated while they were pushing it around. Since I don't know what damage if any was done to the actual bearing I figured safest bet was just to change it. So she has wheels and tyres back on, and on the ground for the first time in a while

Hey Mark, hope the bionic shoulder is working properly now, just saw that in your post I'll try and send you some info because it would be interesting to see how close we got in size, but not going to get a chance until next week at earliest. In the meantime, for those who thought I've done nothing on the race car lately, here's some big news: From this: To this:

Post 2 in this thread is my C34 with a R34 manual console, you can see it is a tiny bit different but not noticeable, and clips straight in. Only issue is you have to move the g sensor a little with the manual console.

Welcome to SAU, they really are more fun manual

I've got the nismo twin in the stagea, it is very progressive for a multiplate, medium pedal weight, holds the required torque no problems. It is noisy with foot on the clutch but that may well be the gearbox bearings, it is ex race car

FWIW the packing will have come from a muffler, not the cat; they have a metallic honeycomb (if the innards are still there)

If you can get access to the data for any R series GTR from the dyno settings or manufacturer, that will be close enough for all 4wd R series and Stagea, it is 99% the same

It really doesn't matter much who made it, unless if is obviously poorly routed or restrictive in a section; what matters is the nominal cross section. For most normal-medium power you go 3" from the cat back for a good combination of free flow and retaining ground clearance. Front and dump pipes are tricker to get in larger sizes and are the most common restriction

Sure, but the result will put so little power to the ground it won't be able to move. Whatever your reason, it will be cheaper and more practical to sell the manual and buy an automatic

Is WHC34 a 2 wheel drive Stagea? 4wd Stagea 100% fits, and I'd say 99% sure 2wd will too....they just used the GTR setup as that best suited the wagon floor. BTW I hope you saw Brett's post about potential reasons for a leak, unless you can see the plastic cracked somewhere, it is unlikely to be the tank itself leaking. Can you see fuel dripping or is it just a smell when you park? Have you had any of the tank/pump holder apart?

You certainly can use a WGNC34 tank in a R32 GTR, they are different part numbers but functionally identical. I have some pics comparing them in the last few pages of my Stagea build thread BTW you can't trust the same part code "17201" to say it is identical, you need to use the VIN to get the 17201-xxxxx part number to be sure from a FAST point of view. Even then of course there are examples like this where there are 2 part numbers but they are interchangeable.

Welcome Jesse, got any pics?

With that diagram you posted first, often the adjacent section of the workshop manual will confirm what the wires actually do as well. Of the 2 wires between the sensor and ECU I assume 1 is power supply, probably 5v and the other is signal to the ECU, but it isn't possible to tell which is which from the diagram. Unfortunately if you have grounded the ECU 5v output by accident you might have damaged the ECU (or if you are lucky just popped a fuse). Why does the ECU not have these wires, was it a non-AC car or a different ECU to factory?

GTR are, not sure about GTST