Duncan

well yes, I agree they change more than road tyres with usage....but that's no reason not to start with a balanced tyre! it's more an argument to balance them again later if they start to vibrate

absolute rubbish.

Wheel spacers are not the devil, although 8mm is pretty large. The relevant question is how much wheel stud do you get to put the nut on. Since the studs are M12 you should be looking for at leas 12mm of stud in the nut

can't see why you'd want to drain the fuel either....if the lines are empty they and the various o rings etc are more likely to perish. one thing I would suggest is a low tank of fuel that you fill fresh when your are running again, and of course an oil change when you get back as well.

having let cars not running all the time, I'd disconnect the battery positive and walk away happily.

Matt...on the form! Eric...thanks, awesome.

Hi guys, my member card expired last December and I will need either a current club card or letter confirming I am a member next weekend for Nulon round 2. I sent my form across last week with a note it is urgent but have not received acknowledgement or the new card yet. Please help.

lol thanks pete, you still got your eyes on those tasty rims?

hang on, do you mean: "along with the return of the previous rule in relation to Classic competition wheel sizes, which will come into effect immediately after this year’s Targa Tasmania. " because that wouldn't affect early modern? detail from the regs: 59. Wheels Wheel make and construction are free provided they meet the load carrying capabilities of the vehicle. The following size allowances apply to the standard wheel size available for the model of vehicle not including any options or variants. Modern SS and Showroom Wheel diameters may be varied by a maximum of plus or minus 1” Modern LMS and M S Wheel diameters and width may be varied by a maximum of plus or minus 2” Classic SS and All Specifications from 3rd May 2015 Wheel diameters and width may be varied by maximum of plus or minus 2” to a maximum size of 17” diameter and 8” wide unless the original wheel is larger in diameter and/or width in which case the original wheel size shall be the maximum size. Classic LMS and MS until 3rd May 2015 Maximum wheel size is 17” in diameter and 8” wide unless original wheel size is larger in diameter and/or width in which case the original wheel size shall be the maximum size. So I think it hasn't changed for me. BTW looks like Steve may have a problem: The following vehicle types will not be granted entry into the Modern or Showroom category: • Vehicles made by one manufacturer and then modified and re–tuned and released as a derivative of the original car under another name are not permitted.

ahh, you mean the "good news you can have certainty there are no rules changes for the next three years" rules? Thanks for mentioning because that would save me a heap of trouble....I can just run 33 gtr wheels and everyone comes back to my size

lol for once I think Pete's onto something

you opening an import dealership?

Yeah mate the trailer is awesome, been quite a step up from the death trailer that we used for so long. An interesting sideline from the weekend..... At the Federal tyres tech night Mick Hart pointed out that the width of tyres are not always the same between brands, and that semi slicks in particular vary a lot. So here's an example.....some Dunlop 245 and Federal 245 next to each other on the floor.... The pair of Federals are at least 15mm wider than the dunlops As far as actual race car work, I've got this de-pressing pile to get to (you are dead right Charles!). Actually spent a fair bit of time trying to remove some 25 year old studs from a hub and had no luck; neither bashing nor pressing up to 5tonnes....the damn things were not about to fall out. And some actual car work....I've been running standard sized wheels all this time, 17x8 which has plenty of clearance inner and outer to the standard guards. But Targa rules allow +2" so I'm looking to fit some 18x10s to allow rubber that will last longer.... Interestingly, what everyone says "fits" doesn't really....ie what looks good does not provide much clearance. I bought a set of light and strong rays in 18x 9.5 +12 but even with 245 tyres on and rolled guards there is less than 10mm clearance to the outer guard at full compression, but at least 25mm to the tie rod end and over 40mm to the inner guard. So, stuffed if I can see the point of a 2" wider wheel that has to run the same 245s I put on 8" rims.....sadly that means these purty rims are up for sale and I'm looking for 18x10 +25 to +35 offset in a similar forged rim In any case, rolling one rear is done, I'll get the other side and the front done next weekend. As you can see I took the spring off but put the shock back in so I could easily check the wheel over it's full movement. BTW if you ever do it, remember to disconnect the sway bar too

its all skyline sized in there, so just grab ones to suit 32 gtr or 33 gtst. I'm using the ones that came with the 32 gtr g4 kit

oh yeah, that's another thing. less pies = faster laps arms are not a simple choice because the cheap ones invariably use cheap rod end bearings which flog out and start knocking reasonably quickly in road use....

It's unlikely you need aftermarket arms, you can get pretty much any sensible alignment with just adjustable bushes in the factory stuff. Also, depending on the arms you get they sometimes have a habit of breaking unexpectedly....

Hi mate, rather than looking for a different clutch, you need to work out why you are "burning through" them if they only last a month or 3. How do they fail? How are you treating them?

if it runs well and doesn't blow smoke, don't worry about it. btw does it have standard cams? the number are low but cams can affect that (and also the exact testing procedure of course(

got a mate who needs to do the timing belt on a liberty locally.....any shops who know them well?

Been a while since an update. Has Cheryl taken any lap records or made any podiums this year?

yeah its outrageously hard to remove....I'd suggest getting a shop to do it. The sensors themselves have terrible sides on the hex it is really easy to round off once you've dropped the box down enough to get to it in the first place.

That VIN was build in 10/97. I agree, most likely the person you bought it from pocketed the $1000 for downgrading the brakes :thumbsdown: Having said that the 32 brakes are fine for street use, and Ksport/ATTKD etc make good upgrades from about 2000

lol yeah sucks to be you. or me. honestly I think you need someone to trace it through...I don't have the details of all the changes but there were a bunch of differences between 0V310 ECUs and the R34 loom. Is yours running OK? Where other changes required? If it's just the AC check what trigger the compressor is expecting by either earthing or applying 12v (via a 10A fuse)

We bought this Cube as a cheap and easy daily drive back in Nov 2010, first Australian owners after Just Jap imported it. Now I'm working and Canberra and have the Cima, the Cube is sitting around so it's time to move it on to a new owner. 2003 BZ11 Nissan Cube 165,000klm 4 months rego Serviced every 5,000klm since import, in good condition Details are: 4 speed auto Fuel efficient 1.4l engine, gives 5l/100klm Air con, power steer, power windows, auto headlights, ABS, airbags, central locking Includes factory wheel arch flares and mild bodykit 18" wheels to really show off the rear drum brakes Has a genuine HKS exhaust which adds a nice note without being loud or drone-y. Interior, exterior and mechanically in good condition Easy to park due to awesome steering angles and visibility Plenty of interior space Easy to find in carparks...

yep, if yours is 97 it is late type (same as R34 GTT I think). Middle model is August 96 (mine) and the first model was prior to that. Workshop manual shows the first wiring layout, I understand the late type is identical to 34 gtt but I'll let someone else confirm. Alternatively if you post up your VIN (or pm to me if you prefer privacy) someone with FAST can look up your ECU part number to confirm