Duncan

Can I just check, you need the globe holders and wiring because you can't reuse the old ones? Can you post a pic of the car side plug, the wiring may be the same as GTR (even though the housing isn't). BTW same issue exists in GTR indicators, you can get the housing through nismo but the original housing + wiring part is NLA

I'd go nylon brush (toothbrush would suit) and brake cleaner

Fixed

Does the old one line up OK if you try to put it back in? In the 32 (different geometry) it is hard to reinsert the ball joint with the sway bar and spring attached. But ultimately.....this wouldn't be the first aftermarket part that is not right....

There really isn't enough to help remotely....the nav screen likely takes it's visual feed from another unit that is not plugged in properly now (that is how the cima worked at least). Sounds like at least the reverse cam works. It is a possibility the screen is dead of course, minor knock while it was apart. I had to replace the Cima screen because it would not display anything in the morning when below 0.

Yeah that sounds like a way to isolate the issue, but I am not sure how easy it is to get a gauge on it; as Greg said it is subframe out to do anything anyway. As it happens FPG also have a attesa pressure sender which goes in the rear of the xfer case. I have a kit but have not installed in the race car yet (because, race car) https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/collections/nissan-skyline-r32gt-r/products/fpg-bnr32-attesa-high-pressure-hose-replacement-with-optional-pressure-sensor-adapter-fpg-116

Yeah exactly the switch unit just needs to be designed with those numbers (or thereabouts, obviously the high one is the more dangerous if you don't get it right). It would be worth contacting FPG, they are pretty responsive and might be able to add to their lineup with you M35 information, the have 80% sorted already from the GTR one. https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/

Sorry I'm not familiar with the 34 setup and don't have the 34 wiring diagram. This snip from the 32 manual might help with how Nissan thinks, note there are 2 fuses to the hazards, #17 and #22....are you certain all your fuses are good?

O Canada! We wish in Aus. I just paid $20 for a snap ring from Nissan O, $4.47ea from Amayama.

well, FWIW mechanic is surely not right about the bearings being aluminium, they would be softer; mostly tin, nickel, copper and lead on a steel shell.

Did the oil analysis include the acceptable range for Lead? Last one i has said 1ppm is the limit and the engine I was testing had 74, 80 and 33 (was the race car, tested from brand new run in engine). It may not help to tell you the engine didn't last long, but they never did back then

Took me a while to answer that.... Funny thing is, the across the river neighbour did put in an airstrip, built a hanger, and buy a cessna, because strangely they aren't allowed to build a house on the property but there is no problem building an airport terminal They've used in 3 times, once for an attempted landing where they misjudged a little, aborted and missed the trees by so little that new underwear was required. Second time the landing stuck, then a few weeks later the plane left and never returned, so I don't think aircraft noise is going to be an issue. Funny looking back through the last few posts too, I've spent a heap of time lately redoing the roads and drains so I guess it is a 2 yearly thing to add to the calendar. Those big drains did overflow in the rain about a month ago so that is pretty disheartening....just a reminder that you can't stop nature I guess.

That finish came up awesome.

if you want them perfect you will need to strip and repaint (or better, powder coat). They look fine for most use though to me fixing light to medium gouges in the rim is pretty straightforward, can be done on a big lathe, or even on the car, on a hoist with tyre off. deep gouges get bog, no other option really

welcome to SAU

I agree, particularly if the test was done before the engine was warmed up (which is how you would normally do it so you don't burn yourself). Have you confirmed it is not loosing coolant since the first instance? Also, has the overheating after a while thing only been happening since it got hot, or did it do so before that as well?

Surely after 35 years you need to match the existing colour rather than painting factory, unless you are going to do the full car

It all sounds fixable but I'm no smash repairer. I'd get a quote or 2 to get it repaired

So, any change the inspector had a warranty/insurance? Something that major is not acceptable for a professional to miss. Details of the issue might help, there are ways to address chassis rail damage for instance.

Surely you can't race your brother from another mother....

Its always the fronts that get worn/cracked due to being the steering end

I understand a shop being concerned "their" tune will be taken and used by another shop, but assuming you are paying by the hour access to their existing skills and IP should be included in that price. Password protection would be a total deal breaker for me as it locks you in to them forever, what if they go broke?

Yes, the CV shop will confirm if the joint is reusable, it almost always just needs a new boot and grease. I'm not sure on current pricing, I last had a set done ages ago, but the $190 for new/aftermarket might be very competitive.

rebuilding is a straightforward option too, the only thing to keep in mind is non-genuine boots are likely to be much worse quality rubber and need replacing about 10x as often.

I'm running a greddy style plenum with stock throttle body on my rb30 (rb25 series 2 head) stagea, it is making 400kw through that. There are plenty of ways to spend money on the car, you don't need to change the intake you have for 600hp