Duncan

yeah looked like he came down straight on the edge of the barrier....like you said, lucky...

haha too late I guess, but the trick is actually just that old rubber (and silicone to a lesser extent) seizes on. twist it to break that seal and then they slide off easy. if you just yank on it they can be very tight (and smash knuckles when they come off...)

Holy shit, see what you mean! good to see this series up and running....

well it might be a bit late, but to answer your question, possibly yes. In many sup regs cars which are not registered need a log book. And a log book needs a CAMS certified cage. Instead of generic interweb advice, I'd check with the clubs you intend to run with.

I think you need a refund, and get it done somewhere else. BTW congratulations, this time your R31 has morphed into a 240K

I'd call them and ask. front toe looks strange/very uneven and rear toe is definitely not correct, you could not drive it like that. might be user error, machine not calibrated properly or even no alignment done on the rear really surprised they gave you a sheet looking like that, it is definitely not correct

Might be four different blokes working there

+1 That's where I go when I feel like going to a brakes shop. Matt knows his shit

The part number is silicone sealant

This is an awesome event, I've done it a couple of times. I can't make it this year because I'll be down in Vic, but I'm pretty sure Neil's running.

Actually the Productivity Commission report explicity recommended removal of restrictions on importing cars under 5 years old from 2018 when the local manufacturers shut. Geoff from Prestige made the point that the entrenched interests who currently get to charge monopoly prices will do everything possible to stop us getting cheaper cars: http://us4.campaign-archive2.com/?u=785a84e1e4c70bea6ac88ed68&id=e5e13929e1&e=e6437996df

Holy Shit, that car reminds me of buster!

good point, and well made.

I cut out a whole bunch of wires inside the inner guards. think most stuff still works OK?

Its called "f**k I forgot that f**king metal plate again". probably the same across all RBs as well, so VL commodore would also suit

Brand new wide band controller for sale. Full details here: http://www.wbo2.com/2c0/default.htm Cost me $230, selling for $180, get a bargain! All you need to add for a full o2 sensor setup is a cable, sensor and display for about $250 all up.

I've got the cargo blind for sale out of my Stagea....I've had it out of the car for a while because I've been lugging stuff, so I figured I'd better pass it on $100 delivered in Sydney or Canberra metro, sorry no postage the damn thing is big! Also comes with a genuine rear cargo net

The cams fuel rule applies to all speed events including super sprints and hillclimbs, from schedule A 11. save for 1st Category automobiles, be fitted with a bulkhead constructed from a flame- and liquid-proof material. This bulkhead shall effectively seal the cockpit from the fuel tank or re-fuelling system. If the material is clear it shall be a minimum of 6mm thick; It's not like everyone follows this fully, but it is pretty clear. I've never seen an AASA rulebook but the scrutineers generally want the same as cams rules.

CAMS is crystal clear that the entire fuel system must be SEALED from the cabin. I run the surge tank under the car for that reason. I've also seen Perspex boxes in the boot to do the same. Well, and to make sure I don't die a horrible fiery death. At least not due to a fuel leak in the cabin

that's pretty cool shell...we need more guilt toy types on here, good to see him back. Anthony I've got a spare shroud for short term loan (will need it back in a few weeks), let me know if I should bring it down next week.

DOT 3, 4 and 5.1 brake fluids are all compatible with each other. DOT 5 apparently is not compatible but I've never come across it. In the olden days, the higher number was meant to mean better performance (ie higher boiling point) but some of the best brake fluids now days are DOT 4.

yep, clutches don't just slip because they are worn. They also slip if they get too hot (probably what happened here) or if you have too much torque for the clamping pressure. BTW if the thrust bearing was noisy change it while it's all apart. cheap and quick fix when it's opened up

top advice...you'll get the right valved shocks at the right price....plenty on here are happily running these. I've had mine for about 8 years, still going strong.

fark you post fast! I'd put anything in a roady, I use some generic ATF in my stagea's xfer case. For track/race use I've had good result with the transmax

awesome...you beat me to it So, assuming you dropped the gearbox oil it currently has nothing in it....better get it filled. And you need auto trans oil in the transfer case not gear oil, so you need to drop and replace that too