Duncan

BTW I think Paul's car looks fantastic So between this one, Ben's R32 and I think there is one other R32 it should looks like a Nissan racing re-union, love it. Once they stop pandering to the sooky Porsche drivers and let R32 into classics I reckon we will see a few more done the same way.

+1! And I hear the crossing last night was pretty bad...hope all the cars and people made it undented.

hey at least you know what the issue is so you can get it sorted. m35-ers, is it correct the 350z brakes fit?

no, but that is a k10 not k11....the bz11 is going fine. interested that you are going to run a GTR turbo on it, that's what I was thinking too for the super-turbo. will be interesting to see how it goes. what is the capacity, 1300cc?

Thanks everyone for the help/suggestions. Just a quick update, I've confirmed the PFC works OK in another car so I'm going to go to work on the loom. I was hoping to get specifics about the mythical missing fuse, but in the absence of that I put 3 engine/ignition related fuses in which were missing, but no luck.

Well, the best plan would be to swap the car out for a stagea for the next 18 years If you are happy to work with getting a baby into the rear of a 2 door, looks into swapping your suspension with someone with a standard setup; that will be by far the cheapest and an easy swap since someone always wants to change their standard stuff for something more hectic.

I like your style

The "80s Nissan history" force is strong in this one.

Yep it really sounds like you have the wrong disc for the caliper, ie the offset of the disc to the hub is incorrect. If it is out by a mm or 2 and I couldn't return/replace the discs I would space it out with a washer (in fact the d2 kits come with shims for that purpose)

I'm hope I didn't recommend anything too exotic for a street car; probably the Motul RBF600 which is often cheaper from bike shops.

Exactly, you don't want to change the master cylinder size unless you are looking for a different result....just relace or rebuild the standard one.

just work from their catalogue, and get a couple of quotes from local resellers. sp toolkits are here http://www.sptools.com/en/product-list-2014/tool-kits-en-2-3-4/#ty;pagination_contents;/en/product-list-2014/tool-kits-en-2-3-4/ most of my stuff is kincrome supplied by a local auto one, but you could also order them thru bunnings (lowest price guarantee). I'm not a tool brand whore but didn't want cheap either (broken tools cause ouchies).

Yep, Matt at Racebrakes in Wetherill Park. Knows his stuff and will probably have the rebuild kit in stock

well, it may not be the FFP, it doesn't have an coolant does it? the best way to sort this sort of thing is a radiator pressure test; any mechanic should be able to do it free or cheap. It will confirm if there is a leak, and you can often hear exactly where the leak is coming from. small leaks are generally radiator cap faulty, pinhole in the radiator (what I just had)

personally I would not buy a kit with AF tools, unless you use them for something. Try and find the same sort of size without the AF and save a bit. I put together a set of the stuff I needed in EVA and its been great compared to having everything thrown in drawers loose. BTW like Zeb said you may well find physical stores can match or better prices if you can pick up; they have good margins on those kits.

actually I took poetic license because I only made it to murwullimbah/tweed heads (figured that was close enough ) but i'll call you for a beer next time I'm in town

yeah I did swap the ECCS relay for the HICAS relay from the boot with no change. But I don't think it's that because pin 1 of the relay never gets 12v so it could never work. I just don't understand how it can be a wiring issue when the ECU loom is all standard....but that is none the less what it seems

totally agree, I love R31 Stageas. good luck with your plans

have you got a pic? do you just mean the bolts are too long and go through the hub and then all the way to the disc? If so, replace with a shorter bolt (any bolt shop should have something to match, even Bunnings might), just make sure it is grade 8.8 or higher

I'm not familiar with stock rb30 pistons, but stock rb26 pistons have 05U and a dot indicating front. So if 67S20 is the end of a Nissan part number it seems likely they are standard. And therefore standard bore as well which is good

Did the timing belt (turns out it is from a Volkswagon Passat), water pump, cam and oil pump seals, idler and tensioner bearings for the second time (the engine has about 180,000klm on it now). It does use a bit of oil by now, the head in particular was not reco-ed when the rb30 was built so it has 300,000klm+ on it. Then loaded the kids into the back took it for a leisurely drive up to queensland for a week away. It's thirsty and noisey with that exhaust, but it didn't miss a beat all trip

sorry I can't help with the auto wiring; but I am pretty sure the black box replaces the earlier gold box as the 4wd sensor (pic is bad, but I think that's it). If so you need to keep it, but reposition it anywhere else available under the console that is flat/level....min is right towards the back of the console

well...that didn't lead to a load of responses. I guess out come the side cutters

I've got a china 3; works fine (Win XP only) but the factory software is terrible to use

Thanks guys. I did see the generic info in Paul's guide (which is excellent BTW) However I'm looking for more specific info or experience if possible. Here is the pic from Paul's doc: There is also troubleshooting info on EN-311 of the R33 Engine Manual (translated by JPNZ) There should be constant power on pin 58. The ECU then earths pin 16 to ECCS relay pin 2 (and ECCS relay pin 1 should get power from the same 30A fuse as ECU pin 16). When that happens the ECCS relay then has power (from the same source as ECCS pin 1 and ECU pin 16) which turns on the ECU via pins 49 and 59 and 109. And I understand all that complexity is so that the ECU can turn itself off after the ignition turns off; this allows both the standard ECU and PowerFC to write back changes to ROM before shutting down (and this is why when I pull the kill switch to stop the car that the PowerFC doesn't save changes) So; that all sounds good; except I can't find power at ECU pin 58, ECCS pin 1, 3 or 5 at any time. This does not match the manual. Engine manual EN-312 shows there should be continuity between ECCS 3 and ECU 49/59. I have no continuity there, but instead have continuity from pin 5 to ECU 49/59. So, it does not match the manual there either. So given all that; I was hoping someone might have direct experience; perhaps the Series 2 R33 wiring is a little different to the manual. Does anyone know the location of the "30A" fuse shown on the diagram above? EN-312 calls it F/L-6 which I would expect to find in the boot next to the battery (BTW I have checked all fusible links and fuses in the boot and driver's side dash, all are fine). So given all that; if there is no other specific info I will wire up a fused 12v source to ECU 58 and ECCS 1 and ECCS 3 (not 5 due to the continuity difference) and see if that brings it all to life. I'm away for a week so am hoping for some tips before I have to start cutting