Duncan

The specific reasons I suggested them in this case are: * OP has a complex issue that needs to be checked out thoroughly, so their engineering approach rather than just chuck whatever on should help * I've found them to be honest about what problems exist, even if the customer doesn't want to know bad news I'm sure there are places that will bolt on stuff and do a tune cheaper, and faster

Its definitely not factory. You'd have to check but the yellow wire is something in the key (so see when it has 12v). The blue wire would have been a switched version of whatever the yellow wire was (eg if yellow is IGN, then blue was something that can be switched on when IGN is on). Whatever it is, it is now inop if nothing is plugged into it.

I'd suggest calling Unigroup, they have a lot of experience with these, access to reliable fabricators etc. Of course it will cost but at least you can trust what they tell you

I've always just put that plug in dry (ie no sealant), it is a tapered thread so do it up "fairly" tight but not VFT and it should be fine

I think that will requires @jamesnorman93 to check their link, or alternatively someone else with time to run the PDF through an OCR tool

So, I'm not a diff swapsies specialist, but I am pretty sure the 300zx ran an R220 not and R200 like the C34 Stagea, so I think it is of no use to you. As you said, all you need to do is get the centre swapped in the diff you have, which might be best done by a diff specialist. The current centre is probably desirable to someone to track so an easy path might be to swap your mechanical centre for someone with a standard centre (which is a viscous LSD, and almost certainly won't have any limited left). The only thing you have to watch swapping R200 internals between diffs is that the number of splines on your car's stub axles has to match the donor car, or you need the centre+stub axles and make sure they have the same number and pattern of bolt holes as your rear axles. You swap your current ratio onto the new centre so you don't have to worry about matching the front. Alternatively, centres like the Nismo pro are much gentler (and have adjustable "tightness") so you could buy on of those from somewhere like Jesse Streeter or Nengun (noting it may cost you 1234% extra in tariffs by the time it lands)

no, you aren't, but good to see you pop by

In that case it is probably stock. It lives in the navigator side footwell behind the plastic trim just in front of the a pillar.

This. I'm confused by the whole discussion. The only reason you would have a car with e85 only if it was track use and you only ever used e85. All other use cases you add a flex fuel sensor, do the flex tune (you only need to do a couple of % and then interpolate the rest) and then you put whatever the hell you feel like including a mix in the tank and it just works. Want a long drive? fill with 98 Want max zoom? fill with e85 Got a half tank of 98 then find e85 somewhere? Throw it in.

Sounds good....do you have a dyno run for it? Also, sounds like you should get an Ecutek tune shortly to make the most of the hard changes.

That rusty picture gives me nightmares. I can't believe it would not have been cheaper to put plastic tanks in all R32s...... And yes, I meant the factory mount is a kind of baffle...it slides into (and sometimes easily out of) a plastic mount glued to the tank floor

Looks like they've been through a few versions of the kit; that is not the one I had trouble with (it had the level sender attached to baffles on the floor, the one you linked the level sender is hung from the hat). One obvious point about that kit is it has no baffles at all, not even the factory setup (although it looks like you can retain the factory setup if you want). Not sure if that will be an issue or not, the good news is it looks like you can get the pump nice and low in the tank, but that doesn't help if the fuel is all sloshing to one side of a wide flat tank

That's the thing....the basics of fuel and ignition are deceptively simple.....getting it to behave like factory in all conditions after airflow mods is way more complex. Newer cars like the V37 are all about modifying the standard ECU which is about a billion times more complex than they were 20 years ago, with a bunch of parameters affecting others

nah, sounds too easy

BTW, don't forget to make sure your fuel tank is full before attempting any work on the fuel system. Ideally in the middle of winter when the fuel is about 5o as well.

No, it is still quiet enough with the interior in place, no worse than factory (I think, its been a while....) Modern pumps are pretty quiet compared to the old school 040 etc which run loader than the motor

I don't know, but Nissan often supersede parts with other parts that are compatible. Using your VIN you can check here: https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Otherwise, if it is not an official supersession but physically fits you would need a bit of luck for someone to post their experience, or just send it (ie, if it bolts in the right place, has the right pulley or you can change the right pulley on, and the outlets are in the right place, just use it) Finally...unless your current pump has internal damage, you should be able to get it rebuilt (new bearings and seals) by any half decent mechanic; bearings and seals are readily available

Maybe, but this is a VR not a VQ. I'd talk to Just Jap as they are the local AMS importer and have a workshop, otherwise Tunehouse are the Ecutec Australian distributor and said they had modified a few of these

Sorry, I wasn't very clear.....just that the standard injectors are apparently good over 600rwhp/450rwkw which you won't get to on standard turbos anyway.....they are much better sized from factory than we are used to in RBs.

Its a VR30DDTT, LPFP is Low pressure fuel tank (in pump) and HPFP is High pressure / mechanical fuel pump. Injector size doesn't seem to be a limit on that engine

Well, as long as you have the flex fuel kit you can use any ethanol mix. Also FYI the pump e85 varies between about e70 and e85 across winter and summer from most pumps

I'm not aware of e30 in Australia, but I'm pretty sure e85 is still around. You really want a setup with an ethanol sensor so you can run any mix of ethanol depending on what you can access. Fuel Check NSW app shows 14 site in sydney metro with e85. What are you adding, will you put in bigger turbs too? Apparently the wastegates are pretty small and can't bypass enough as you run more boost. I'm sticking to 1.3 bar with 98 on the standard turbos with my tune on advice from the tuner, and boost drops significantly in the top end; apparently larger turbos with larger wastegates are needed to get anywhere meaningful from there.

That probably needs a specific thread....and if you want to run different ethanol mixes you will need the ethanol sensor and wire it into the ECU (which has different requirements depending on the ECU year apparently)

first-ish start.mp4 So yes, it started and sounds excellent....good times. One leak from the oil cooler fitting but otherwise all good for both oil and coolant. I didn't get time to set the timing or check the idle control, and it needs a new battery, but it sounds awesome and runs fine with a bit of throttle. And obviously that power steering belt needs a bit more tension.

Next pic will probably bring back Charlie's PTSD So yes, pump is back out. I hooked the fuel return up to a hose into a container to flush out the first litre or 2, jumped the Fuel Pump relay and.......nothing.... Turns out the pump I had pulled out, checked, cleaned everything....was dead. I hadn't actually hooked 12v to it to check it worked before I put it back in. Anyway...Neil had kept the old pump which still worked, so I just swapped it back in. All good, flushed the lines out, ready to start