Duncan

It is, and you do. Everything points at it being a series 2 non NEO rb25. Of course, unknown internals so you don't know how hard you can push the setup. If you can get hold of a borescope you could check the top of the pistons for stock or aftermarket markings, but that still won't tell you want rods you have which is arguably more important for higher power

Re trying to identify what it might (or might not be) a bit better, can you post up some good clear pics of the plenum and where it is bolted to the throttles/intake manifold/whatever is there. An rb26 inlet manifold does not bolt straight onto an rb25 head due to different port placement/shapes, so there is either some sort of adapter plate, or it is a 26 head

Before worrying about the potential engine swap, you should confirm the car is eligible for import. If you are genuinely the owner overseas and can prove it, you might be able to bring it in under the Personal Import laws which are quite open, otherwise as it is >30 years old that might be a channel too. Each type of import has different rules which apply. You don't need any outside paperwork, it is all issued by Australia or NSW including import approvals, identity check, insurance etc etc

well, here's hoping it is off to a good home, looks like the new owner got a steal

I don't know the answer, but my uneducated guess is this will not work (or, not as you want it to). I would wire the SLD into VSS1, I bet that is what the limiter uses However, I also bet the ECU compares VSS1 and VSS2 and throws and error if they are different. Best suggestion I can make is wire it into VSS1 and see how you go, I guess the error will only appear above 180 when then SLD is active. If it appears at lower speeds put a switch into the SLD earth (or power supply) and only turn it on when you need to go over 180.

To add to that very useful summary, even in the race/rally r32 gtr I have good quality, new(ish) poly bushes everywhere because that is what rules require, and the handling is excellent. Of course, the car doesn't do many klm but I'd still expect poly bushes to last better in road use than sphericals (especially as I have a couple of klm of dirt road to stuff sphericals up) I would change the front upper arms to spherical if I was allowed to, because the poly bushes flog out often, but otherwise new bushes (and ball joints) and a good alignment can make a world of difference

lol, 15 years ago! good searching You can convert a flare type end to a banjo type end if: 1. The caliper has a machined surface for the banjo to seal against, pretty sure the stock calipers do not 2. The olive inside the caliper that the flare seals against is removable, if so it would just pop out with a small pick of some sort...of course the olive might be machined in and not removable depending on the caliper

Welcome to SAU Alex, do you have any pics of your car?

I think the pic in the first post is another car, and post 7 is OP's car with standard arms and swaybar swaybar swaybar. I can't tell what brand the silver coilovers are, and even if I could I don't know whether the spring rate is OK, if you can find a brand on the shocks and numbers on the springs that might help. Also, if you can measure the ride height from centre of your wheel to the guard that will help with advice too as handling suffers if ride height is too low

sadly, pics no work. that car must have spent a lot of time in a cryo bubble

swaybar swaybar swaybar swaybar swaybar anyway OP, what is currently in your car, are they factory shocks and sway bar? Any sign anything else has been changed under there over the years? And as Murray said....what are effect you looking to change

Congratulations on your find Did you mean it has 6k miles or was that a typo? Firstly, keep in mind some movement of the shifter is normal...it is a long rod hanging out of a box bolted to the engine. Having said that there are 2 next places to look: 1. Transmission and engine mounts. If these are worn or broken the shifter will move around more. They are reasonably easy to source and replace on a hoist, and possible but uncomfortable to replace car stands 2. On the bottom of the shifter there is a nylon cup that sits over shifter's ball end. If this is worn or broken the shifter will move around more than it should (but will still shift OK). That is a cheap part and requires removal of centre console, rubber shifter hole covers and a circlip in the gearbox shifter hole to remove the shifter. Re maintenance, as with any new import you should change all the fluids including transmission when you get it; never trust the seller and previous owners to have done the right thing. I am pretty sure R34 GTT is the same as earlier big box transmissions, so use any good quality GL4 75w90 trans fluid if it is shifting well (if it is hard to shift due to synchro wear, redline shockproof lightweight will keep it alive a bit longer before rebuild is required)

That summary is useful (if right!), I was going to say that numbers won't be sequential, they will reset when certain arbitrary changes happened in production.

You might be able to find the engine number (if about it hasn't been painted over....) the prefix should be rb25 or rb20

TBH it would be a miracle if someone had that exact information.... Lengthening or shortening a tailshaft depending on gearbox/diff/chassis etc is pretty common, you really just need to fit it up once the box is in place and measure it

Glad to hear your return trip worked OK! Yes, the bonnet release is held by 2 self tapping bolts through the dash and into a bracket behind. As such it also helps keep the dash in place. And yes, small wind deflectors used to be pretty common, and the factory double sided tape is a nightmare to remove when new, and worse so 30 years later. You need some solvent like metho or a eucalyptus oil, a scraper of some sort and patience. On my stagea I got the tape off but damaged the hard trim underneath in many places scraping too hard. You might find the seat is a rego issue too (not sure on current vic rules), because a fixed back stops people exiting the rear seat; might require registration as a 2 seater or replacement of the driver's seat with a tilting one

what size was the return line?

All the best with the new job! Seems mechanicing for race teams is a bit like joining Qantas because you like travel; they take advantage of your enthusiasm. But still, should be an amazing way to pick up skills and good habits. Also, the shed looks great including the covered area out the front....just need to fill it with more tools and benches now

I think painting (or better, powercoating the plenum and turbo inlet pipes re pretty common, although in your car's case putting them standard colour might suit I can't find a full dressed pic of our race car's motor, but here it is half together in yellow/purple to match the exterior colour

You certainly should Is the capacity difference in vq25 vs vq35 due to bore as well as stroke?

well, to check fuel pressure all you need is a gauge and a 8mm joiner with a gauge port in the inlet fuel line; if it stalls at idle when hot you can open the bonnet and check pressure at that time; the fuel pump is a potential cause for what you are describing but it could also be wiring to the pump getting hot. You haven't mentioned that the factory fuel flow control on the fuel pump earth is removed. So either way, it is worth running a suitably sized and fused wire from the battery to pin 30 in a new relay in the boot. Use the ECU trigger wire into the standard fuel relay to pin 86. Earth relay pin 85 and the Fuel Pump negative (nice big wire for the latter too). Run relay pin 86 pin to Fuel Pump +. That will remove multiple possible fuel pump wiring issues in a 30+ year old car

I've been running a 525 for years with the standard hat and FPR in the stagea (mine has a 32 gtr fuel rail and stagea and 32 hat and tank setup are the same) without an issue with base fuel pressure. You said when you disconnected the return it is OK, did you do so at the fuel rail or the fuel hat? Either way I'd be looking for blockages or in the case of the tank kinks in the lines downstream Note I did however have an issue with the current required for the 460 melting the fuel hat.

Unfortunately this is a bit like arguing if you prefer blondes or brunettes....you will get people who strongly hold either view. My observation is I have had good results racing on MCA golds (spring led) but personally find Gary's approach of lighter springs and heavier bars is more predictable over mixed or rough surfaces like in rally (or an Australian road)

Actually I think you will probably still run into an issue as the consult connector is unusual and most workshops won't have that available (everything modern is OBD). It might require a trip to a friendly nissan dealer who does have the right connector (but may not be interested in helping). Alternative is remove the airbag globe and disconnect the airbag computer, if that is legal

I agree with GTSBoy's earlier post, an increasing missfire when hot is a good description of an issue I've previously had with the ignitor module. I understand these days you can get coil kits which do away with it (noting you have just spend on the loom and coils which is a pain).