Duncan

It's very unlikely there were any modifications other than replacing any worn bearings and seals, and adding one or more additional plates for a quicker response. I'd be interested in specifics if something else was done. The plate replacement is very similar to reshimming the standard diff in process, and is equally effective; there is nothing wrong with the factory design except they are all a bit worn out after 20 years.

Yep exactly what sick_r31 said. Just remove the vanes from the rear stage only, put everything back together, and cap the rear outlet with an appropriate size bolt and copper washer.

Removing the vanes from the rear pump stage is easy and will work fine. Mine has been running that way for 8 years.

cool post you should get out to a couple of race meets (cams and mra), most people will be only too happy to show/talk to a new owner; and it lets you see what people are doing instead of just what people who talk on the internet think (imagine if you tried to learn to set up a race skyline based on SAU posts....)

Excellent choice Mark, Chris has been getting some very cheap racing out of his. Looking forward to seeing how it goes

umm actually I spotted you guys on the way past too, was hoping that wasn't what was going on.....sorry to hear

yeah the rules vary from state to state (and country for Bob!) too. In NSW you can tow to whatever the manufacturer specifies (it used to be based on car weight but that is kind of a silly rule). Since all Stageas came in under SEVS or RAWS, the manufacturer is whoever complied it. So really the legal NSW limit should be whatever a compliance shop is willing to say it is (and they then take the liability if they over estimate). Also keep in mind the tow bar needs to be engineered as well for a given load if you want to ensure it is legal

Yep Eric we always drill those out a fair bit larger.

I personally wouldn't take a plugged tyre on the race track, would be fine for road use though (in fact one of the cima's tyres needed a plug the other day). plug and retire them to road use...

absolutely don't worry about the compression until the rings are bedded in. and for what it's worth the motor should be warm too, as well as a healthy battery (which they normally aren't by the time a motor's been pulled out, rebuilt, and put back in)

lol must get there one day. (or not)

let me know if it's not sorted

That's the only way I've ever done it, and it seems to work fine. I be surprised if any "kits" were anything more than a couple of extra plates for the standard housing.

I love your style Hugh

when you say you hear a rattling but only up hill, does it stop immediately if you take your foot off the accelerator? And is it more likely to happen in high gears than low gears?

r32s all had 2 way mechanical diffs...it was only the vspec r33 that had an active diff (and a handful of gts-ts)

well it doesn't necessarily mean that....the "gauge" on the outside is just an indication it has taken a big hit, not a guarantee that it is farked. But in this case...if you have a red sensor, and if fwd doesn't work....then it might be fair to guess it is dead

Great to see Aussies taking it to them on their home soil.... well done

and yes 32 gtr and 33 gtst calipers and rotors are interchangeable (they are 2mm different width from factory). 34 gtst calipers and rotors must be used together, they are different from all other brake sizes

it's not an issue. I've been running m12 bolts (without a sleeve) for over 5 years. bolts clamp things together, they don't locate them

haha you're an addict Hugh!

It's surprisingly straightforward.....there was a 15yo rule, and it wasn't changed until 2005 which allowed plenty of 15yo GTRs into the country, in fact they are definitely part of the reason it was changed. The law then became pre 1/1/89, so cars that were eligible to import under the old scheme are not eligible now. In addition to that, under the old SEVS rules you could import brand new models (same as RAWS allows) if the manufacturer was not importing them. Scuderia Veloce brought in a handful of 89 cars under sevs (4 from memory) under SEVS before Nissan started selling them in 90 and 91. And once Nissan stopped selling them in 93 and 94, they became eligible under SEVS (and later RAWS) again. A few R35s came in under the same rules prior to Nissan releasing them

yeah no need for a lot of camber at the rear, you just end up with traction issues, even in a reasonably low powered car. between 1 and 2 degrees is enough. BTW great price on the toe kit.....the "race' stuff is hundreds of dollars for the same thing.

OK...pirtek then. I guess the fitting cracked because it was too tight, remember that NPT is a tapered thread. Also, are you sure it is NPT not BSP? they are dangerously similar....

sorry just looked at the other 2 pics....they are not all the same. what do you need? and for that matter how did the old one break?!?