Duncan

hmm if a barb fitting was sufficient, every pirtek has them in brass....but looks like you need a female dash fitting of some sort on the other end. looks pretty specialist really....not sure how much luck you'd have in Canberra. Earls in Sydney would have probably have something in stock

Interesting that some are having trouble with temperature. my cooling setup is standard and even with the rb30 etc it never gets warm, let alone hot. I wonder if all the hot cars are auto, and the heat is coming from the auto trans not the engine?

+1, Jeff @ BSM, or Geoff at SSS are the guys who have had to use them. you probably already know, but a gtr does not breathe very well through such a small straw.....you have a big task if you want to be competitive in IPRA with a GTR

I reckon 180kw of fwd would be heaps of fun...don't bag it until you try something similar the big questions for fun are power, weight and suspension, not just the wheels that are driven

I remember a B-man

yeah it's a common problem - the gearbox x member bolts are m8 fine not coarse thread and many cars have been stuffed before they get here

Great to see a datto on board I have heard about not towing in 5th, but I am not sure why. I've always towed in 5th, don't need to downchange but the rb30 probably helps with mid range. I think the real issue for fuel economy is short gearing....its doing about 2500revs in 5th at 110 which is sky high.

great to hear it aligned up properly....have fun in SA.

plenty of people will tell you a Stagea can't tow.................people who have never towed with a stagea. Like you I found it slow and low standard, but with some firmer rear springs and more power it has been great. The only issue I have is the poor fuel economy.

no need to hire a garage guys, that's for the holywood/supercar/superlap stylers. car ports are plentiful and free.

interesting, maybe the approval was not the old SEVS, not 15 year old. Because the whole point about the 15 year / Pre 88 rule, is that the car does not have to meet ADRs or be complied. I am not sure you will be able to switch it over to REVS compliance if that is not how it was imported either.

I'm not sure how to confirm if they were ever opened but I have no reason to doubt Gary. Certainly I have 2 sets of externally identical shocks in 2 different cars (the race car and the stagea) and they have noticeably different damping (yes, the race car is softer...) I will probably get the stagea ones rebuilt in the next year or two because they have almost 200000klm on them. I may be able to get confirmation that they were modified.

Interestingly, the old scheme is still actually open, they just changed the date backwards to 1988. I am not an expert but I believe that since you have import approval for it, you should just be able to register it with a blue slip etc.

I'm very happy with my Bilstein setups (race car and stagea), both were specifically setup for the purpose by a suspension engineer with good skyline experience. If you come across any of the Sydneykid revolved Bilsteins for road use grab them. Having said that, the DMS that Matt posted above are the bargain of the century, so if you have $2k grab them now. They are an excellent setup, particularly for tarmac rally but would also be suitable either as is, or with minor revalving for road use. Also fully supported and rebuildable in Aus. Unless you need to go cheap, stay away from the bottom of the market, they are almost always poor quality twin tube shocks and very hard springs. Yes you can lower your car and get hectic stance bro, but you will hurt your handling in most cases, not improve it.

Nas at Thornleigh has been doing engines for me for years, race and street car engines, most recently the ute. I've been very happy with quality and price.

Well congratulations, that means you are national champion

well I saw it today and it looked fine, just needs a white front bar. Can't see any reason it won't be at the sau nats next weekend.

good racing again. It was pretty busy at the start of race 1 and you did well to stay out of it...and also well done for not slamming the sprinter at the start of race 2. BTW are you sure the battery died in the same race you had an off

who has rugs these days anyway? in any case, imaweiner's posts have been removed as they seem to be even less on topic than normal.

Believe it or not...... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/302682-what-is-the-rarest-stag-part-you-have-or-seen

which torque controller, and what do you want it to do? I decided not to bother with one in the Stag because it already has enough (too much?) front wheel drive

lol damn rav4s. and echidnas. Justin the charging capacity limit is on the car side. It has 2 charging ports, the fast charger takes about 400v and charges the car in under an hour. However, Nissan recommend not fast charging frequently. So that leaves the Level 1/2 charging port. The charger in the garage support 6.6kw/h but the Leaf's Onboard Charger Controller only allows 3.3kw/h. (The 2013 model upped that to 6.6kw/h but the retrofit is not at all simple. The option I'm going to go for is adding a second charge controller as a slave to the standard one which will allow about 7kw/h total charging. A few guys in the states have them working but I'm not willing to go that far with a car with so much new technology until it is out of warranty.

Haven't bought a set for a while, and last time I did the Federals were definitely the thing to have for the money. But I see Harry's warning that they have changed for the worst since. I'd probably go Kumho V70A again, they worked well and didn't require me to sell drugs to fund them like yokos or dunlop.

Yeah I would stay away from them on a heavy car too...but plenty of light cars eg mx5 find they work well. And I assume he's not running 205/15s on a GTR

Just be a bit careful with that. I've been a redline user for years including in the race car and have been very happy (in particular it hid gearbox issues like crunchy synchros). However, a couple of years back they changed the formula to remove something bad (carcinogenic) and it has never been the same since. The main issue is it expands heaps when hot (which happens a lot in a race car) and so it comes out the gearbox breather...literally litres of it. I've used and was happy with the royal purple gearbox/diff oil for racing, but I would probably stick for motul for hard street use, or anything for light street use. Nulon has a good rep too but I haven't used it