Duncan

here is yokohama's opinion on safe tyre sizes for a given rim size. http://www.yokohamatire.com/tires_101/customizing/rim_wheel_width/ that shows the narrowest 45 profile tyre to run on a 10" rim is 255....a long way from 225. this discussion is kind of like someone saying "the thinner you are, the better you look". It is only true until it becomes dangerous. I have a real issue with people flippantly advising that something "fits fine" when it is downright dangerous. OP said he has 255/40/18 which yoko show as the narrowest tyre you can run on a 10" rim.

why would you say it "fits easily" when the wheel you fitted to the front was 1" narrower, and had a dangerously narrow tyre on it?

hahah see I am getting old. I remember when Time Attack was called a Supersprint, and when Drift was the Next Big Thing and had a national series. BTW is it also possible that the front shocks are for a GTR? Are they the same as GTST in R33s?

ECU talk may show if a sensor like CAS, TPS or AFM is showing abnormal readings, or no reading at all Switching parts is a better option if you can because it rules out everything with your part (that may not always be obvious just from the sensor reading)

I've never been a real fan of ruining the alignment and running too narrow (stretched) tyres just to fit a wheel. If you are going to run 235s an 8" wheel is sufficient and will fit much better.

that's what I was afraid of. 18x10+15 is for a GTR. I've never tried anything too aggressive on a GTST but the biggest I can think of is stock 33 GTR wheels which are 17x9

I'd stay away from a $20 ho.

umm my question is.....is your 33 a GTST or a GTR?

This thread is so popular they will probably commit to Season 2. Stinkypoo, I think swapping a few bits is the quickest way to work this one out

Do you have any driving talent you don't need? Price? If not, what about a gear knob, I need one for the ute.

yeah on that....servo trailers are almost always death traps. while you might use one to move something around town if you needed to, taking one on a long drive is likely to end in tears. they are heavy, often have bent axles/bad alignment, cheap tyres, unmaintained hubs etc etc. I have seen some that are brand new which would probably be OK if you are lucky to get in before some other mug bends it, but most of them are terrible.

anyway, the best thing you can do with brakes at the track is use them as little as possible just bleed the fluid beforehand and you will be fine unless you are overusing them

muahaha has fatz been working on the car? once was bad luck....but twice.....

haha good point....the quality has never quite been the same since they started manufacturing offshore from memory Roy had some trouble with whiteline bars on this 32

btw when you say you have to push it uphill to clutch start it, is that because your house is right at the bottom of a hill? because you can clutch start in reverse too. If you are careful (clutch and brake as soon as it fires) you can even do it in your driveway, it only takes a couple of klm/h to start a car. ecutalk should show most of your ecu values and voltages on a PC which can help with spotting a dodgy sensor like an AFM or TPS (by voltage) or even CAS (by seeing fluctuating voltages)

but not adjustable, right? that rules them out for me for track use.

what have you changed recently, what computer is it, and what boost are you running? generally, the standard c34 computer is very intolerant of extra boost. You say it seems to be boosting more in the low range then stopping, that is typical of the car getting more air than it likes and moving to the rich/retard part of the maps which makes it quickly loose power.

Buy what whiteline make for the car....those bars were specified by a suspension engineer who ran them in his own r32 gtst

Either way a set of rb30 forged pistons + correct CR rods are a good investment. Assembling an engine is a pretty simple case of following the instructions; the only trick is to clean everything super thoroughly (especially oil feeds). The important stuff is all done by the machine shop in getting bearing, piston and head clearances correct. Re a 250kw target, you will not get there with a standard turbo, it runs out of puff at no more than 200kw. Engine capacity doesn't matter; the turbo just can't flow enough air efficiently. I have about 250kw from my rb30 using a ebay t3 cheapy (although I have changed to a ball bearing core). It should still run acceptably on the standard computer, but I would not push it hard without checking it on a dyno first, you may find it strays into strange parts of the map compared to standard

Oh BTW definitely try clutch starting it! Worst outcome is you have to park it on the side of the road for a while

yeah interesting...seems like the basic checks have been done OK. it is a standard ECU right? plugging in a powerfc and hand controller might tell you more. The CAS can fail physically, as can the ignitor so it might be worth swapping both with known working ones. I am near Red HIll today but the stagea runs an r34 cas and no ignitor so I don't think I can help.

Hater

well...how did the beer party go?

well yes, they are good...but they are also damn heavy

I don't suppose you saw my Cima as well did you? It's meant to be ready to pick up next week