Duncan

makes sense....I'm sold on the idea

Fixed now....I just got 70 emails including the one for this thread. Thanks

DBA5000 have worked well for me.

haha true....I guess I just can't pay the sort of attention for 4hrs straight that the cruise unit can

Didn't get notified of this response either, but I am receiving other emails (non SAU)

I haven't got any email notifications since 12.30am Saturday morning. Is the email server misbehaving?

somewhere between 6-8 sessions of 3 laps. ie about 40min of track time

How odd.....seems like it would be harder to do that wrong that it would be to do it right. I'm no engine expert (I only bolt them together), but I suspect 180 degrees out will be no issue in terms of damage. Each piston will just be on the opposite stroke to what the ECU/Cam expect.

Kel and I are in for a cruise and a feed

Yep it sounds good from that perspective. What I was wondering is whether having a bed that is effectively uneven (assuming the rear wheels remain on the dropped part) makes it hard to push on/adjust location/hold while tying down etc etc.

sorry for the slow response; I am not sure what his area is, but he is mobile. I'm sure he could do it an Erskine Park, he did the original install for me in the carpark at work one day!

That is beaut, and a good price. How do you find the beaver tail, I've never really tried one?

haha great work the first race is pretty confronting, but it leads to a serious addiction That reverse grid was pretty busy...and you were maybe too nice

as long as a Toyota doesn't come and take it out

no...we need this: ]

haha an 86kw FWD hatchback on a racetrack. umm no thanks. not to mention only getting about 3 laps before it needs a recharge

w00t! go Leaf.

sadly motorsport is almost always about tyres....and more specifically whoever is willing to spend the most on tyres

no definitely not. in fact almost no motorsport events do which makes the SAU NSW days a great thing. but ultimately it's just a more raw experience. you can choose whether to go slow enough to be totally safe or fast enough to be dangerous...it's nice to have choices.

oh yep I agree with 6 and 8 too. I straightened that number plate so many times, and a long trailer can scrape on surprisingly small angles. but I don't really agree with the galvinised thing, just paint it every few years. gal also makes it harder to modify/repair because you need to remove the coating before welding. one other thing I forgot...if you have rails or mud guards make sure they are low! so many trailers you can't open the car door once it is on which means you are dukes of hazard through the window all the time.

haha has harry inspired you? I think an auto would be very frustrating. BTW anyone thinking about it, a hillclimb is about as cheap and simple to enter as motorsport can be. it is unfortunately a little more risky than a race track because the trees don't stand back very far.... kel almost shit herself when the brand new z left the track at SDMA sideways (look on her face afterwards was priceless)

Is it just me, or is it cold tonight?

really good tips from warps, I'd add a few other things. Keep the bed as low as possible. No matter what other tricks come into it, a low bed makes every car easier to load. We used small diameter wheels and tyres, and low axles, to keep the bed down. The higher you are the harder it is to load low cars, and the harder it is when you inevitably end up pushing a car on one day. Design a good mounting system in. The best way is chain links at the front and straps through hooks at the rear....that will ensure it never comes off but allows you to tighten it down nicely. There are some good over wheel tie down options too. But keep in mind not every car will be able to roll when it goes on (eg after you roll it 7 times off a cliff, or after a wheel is torn off. of if it is a shell on the way to sims metal) Put a cheapy super cheap winch on it. They live in the sun and die regularly so don't bother spending on something quality. Think about onboard storage. Spare wheel (or even better 2), tiedown, basic tools, hand cleaner and rag storage (invaluable), jerry cans, spare tyre rack. On the other hand, don't put too much general storage in because a trailer is almost always not secure (eg don't store expensive tools on board). Also depending how serious the events are, consider how you might secure the jerry can filler necks from silly buggers. These days, wire in a reversing camera on the rear of the trailer as well as the car to make life easy Get a big jockey wheel. Make sure it is well painted and that the wiring is a quality install and well protected. I've also lived with a cheapy that was fixed up over the years, it ended up working OK in the end but it was called the death trailer for a reason for a lot of it's life. In the end it took 2 new axles and suspension to get it to tow right, we spent twice the up front cost fixing and maintaining it. I'm buying new next time. And finally....I agree....don't lend it. People abuse stuff that is not theirs, the more you think you can trust them the worse it is. I lent mine to the owner of a workshop in seven hills (no cost), it came back with a tyre that didn't hold air, gouged rim and bent axle, but "no way, nothing happened".

I surely will soon enough....I finished running in the new motor for the ute today so getting her running is now #1 job. Plus, I thought SDMA was great fun.

Good to hear from you Chris....I hope the shop move was a move up. Is there at ETA to see craved on the road again? I reckon it's the only car with a build longer than one of mine