Duncan

Great to hear you went well at SDMA Mik. Was it fun as well?

Nope, never tested it. I am just relying on the specifications published by the guys who defined the SAE standard. If you have noticed a difference either the SAE guys don't know what they were specifying, or the oil was non-compliant because the specification is exactly about a certain amount of oil going through a certain sized restrictor at the specified temperature

0w40 and 10w40 are exactly the same thickness once the engine is warm. the first number only applies below about 50 degrees which is about the first 2 minutes of your drive. What did Nissan actually recommend for these motors?

Yeah CAMS do that too, through their Ignition program. But no govt. funding of course so it is tiny

whether we like the policy or not, you can't ignore the fact that under 20 driver deaths have fallen by 42% (35 to 20) since that law came in.

ahh farking internet knows everything! I thought that feature was broken. It's really just a reminder I am getting too damn old (and grumpy) Anyway, thanks ....and now off to dinner

yeah its been pretty much all house, no car in the last 2 years. the only real car achievement was the rebuild for the ute motor.

haha I want the march too. it's been off the road too long but it is still not next off the blocks 1. get ute out of garage 2. get race car running....needs clutch unwelded from flywheel and an engine swap (current one runs great but has crack in block near water pump that needs welding) 3. get stagea reverse lights and knock sensors working...it has some electrical challenges from the rb30 swap 4. finish march motor and get it running again too many projects

dumb f**king nissrenault idea. kind of like the m35 I don't know of any good gtrs for sale, although I do know where to get an excellent cube. honestly, if you are not in a rush you can just never beat importing yourself for value. even with the yen off 10% from 3 months ago when I bought the cima, it is still soooo cheap for what you get

Please stay on topic or I will be forced to whack you with the ban stick, newbie

bluebirds are cool, esp the weird jap models. But then I like pulsars too. actually I like pretty much everything Nissan has ever built; except tiida of course there was no redeeming feature in that car. zeb are you coming back to the world of cool? I'd be a bit worried about this, sounds they modified it all the time "Last Modified 15/07/2013"

factory flywheel bolts have a 19mm head, and factory clutch cover bolts have a 12mm head

So Dan, I rang Brad yesterday and got his voicemail which clearly said that his business was closed for "personal reasons" until the 28th. Do you think that he has stolen your money and is avoiding you, or do you think he has a genuine reason and that 2 rollcages sitting on a pallet may not be the biggest priorities in his life at this moment?

Well that is painful luck, but turbo failure regularly follows engine failure....the turbo bearings have even tighter clearances than the engine ones so they very commonly fail at the same time due to either the falling oil pressure when the engine bearing fails, or due to the metal that gets everywhere.

good work getting this group buy together, it can be a really frustrating trying to deal with any supplier delays when you are just trying to help out the community as a favour.

That I can answer, it keeps running fine. DJRIFT (Damo) is the guy to answer the tricky questions

But ACT isn't a state

and the more power you have, the more traction you need, so the softer the spring should be. But I can't see why you would expect much traction with 500+kw on street tyres on typically variable street surfaces. I'd always assumed that if you want that much power you *don't* want traction....so put some stiff springs in

The thread I locked yesterday started as a recommendation of where to get bolt on spacer and had become an argument about whether time attack is racing, it was nowhere near on topic and was becoming a meaningless argument and likely to lead to personal attacks. If you don't like a forum with discussions that stay on topic and don't get personal, go somewhere else.

sorry I think I left a few words out of that sentence.... I meant to say, what revs does it idle at in gear (generally lower than neutral in an auto, and turning on the aircon should raise the revs) but anyway I think you found the problem, any vacuum nipple without a hose must cause a leak. if you put your finger over it when the engine is running can you feel it sucking, and does it start to idle higher? If that is not the leak you might also have a small split in one of the hoses (very easy when removing and replacing brittle stock hoses, so double check everything. also check all the hose clamps that you had to undo on the intake to fit the turbo

+1. what revs? does it get better if you turn the A/C on? given the turbo swap, I'd suspect a vacuum leak.

Thread locked due to an absence of on topic discussion

BTW if I was doing a new car now I would just use 2 electric switches killing both legs of a relay (one +, one -). Easy to run the extra wires and no need to run full power all over the car. A switch like this would be appropriate for the external kill: http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=SP0786&form=CAT2&SUBCATID=978#1

Yeah that was on Neil's race car (http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/341836-neils-r33-gts-t-build/) It was run that way to retain the standard undercar main positive to the starter and front, so basically the + terminal runs to the switch near the seat, and then back to the boot. There are shorter was to cut it if necessary. It uses a dual pole switch to cut both the main battery and the main ignition (via a big relay). I've used a similar cut off in my race car (ie relay to cut ignition) but I'm not really happy with it in either car because the relay will eventually drain the battery unless the kill switch is pulled. I'd love to hear a better way to do it without hacking up factory looms too much.....without the ignition relay the alternator obviously keeps the car running even if the battery is isolated. Has Damo or someone else knowledgeable got an idea?

umm a bit late, but that's where mine is too, it is mounted on the scuttle panel thingy. I did not use a bracket it is just mounted straight on the plastic, and has survived 8 years of use so far (only ever gets pulled at scrutineering every now and then)