Duncan

Thanks for the extra data guys, I've updated the graphs on the first page. And here's some more summaries: Average margin by brand cheapest and most expensive It's interesting that the margin varies by price and location....so if you feel like you are taken advantage of because of where you live.....you are....

yeah that's what I've set up....anyone who wants a like pm me your email address. Or if there is a better way to do it I'd be happy to know that too Me and computers good not.

Oh that was f**king hilarious. Well played

Hi Boris, please discuss trading with Blitz or R31Nismoid. The thread is closed in the meantime.

Hey Zeb, this is a very different project......keep in mind these were raced as "Street Sedans" in the NSW champs so there are a few ex race cars sitting in sheds getting dusty that you may want parts from....in particular anyone that has a bolt in cage Get in touch with these guys http://www.nswproductiontouringcars.com.au/nptc.html

the most important thing about a tyre is....can you afford to buy it wider tyres in the same brand and compound would almost always be faster. but the difference may not be worth the money. even weirder is that same width tyres for larger rims are more expensive. (eg 235/16 vs 235/18) despite there being less rubber. As "the checkout" would say......SCAM!

don't believe a word of it

I'm a little surprised no-one else is interested in collecting data....anyway here are 2 more from this week: United, Rozelle: 91:148.7, 100:167.7 Caltex, Majura ACT: 91:157.9, 95:168.9 And here are some sample graphs of the data. Thanks Ian for the link to base prices, here are the numbers for Sydney from that site: What do they say together? Buying on 98 from BP Marulan on a Saturday (175.9) would cost you 21c (12%) more than buying 95 from BP Pymble on a Wednesday (156.9). Who wouldn't want to pay 12% less for petrol?

Well you couldn't have a better debut....well done

lol, mod fail. how about now?

done, thanks for highlighting it.

I've used all the top oils, even the $50/l stuff and they all effectively work the same....basically none of them provide significantly better protection and performance than each other. Obviously use synthetic, change it often, and make sure it doesn't get too hot. But don't worry too much about which brand

Interesting...I bought my last set of federals about 12 months ago and they were still great - but I have no idea how long they were in a warehouse before I used them. If they have changed the compound or construction without changing the model number it makes it very hard for the market to know when to trust them and how to rate them. When yoko moved from A032R to A048R they said they only changed the tread pattern, apparently the compounds and construction didn't change....which was interesting because the A048 were a rubbish tyre with totally different characteristics from A032R. But I guess my point is that they did the right thing and called it a different model when they made changes

So I think the key thing for sprints and hillclimbs is to buy the softest tyre you can from any given range. The tyre can't get hot enough in a minute or 5 to go off, so use the extra grip. As for your ideas: - Kumho V70a mediums (quoted at 440 per tyre). I found these very good, and they last well (ie, they continue to grip well until there is no tread left!). On the other hand, they had a huge/dangerous failure rate when they were the control tyre in our category, particularly under the heavy cars. -Hankook Z221 mediums (about 480 per tyre). I've never used these, but they won $uperlap last year. Based on this I'd guess they are excellent, and will probably wear quickly. -Federal FZ 201 Mediums (365 per tyre but plus postage). I was very happy with these as a price/performance and will continue to use them. The only concern is they were poor in the wet. or there is talk of these achillies 123's but my gut says no. (cheap as chips). No idea, but I will say the Achilles sport (road tyres) on my cube have been surprisingly good, so don't assume the brand is rubbish (lets face it...established brands and expensive and rest on their laurels, while new brands have to work harder). Ultimately you are competing in short runs, so tyres will have a higher than normal impact on whether you are quick or not. If you want to win you will need to spend up, I'd suggest trying the Hankooks or if you are rolling in cash go Yoko A050 or Dunlop Dz03. And if not, go the Federals

Guys, the intention of this thread was NOT to talk about the base (91/e10/whatever) price, because I'm sure we all know that goes up and down based on fuel companies' pricing decisions (and sometimes exchange rates, oil prices and wars). Like Luke said: The point is the more often hidden/obscured difference between the base price and the stuff we all have to use. Based on what I've seen so far, I think we will find cheaper brands and/or locations by gathering some proper information. Yep, exactly the same scam really...it's pretty sad, but they will all keep doing this unless we pay attention to the behaviour!

Sorry, not sure who the South Pole distributor is.....I could find a place if you were in mainland Australia These posts from earlier in the thread? And here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/390957-short-time-offer-on-federal-fz-201/?hl=%2Bfederal#entry6224777 And here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/372285-federal-semi-slick-opinions/?hl=%2Bfederal#entry5954313

Thread locked in the absence of any obvious value in the current discussion.

so.....?

hey mate, it's been a while! Is that actually your car? I thought you only had a cordia?

yeah they are mostly e10, whatever is cheapest. I think some servos still have 91 and e10 91 on their pumps.

Some data: BP, Pymble, 91: 142.5, 95: +10c 98: +16c Shell, Manuka ACT, 91:148.9, 95: n/a 98: +17c Caltex Concord, 91: 157.9, 95:+13c, 98: +17c BP Marulan, 91: 157.9, 95: +12c, 98: +18c Caltex, Majura ACT, 91: 157.9 95: +11c, 98: +15c

I've been driving more than usual lately, and using more fuel, so I've been taking more than a passing interest in prices. In particular, while the servos advertise their cheapest price in huge letters, they kind of "forget" to advertise the expensive 95 or 98 octane stuff we actually had to buy. So, this is a survey of advertised vs actual prices for the fuel we need....feel free to add in this format: Brand, Location, cheapest price on sign (usually e10 91 octane), 95: margin 98: margin Interesting to learn that different brands, and even different locations on the same brand charge different margins.

Spotted (well, parked next to) a silver 33 tonight. no idea what the suburb is, just off northbourne ave

so you don't/can't run the standard reo? I have a tow strap on mine, bolted on (with grommets) where the reo bolts to the chassis rails

What I don't understand, is why didn't Nissan make the cars with this engine....with their weight they really benefit from a few extra ccs. Good dyno result, particularly on 98 (it's getting rare over here to see a medium or high power build that is not running e85)