Duncan

Its all easy mate, just the normal rb30 4wd stuff You will need a sump adapter. You will need to sort out the oil pickup. The lower gearbox to sump bolts will not line up by the width of the adapter. The head will be 30mm higher, affects to radiator hose, intake and exhaust. But that's about all. Plenty of clearance for the motor including keeping the factory strut brace. Oh, and it is an awesome conversion

lol I mean NKOTB not me But thanks anyway Rosie

I'm the new kid on the block. I'll bet Shell's the only one that remembers. and the cold hasn't been so bad once you get used to the initial shock. I guess it will still get a few degrees colder over the next month?

you've got to get it done by someone with demonstrated experience for the use you have. There are too many ways to f**k them up

Water temp is a terrible gauge to tell if the car is ready to drive hard. If that's all you have keep going easy for a few minutes after it reaches normal temp. If you have oil pressure, notice how high it is when cold, and how low it is after a long drive. When it comes down from high/cold to low/normal it is ready to hoon. If you have oil temp, anything over about 60- 70 is ready like trouble said The important thing is it might take much longer than you'd guess to warm up, esp on a Canberra morning. The stag is not getting anything near warm on my commute. Dont thrash a cold engine! It is way bad for it!

Yep that is exactly what I tried. The casings are different.

ads 80s style and yes, for the kids who are wondering, Tom Cruise *was* cool in the 80s.

if everyone blocks ads, we lose the forum's main form of income, so we all have no SAU. Love the ads. Click on them sometime. You don't want to know what it would cost to run a forum this big each month

You know, there are so many wrong things in my post that maybe I should stop drinking and typing. The correct statement is: r32/r33 ratios (4.4 and 4.1) will not fit in the r34 front diff casing (3.5). I know you've said it has been done, but they must have either modified the casing or used the 32/33 casing/sump (they bolt on the block fine). The 32/33 crown wheel/centre is too large for the 34 casing.

sorted?

ahh good question....not sure. I do know the 34gtr front diff gears do not fit in the 33/34 casing/sump, but I am not sure about the rear. Can you get the diff casing as well as the centre?

not this time mate, make sure you have another birthday next year Its a great little track, I'm sure you guys will have fun

Yeah f**king great as usual. I drove through this morning at 8am. 1 degree and heavy fog

+1 worked fine for me. replacement not necessary unless they are physically rooted

32-34gtr /32-33 gtst /c34 are all the same rails

if you want an unobtrusive way to make sure it doesn't start, just unplug something important in the engine bay, but leave the plug touching but not properly plugged to it's normal place. The crank angle sensor plug, ignitor pack or resistor pack would all make the car crank but not fire. assuming they aren't towing it away

like I said, put a rope around the end of the spanner it will give you the grip to pull it down. If you are still stuck tomorrow let me know, I'm heading back down there in the morning.

14psi is not guaranteed instant death for a turbo. It's heat that kills them so if you only boot it occasionally and for short periods you will probably be OK for a while. But 14psi would not be OK for regular, full throttle stuff like multiple drag runs or a track day where it has long periods of high boost and no time to cool down. I reckon NAP is onto it, there is probably a simple plumbing problem. As for gtr turbs....n1 spec is OK if they are ball bearing (ie R34) but terrible if they are bush bearing R32, R33 or "nismo". They are still a pretty small upgrade, so maybe not worth all the hassle unless you are doing it yourself

pretty sure you mean an r32 gtst wastegate actuator. It's the brass fitting that controls boost through the turbo's internal wastegate. But unless you can easily find one, it is just as easy to use a standard actuator and a bleed valve to get 10-12psi. If you are running 14psi someone has already been fiddling with your boost control, but it's not really like an instant turbo death sentence

underneath mate. Try a stubby 14mm ratchet with a piece of rope on the end to pull down.

Motorkhana on Monday http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/423799-s-a-u-n-s-w-texikhana-queens-birthday-holiday-monday/page-6#entry6862890 Tech night in a few weeks. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/426197-s-a-u-n-s-w-tech-night-for-members-5th-july-servicing-blue-slips-eng-certificates/#entry6873740 Just keep an eye on the events section

Why did I park the golf on the middle of the oval like an arsehole in the middle of a cricket match?

I took the golf

getting better.....but I think it has intake issues

sorry to hear that mate. sorry you bought a frontera I mean