Duncan

Those pics should be working now, something something SSL certificate renewal something

Thanks GTSBoy for reporting this lowlife. On investigation this is another scammer. They have sent 2 PMs to people as follows: To Marzoum - Hi Mate, a member of the forum have some BNR32 Front driver side (right) abs sensor for sale. He goes by "oktaytrz" here, you can reach him at [email protected] To cabramatta - Hi Mate, a member of the forum have some R34 GTT Manual Gearbox for sale. He goes by "oktaytrz" here, you can reach him at [email protected] Well constructed really, because oktaytrz is a long term, previously active but now inactive member, and by redirecting them to the scammer's email instead of the real members email it may well be effective phishing. Please be cautious of any PM directing you to an off forum email, of course we have no visibility of what happens outside the forums.

Yeah that can be a go, you'll just need to reassure the shop they are not on the hook for fitment issues. The turbo outlet Y pipe to intercooler should be pretty safe, you just adjust the cooler piping to match. Turbo inlets from Pods don't have to be that exact because while the pod is mounted, it doesn't have to be in an exact location. Having said that....I don't have a suggestion of a Ti fab shop so I'm not much help

I like it....pretty sure Russ went with the Aussie flag on the roof when he shipped his car to race at Tsukuba Yeah pretty sure that is the one.....hurts the eyes

"and you might possibly never see another yellow GTR in your lifetime" hahah I see one every time I look in the shed, the race car is a commodore yellow, I think it looks great in pics etc. Ian, it looks like you are going for a very serious rebuild here, great to see the attention to detail

you're a monster!

In the last couple of posts? They come up for me, not sure if anyone else has an issue? Or, is it earlier posts, we seem to have clocked up 10 pages on this ramble

I just wanted to comment on this. I run genuine Nissan N1 turbos on the race car as I am only allowed to use factory parts. They are horrible, 270o journal bearing turbos which are both laggy and unreliable (to be fair, they were state of the art in 1993). They come on boost at about 4,000rpm which is not impossible in race use but is about 1,000-1,500 rpm laggier than a modern alternative for the same target power. There are plenty of good aftermarket options for low mounted twins which will look factory, but spare yourself the pain and don't go genuine N1s

understood....I was running 12 psi on the standard turbo for 180kw....standard intercooler, intake, ECU etc just an exhaust. Oh, and some nice big sticky tyres

You can easily determine if it is actually a BOV problem by blocking off both valves temporarily and seeing if the issue still occurs....a blanking plate from cutting up a coke can is the traditional method.

Back in the day there was a few of us with 180-200kw R33 GTSTs being very reliable for road and track day use for years.....but then 400 became the new 200 and 600 became the new 400 and everyone has expensive, broken projects. There is nothing wrong with a lightly modified standard setup for years of reliable fun

If you have an aftermarket ECU, a log of AFM, Boost and TPS might help. But frankly, a standard GTR is no response king compared to a modern turbo car

Standard turbo, and no boost controller? It would make about 180-200kw, more if you add a boost controller and are willing to blow up the turbo

So, testing after the adjustment, it seems to be about what I was after. With an empty tank it showed 81ohms and dead empty on the gauge. Add 20l and it was off the bottom of the gauge but still on E (76ohm), which is pretty similar to factory which sows E for 13l (and should also stop the surging until E....will check and see) I didn't get a resistance at 40l because the float was fouling on the fuel pump wires, had to pull it all out again and route it better At 60l it shows about 2/3 full (23ohms) I'll check it again when it is full at a servo, (76l per manual) but looks like pretty much what I was after.

So, I disconnected and extended the fuel return, and then jumped the relay to pump it out. The pump mounting is excellent when not moving on level ground, it pulled all but 2l out of the tank (the 32 GTR factory pump states it is empty with 13l remaining in the tank. I checked the sender, and very similar to factory it runs from 6ohms full to 82ohm empty, so that was not the issue, however the float hit the bottom of the tank before it hit the stop on the sender, and it hit the upper stop on the sender before it reached the roof so some "adjustment" was in order, Using the un-patented "angle o matic" I figured mounting at 75o instead of 90o should give the range I wanted (ie, showing empty at about 1/4 tank when surging starts, and showing full then the float is on the roof of the tank. So, I modified the mount to hold the sender at that angle and put it back in the tank

So, I figured since weed season is over for 6 months and the stagea was in the shed, I might as well take on the issue with the sender. Annoyingly the Frenchy's Performance Garage fuel hat and baffles (version 2, not current) deletes the low fuel warning light, and although it comes with a new sender, this is what it shows for a full to the brim tank: And this is what it shows when the pump starts surging in corners (to be fair, this is an issue with the baffling not the pump mount or sender level)

So the good news is the new fuse holder has been fine for 2 months of summer, absolutely no fuel issues. Until, 30klm from home Sunday night, the engine stopped on the highway and would not restart. Fuse and holder were good but with limited tools there was not much I could do on the side of the freeway. Anyway....some time later (about 1am)....the NRMA dropped the car back home, and I had a look at it Saturday. Turns out the Fuel pump relay had died. It was a sneaky failure, the relay still gave a good click when 12v was applied across the coil, but it didn't actually connect the main contactors. I did have a spare in the shed, swapped it out and all good. If it fails again I'll swap it out for a solid state on, for now I'm just adding a relay to the onboard spares collection

Yeah I did hear of a few barra conversions starting....never heard of too many actually completing. There isn't really much benefit of the engine they came with, and the barra is a big engine for a relatively small engine bay. It will be far "easier" to +T your GT, that is a well worn route. Even then it will still cost more than you expect so start saving!

I can't be sure about the pad because my fronts are a porsche 4 spot not standard, but Bendix does show the same pad for R32 vspec/R33/R34 brembos and 350z Track: Brembos: https://www.bendix.com.au/products/db1520 I did a fair bit of sprint racing (up to 20min) with DTC-60 on the front and HT10 on the rear they were excellent. They did not work from cold so don't use them on the street unless you are OK with that "oh f**k I'm not going to be able to stop for that roundabout" feeling. They took abuse like this and kept working fine. However, these days I am running Winmax, equivalent performance but a fair bit cheaper.

yeah aint that the truth! I would still double check all of the heights and fork operation, and replace the throw out bearing while it is all apart.....depending how long the car sat without use it might be an age problem (if that is even a thing with clutches!) but it could also have been slipping a little for a long time

You need to check that the earth ring near the ignitor is properly earthed to the head, from factory the ignitor and coil earth are part of the coil pack cover mounting, and you won't get spark unless it is properly earthed.

Definitely no gap is acceptable between engine and gearbox, I'd get it on a hoist, take the box off and check carefully before attempting to put it on again. Could be the fouling on the dowels on the engine, could be you have a manual instead of auto spiggot bush in the back of the crank, could be the input shaft was already bent (or it has been bent while installing), not sure what else, I've not dealt with an auto rb

well that would explain why it had a mechanical fuel pump that mine doesn't

Pretty poor effort from the seller, unless they were clear the car would not run as supplied. I don't think the car will run properly, if at all, on a standard ECU. Apart from anything else you should confirm if you have standard injectors and that the air flow meters wiring is connected. And I suspect your ignition issue might be masked by the ECU issue too, so the troubleshooting is going to be difficult. Perhaps you could ask the seller what ECU it was running previously, I was assuming Link or Haltech as they make plug ins and you didn't mention the ECU wiring had been messed with

How to change ATTESA Nitrogen Cannister - by Deza3000