Duncan

I can't make it this year, but I am dead keen to get there one year. Good luck Tom Anthony, they block off a section of the old lakes way near bulahdelah. A bit like the old pac highway, an absolute blast to drive with no speed limits

I snort laughed. Not sure how they could acheive a gayer look without adding these guys as pit crew

good call...would be interesting to see how they go around

great times run by these cars too, I understand Simonsen got the Ferrari down to a 2.05

maybe! the strut tops are probably standard stagea in there now....the rear in particular has an oval strut top and I can't see how a gtr top would fit. It's not the whole shock that changes, just the strut top/spring mount

You will want stagea strut tops, not GTR. Definately for the rear and probably for the front as well, because they have to fit into the chassis OK. I think your best bet will be a set of standard ones, aftermarket (if you can find them) is likely to be expensive, and be "pillow ball" which is a large bearing at the top which will probably flog out quickly in road use and start knocking, sending you crazy

Yes you sure can, in fact it is more effective than in a vlsd. I don't know the specifics but it involves adding additional clutch plates of the correct thickness. I've been running my race car with a shimmed standard diff for years

hi Chris, sorry too busy hooning to wave Nice 34 BTW

Unfortunately the tops will be missing for a reason. Many suspensions sets don't come with tops and you have to reuse the existing ones. So if you are swapping your standard ones over just reuse the tops from those. If you don't have the standard ones....they are very hard to find because everyone needs them! Sometimes the easiest way to get a set is to buy some second hand standard shocks just for the tops

Hi mate, 1.1 is the correct gap for skyline plugs, so don't blame the local guy. Where that gets tricky is that you may need to lower the gap to get a consistent spark with older coil packs, higher boost etc etc. You should always run the largest gap you can (without missfire) to get the most efficient burn due to the largest spark. As for coil packs....in my experience, any new set will provide a better spark than a 20yo set. While some people have had Dead on Arrival (DOA) issues with cheaper coilpacks, if they work they will work as well as factory. And pretty much any supplier will replace a DOA coil pack (not to mention they have to under fair trading laws)

And I can sort them out if Nick can't. Is that those dirt cheap bilsteins? I would have bought them if they had tops, great deal

totally agree. I've had tolerance issues with brand new nissan cranks and a brand new n1 block. always get it measured before you use it

Generally a crank needs Plugs drilled out, tapped, cleaned and grub screws inserted Clean in hot bathCheck for straightness. Check for clearances to block and girdle Check for clearances to rod big ends Linish lightly or for oversize bearings Fit Crank collar if it is 32 or early 33 crank. A rough guide is $500-$1000, towards the higher end if a bearing was spun on the old motor.

Is the material important? Adam is working on a new group buy for ally ones: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/418308-stagea-radiator-air-guidedeflectors/

So we picked up a LEAF the other day, and I thought it needed a build thread. This is the starting point: Stage 1 will be the usual; bigger exhaust, pod filter, and some basic stuff like a good synthetic oil and an aluminium radiator Stage 2 might look into a high lift cam, racing plugs, or a bolt on turbo, and if I go stage 3 it might include stroking the crank and an e85 conversion

so....any news? Like, selling this for instance?

+1 And I reckon it's because they have been built on a sensible, not commercially driven basis, by people who know these sorts of cars.

Good feedback? Yes. I run a standard gtr diff in my race car, just reshimmed. It is cheap and excellent. Detailed feedback? Sorry can't help, it was done at Award Gearbox and Diff. But the only change was the number and type of plates

Nope you'll be fine. You have to tilt the motor a fair way to lose oil there

lol you just upset so many drifters (if such people still exist, they are probably "time-attackers" now). can't beleive the number of people that have told me that stretched tyres are better than a correct fit. They all knew better than a) the manufacturers and b) the race teams (all the way up to f1). I've never seen a stretched tyre on a serious race car

Tyres mate. There are a whole heap of things on there that make much less difference than a good set of tyres. ANd doing track work, or even worse making setup changes, with road tyres on the track is just chasing a problem that may not exist. There are a brilliant handling car out of the box (tyring tracking something else like a commodore or wrx that is pretty standard and you will feel the difference!) The setup I used on my GTST (1.10s at Wakefield park) were: bleed valve, 12psi boost, 160rwkw lower springs tight mechancial diff whiteline sway bars 235 front 265 rear semi slicks If you are on a budget (like most people), try Federal FZ201 tyres, they are great in the dry and very cheap. Otherwise I'd go Kumho V70a, or maybe Toyo 888 (but skylines can be a ltitle heavy). If you want the best at any price go for Dunlop Dz03, Yoko A050 or the Hankooks, but be ready to pay $500+ per tyre. BTW you can get second hand slicks or semi slicks but they are a real gamble on quality...generally they are cheap because they are past their best, but sometimes there are bargains

The standard gtr setup has brake ducts in the lower lip, under the under tray. N1s had factory fitted deflectors on the castor rods that UAS copied in the pics above. But that is all a little lightweight really. All a castor rod deflector can do is waft air in the right direction, and I'd be willing to be the result of a comparable, back to back test is 0o or thereabouts. If you want a serious ducting setup check Risking's posts in the motorsport section, it shows a proper duct that runs to the inside of the disc, that would make a big difference. See the real issue there is that the brembos are a very small increase over the standard setup (maybe 10% larger for pads and discs). There are much better upgrades, cheaper like the D2 kits. Having said that, our class required us to run standard disc and caliper for years which means I had to run the brembo setup. After trying a heap of pads and fluids over the years, Hawk DT-60 and Motul RBF600 gave me acceptable braking even over 1 hour races with those calipers and discs. That setup was focussed on making the absolute most out of what i had to run, rather than adding a little cooling....as you can see they ran very hot but still worked perfectly (RIP Oran Park night racing )

Who called me what???

lol I was just going to say Chris but I figured that wasn't helpful in this thread he also helped out Eric with what was left of his mx-5 after that track day "incident"

Without meaning to take this off topic, is the question just general interest, or do you have a heat problem? Ducting might be useful or even imperative in some race setups, but I guess most brake issues in road/light track cars could easily be fixed in other ways.