Duncan

yep that's the one, there are a couple of Chris Goth's cars running

ahh that's what I was about to say D2 piston area is almost identical to standard although the disc and caliper is much larger. So they are a great swap with no impact on front/rear bias I wouldn't bother changing the rears in any case, you just change the pads to be more or less aggressive if you want to change the front/rear balance a little. No need to change the caliper and disc they are already adequately large in almost all use

well if there was ever a chassis that could take more power and go faster it is this one. But that still doesn't make it a good idea unless you can afford to run it and fix it. BTW Kel is navigating for Matilda down at Targa Wrestpoint this weekend....luckily in an n/a mx5 not a turbo....the n/a ones shoudn't crash as hard

sorry...but no. If I was in that budget range I would have an AMG supertaxi and do 20 national rounds per year, or buy a carbon aston martin+ a tarmac rally R35 and do a varied range of events Or maybe I would just invest the cash in beer and hookers.

well I'd guess there are very few winners out there who are not also cheaters thanks Lance for reminding us all that In a lot of ways, the essence of superlap was to see how quick a car can go without rules to hold it back. And like every other formula where that has ever been tried (active suspension or turbo F1, group b rally, can am touring cars etc etc), it quickly somes to a ridiculously unsustainable level. I mean, in what reality does someone spend a million on a car that can only do 1 lap, and can't do any other event?

see?? fun for everyone!

Spot on Ben, that clearly says that the standard suspension points cannot be moved. Nowhere does it say they have to be used to mount the suspension. And if you don't think that is a valid interpretation...where was the AFM on the Gibson R31s? Those rules said the standard AFM had to be present and connected.

well that's the thing. any standard (or tuned) ECU is based on a specific base pressure. If you put an adjustable FPR on and are not retuning, you need to set it to the same base pressure as the previous FPR, ie there is no point. The only real use to an adjustable FPR is to get maybe 10-20% more flow out of injectors without swapping them for something larger. In that case you must retune the car anyway, so set it to the standard base + whatever % you need and tune it from there.

muahahaha excellent, early break out of fighting talk!

That's why I've always loved a "lifetime" guarantee. It is kind of like no guarantee at all if the manufacturer is willing to fix it until the time it is broken?

lol you get used to that. I drove to Canberra for a meeting yesterday morning....2 tanks required. The way that engine pulls is spectacular....but so is it's fuel use

oh you've got to be kidding me. next time I drop by canberra for the morning I'll grab them too.

good news I was going to say...be careful with 1/2" extensions/breaker bars etc. Often the plugs are a little round already and you can really f**k it. You can get 13mm square fittings for this exact job. They are a lot tighter fit and won't round it off. The one I have is 13mm square at one and and 19mm hex at the other so you can put a big spanner or bar over it to get the leverage you need. But I'll be f**ked if I understand why they are alawys so damn tight! Even when I put them back in a little loose, it takes f**king superman to take them off again! damn straight, good tips.

saw this today at Pro-Fab....it looks excellent. and very serious.

don't you have a swift in the shop, it fits that bill perfectly.

hi mate, definately start with a wheel alignment first, get a print out of before and after and post it up assuming nothing is loose or bent, some sort of alignment issue like toe out on the rear is most likely

hmm funny you should say that, according to her she is a f**king angel when she is down there?

Yep Kel is off in the morning to do it mx5 style again. And you can redrill those holes for sure....the knurls are only there to stop it turning when the wheelnut is going on, the thread does all the clamping work.

Please keep on topic as per the original poster's point or I will have no alternative but to issue bannings, or even whippings, to bad people.

the sound is out of sync with the video because you were going faster than the speed of sound (but not light). Great to see Scott still out there taking pics too, he has been spectating, photographing and occasionally trying club motorsport for years Excellent driving there, nice and smooth and it is damn quick around the top of the track in particular. It also looks like you have a favourite passing spot As for mods....all I can suggest is do as little as possible! You are getting more race time than everyone else on SAU put together! Sure you can make it go faster, but can you afford to spend your way to the front? And even if you did, do you think it is more fun chasing/dicing with someone, or running away at the front....I know which one I'd pick. You are obviously enjoying your racing, have been making a lot of events (therefore staying within or close to your budget) and having fun. Why change that?

Are you crazy? RB30 stagea is the only way to go

Update, I was totally incorrect. There is a WA for sale section that does require approval. I'll check out the story.

That's f**king hilarious....good work It looks like a pretty average track for those sorts of speed too...drop over the ditch sometime and give it a run here

That's a pretty crap set of problems. Any idea what happened to the caliper? Just loose bolts I guess?

Always good to hear a happy workshop story....good on them