Duncan

yeah I'm really not sure why you've never dropped by for a beer you anti-social bastard

I have one of those on mine (aluminium, not c/f), someone on here used to make them. They are excellent for holding tools while working under the bonnet, no sign of whether it actually helps cool the engine or not.

I agree Charles....is sounds over-cautious but there are some things it is worth checking with a torque wrench, especially if you don't work with bolts all the time. If you do, you pretty quickly get a feel for it...but then why would you be reading a DIY?? Daniel...this is just my experience, and I'm no mechanic. However, I've been lightly greasing wheel studs on all my cars including the race car for years. It guarantees they will come off nicely when you next need them to. I've never lost a properly torqued wheel nut on a greased wheel stud, and I've never had a broken stud, even after years of racing.

I think it's pretty straightforward. Rotas (or pretty much any wheel ever made) are fine for road use. If you like the look, why not save money? People using them for track/rally/drifting whatever are mad, unless they have a specific reason eg sponsorship, or needing lots of wheel because they get through lots of tyres

you know, I had a sneaking suspicion that might be you why else would a vw been hooning along trying to keep up with a stag?

sorry but I am with the nay-sayers on this one....you would have to find some sample prices before expecting this to go far. Motorsport quality c/f is as dear as sin.

only in Ozstraya could that happen

out of interest, what state is Whoop Whoop in?

I'll bet they become collectors items now....much like most of us have a japanese rego label on the windscreen

speaking of the photo....does it show a bus queueing right across the intersection, or did you go through after it had time to drive right across?

I've been running a set of these brakes for about 5 years now, so it was time to change the pads and rotors. Cheap and easy to do, I've posted a DIY here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/414681-diy-replacing-pads-and-rotors-on-d2g4attkd-etc-8-piston-brakes/

I recently changed the rotors on the stagea, it runs the 8 piston D2 brakes (which are currently available on an excellent Group Buy for $1700 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/413182-big-brake-group-buy/) Warning: Changing Brake bits is dead serious. As in, if you get it wrong, you can be dead. Go carefully, double check everything, and don’t start this job unless you are confident you have everything to finish it properly. Parts and Supplies: A set of pads (~$300) A pair of rings (~$400) Brake cleaner (probably 2 cans at about $10ea) Rags Tools you will need: A jack At least 1 car stand (2 is much easier!) Something to remove the wheel nuts (generally 17, 19 or 21mm socket). I had an electric rattle gun which is great Gloves are a real smart idea, especially if you want to go to work the next day with all digits intact Hey Key set (edit to add sizes). Preferably ones that mount on 1/2" breaker bar or ratchet. You will not get the bolts undone with an ikea hex key, you will end up wrecking something. 10mm ring spanner or socket Torque wrench (highly recommended, but not essential) Rattle gun electric or air (not essential, but a lot easier!) Catch tray is a good idea depending on the work surface Steps: 1. Identify a supervisor for the job. This can be someone with a deckchair and beers, a nagging spouse, a little voice in your own head, etc. I had DogZilla fill the role. 2. Check the fluid level in your master cylinder under the bonnet. If it is at MAX, and the pads and rotors are very worn, remove some! If you don't you will have brake fluid spill out and wreck the paint in your engine bay 3. If you don’t have a rattle gun, you need to loosen the wheel nuts before you jack the car up. Undo the wheel nuts ½ turn before you start. If you don’t have a rattle gun and don’t read this, you’ve got a frustrating job ahead. 4. Jack the car up at the front on level ground, and support it safely on chassis stands, chock the rear wheels to stop it rolling. Give it a wobble, make sure it doesn’t fall off. If you are not sure where or how to jack the car up search around for the DIY on that, it is important to get right 5. Take the wheels off. Marvel at the tasteless colour of the calipers 6. Remove the pins holding pad in with a hex key. Keep the pins, bushes and spring together. 7. Slide the pads out of the caliper. As you do, if you lever them sideways you can push those 4 little pistons on each side back in until they are flush with the caliper. There are tools and lots of other ways to do it, but the pads are large (so harder to push sideways) and already in your hand. 8. Put an oil tray under the hub, and give the calipers a good clean with brake cleaner and a rag. 9. Undo the hey bolts that bolt the caliper to the adapter. You should need a big breaker bar, because it should be tight. Never use a ratchet to undo a tight bolt, you can break them. If you can't budge the bolt, get a longer bar (or put something like a jack handle over the breaker bar). If that still doesn’t work you can tap the bar with a hammer with moderate but not excessive force - make sure you hit it straight on and that the hex key is on absolutely straight. If you round off the bolt you have just made the job bloody hard. You can also remove them where the adapter bolts to the hub, but the caliper to adapter bolts are sooooooo much easier. This is one of the great things about this caliper design. 10. Take the caliper off and rest or cable tie it to the hub or upright. Never let it hang by the brake line. Clean the back of the caliper! 11. Slide the rotor off the hub/studs 12. Find some bench space, and undo the nuts and bolts that hold the ring onto the centre of the rotor. Tedious, there are 12 per side! I was lucky enough to have the rattle gun again, if you are doing it by hand it is hard work and will take a while. Unless you have bought new ones, you need to keep and re-use all the nuts and bolts 11. Clean the centres, the nuts and the bolts. Give the old rings to the scrap metal guy. How is your supervisor going? DogZilla wasn't too concerned yet, looks like I might be able to crack a beer without him seeing 12. Get the new rings, make sure the vanes inside run the same way as the one you just removed. The slots on the disc may have changed, some go forward, some go backwards, it's not relevant. The cooling comes from air going in the centre of the disc and being pumped out by the vanes inside the disc as they turn. 13. Bolt the ring to the centre with those clean shiney bolts. I used a little wd40 because there was a bit of light rust after 5 years of abuse, even smarter would be replacing the bolts (but not essential, especially for road use). Doing the nuts up properly is important, I strongly recommend using a torque wrench. Too loose and the bolt may come undone, too tight (much more likely with little bolts) and it may strip or snap (and you may not notice). Either way, your rings and centres would not be bolted together properly which could lead to an unpleasant surprise when you stomp the brakes one day. The correct torque for a high tensile M6 bolt is 8-10NM (7-8ft/lb) according to my friends at Nissan. Always have a clean bolt, lightly oiled, when you use a torque wrench. 12. Clean the new rings. This is super ultra totally important - they are coated in an oil to stop them rusting which will immediately stuff the pads if it is not removed before use. Your supervisor should check this. 12. Clean the hub, the surface where the rotor is held against. Do I keep mentioning cleaning? Brake dust in between surfaces is the biggest cause of squeally brakes, if you do this right you won't have the problem. If you don't you can try all sorts of tricks until you get the shits and blame the pads. Even my race car's pads don't squeal (mostly!) 13. Slide the disc over the wheel studs, hold it in place with 1 wheel nut. This keeps it nicely aligned making it much easier to get the pads in. Is your supervisor keeping an eye on things? 14. Clean the caliper bolts. Refit the caliper over the disc and bolt in place on the adapter. Tighten in correctly (I don't have the correct torque handy, if someone can confirm the bolt's diameter I can update this, either 10 or 12mm). 15. Slide the pads in. I don't think you can get these around the wrong way...but check anyway! If they are not sliding in, it is because the pistons have not been pushed back flush into the caliper. They sit right into the caliper, if they are not in far enough you will not be able to get the pins and spring back in 16. Clean the pins, bushes and spring. Slide one pin in, fit the spring and hold it down, then fit the other pin. You only need to get one or 2 turns on the bolt to hold it in place for now. 17. Tighten the 2 pins into the caliper. Everything (pins, spring, pads) should be snug and not move. 18. You may decide to bleed the brakes as well now, it is a convenient time if it needs doing. You should bleed the system every year for good/racing fluid, and every 2 years for normal stuff. You'll have to find another DIY if you want to do this. 18. Put a small smear of grease on the wheel studs, give the disc a final clean to make sure there is no oil or grease, and then put the wheel back on. Tighten the wheel nuts to 110nm. 19. Jack the car up, remove the stands and lower the car carefully. Did you get all the tools and oil tray out first? Did you do both sides? 20. Check the brake master cylinder under the bonnet. Now that you have new pads and discs, you should fill it to MAX. 21. Get in the car and pump the brake pedal until it is solid. If it is not solid, or worse it sinks slowly to the floor, you have a leak or fluid problem. Find it and fix it before you do anything! You will probably forget or ignore this step, and then have the absolute shit scared out of you on the first stop....nothing stops the heart like a brake pedal that sinks to the floor without doing anything. Bedding in the pads and rotors. From here on this is personal opinion built on experience only. If the instructions with the pad say do something else, it would be safer to do something else. You have to bed in the pads to remove a factory coating, and to evenly deposit the new pad material on the rotor. If you don't do it properly the coating can smear around and the pads will never work properly. Bedding in pads is aggressive, and hard to do on a public street. These instructions apply to a private road only, be careful if you don't have one! 1. First, head out slowly and stomp the brakes. If the car doesn't stop, you have a problem. 2. Put the driver's window down, and make sure your nose works. Then, accelerate to 100-120 and hit the brakes hard. If you have ABS feel free to trigger it, if not you should brake as hard as you can without locking the brakes. Slow to 10-20klm/h but don't come to a halt (if you do, you can leave hot spots on the rotors that can warp them) 3. Repeat until the brakes are damn hot. In a normal car with normal pads this is generally on 2-4 big stops. In a car with these brakes it can take a lot longer, in my case it took 8-10 stops to get them hot. Be careful if there are other cars around, this is a really erratic type of driving! 4. You can tell the brakes are hot because of the distinctive brake burning smell. If you see smoke, you have probably gone too far (but no big deal). If you never smell the brakes...keep trying, brake harder and leave less time between stops. 5. It is important that you don't stop while the brakes are hot; and when they have got hot you need to drive 3-5 min with no or only very light braking to let them cool down (eg idle around the block a few times). Once you have done this, the brakes should be quiet, effective and smooth for years of abuse

not to mention the thread on a public forum with all the details. sometimes stuff happens, unlucky. on the bright side you still have 2 arms, 2 legs and a car (or if you don't....it wasn't this red light's fault )

what are your main and lift pumps? If you think about it, when you return fuel to the tank you have 2 pumps in serial...the lower flow one must determine the overall flow.

unfortunately that's not how it works really. The fuel line needs to return to the swirl pot to keep the pot full (along with the low flow lift pump). The main pump then drains the swirl pot. Once the swirl pot is full it overflows back to the main tank. If you return the drain to the tank your lift pump would have to be bigger than the main pump to keep it full. I've definately had higher fuel temps since running a swirl pot. BTW mine is under the car, there is lots of space under the rear seat on a 32 gtr. no smell, noise, leaks etc.

I see a picture of you driving through a red light?

bitch

godammit! since when does drunk posting let me down?

pump will definately be mounted on the diff/subframe, it is in all the r32/33/34 series as well

Sounds good, I'll chuck the Stagea on for a run

exactly what I was thinking....I'm still hurting from the price of the genuine stagea stuff

Great buying, this is the second winningest skyline in Australia as far as I know (behind Stu Inwood's R33), and one of only 6 I know that have won a National Championship. I've always had the highest respect for Geoff and the team for acheiving series wins in both production touring (the other chassis) and IPRA. Please keep it an use it well

yep agreed....but mount it firmly and pad it anywhere it can rub.....I've never had one fail

you sound really angry. quick clarification - do you need to change the boots or the shafts? boots can be replaced with plenty of generic options and I would be pretty sure 33 gtr genuine would also fit

ahh a bit late to mention, but I've had trouble twice with pushlock fittings. It may be that they are perfectly reliable when fitted correctly, if so I have made mistakes 2/3 times I have used them...way too low a success rate for me. 1 ps cooler line on the race car (has been OK for years since when I added hose clamps and 1 failure on the turbo oil feed on the tow car, replaced it with braided with proper hose ends spend up big on real fittings IMHO, even if you need to get the damn things made to length sorry to hear about it's death, you are catching up with me. leave it in the corner to gather dust for 3 months until the itch returns