Duncan

you've got me there, no way for water to get over the transmission tunnel. maybe there are 2 drains, one on either side. mine always leaks passenger side. also ac drain is on the passenger side. heater core is above the trans tunnel so it could leak either side, but coolant is a very specific colour and smell, you wouldn't confuse it for water (unless you are running water in the radiator of course)

yeah exactly, the front sunroof drain is a plastic pipe down the a pillar to the front wheel well somewhere, the rear drain down the C pillar to the rear wheel well. mine leaks from the front sunroof drain into the passenger footwell, with all that lovely sound deadening it can stay damp for ages unless you dry it out. but since I've never worked out where mine is blocked, I just don't park it nose downwards when it rains

if you have a sunroof, blocked drain is the most likely reason....I've had this problem for years and haven't got around to fixing it.

good news, the navara from the same period has pretty much the same box, and an electronic speedo sendor. Also, as with Dan I am 99% sure most of the 32-33-34 (except 34 GTR) senders are interchangeable. I have a navara electric sender in my stagea which has a 32 gtr box, and a 32 mechanical sender in my 32 gtr which has a 33 series 3 box

can I bring a couple of blocks for you to demonstrate on? I'd be there for sure, I reckon tech nights are a great club event, and good for the hosting business too

I reckon the question should be the other way around....what can members do for their club? I've been a member for 10 years and on the committee for 8 of them and I can guarantee every suggestion above has been tried multiple times. What we don't have here is people who turn posts into presence at events. A smaller, more committed community would be more effective rather than 20 people working their arses off organsiing an event, only to have 20 people turn up. The one thing I can say for sure is a winner is the cruises. They are always huge, and reasonably easy to organise

just be a bit careful bringing over a bare block from here....there were 000s sold but they tend to be in bad condition by now.....plenty of people have checked more than 1 block before finding one that looks OK. I'd be buying from RIPS for the certainty

3 pieces to worry about there...inner tie rod end (where there is a big nylon bush that wears), outer tie rod end (cast and lasts pretty well) and the ball joint in the hub (a bastard to remove, and hard or impossible to find aftermarket

While I've never been impressed with the wet performance of falken's cheapies....i'd be getting your wheel alignment checked if I were you. no car should ever feel like you are ice skating, no matter how cheap the tyres. also double check for major wear on the inside of the rears, it can be hard to notice

just wanted to say that what Neil has done with this car is really impressive. It is neither big $$$ nor big HP, but it has been doing a heap of racing and has been super reliable. There may not be 10x posts a day about it, but you can be sure cherryl is out there and being thrashed regularly which is a great thing. to you, and to Evil Chris for that matter as well....you guys are doing 1% of the talking but 90% of the racing around here. Hope to join you one day!

they sure have....I have one running in my car.....if only my car was running!!

hey good perserverance! what happened is that the car was about 70% complete, when Mark had to move to melbourne for work. I had no space for the car so it moved with him, and I don't think he has got back into it. I still think it would make a great track car, and when I need a second project again and the garage is ready, I may bring it back up here and finish it off. It really owes us bugger all and should be reasonably quick and fun. It will never go to a $uperlap though, that event has come way too far and I'm not interested in spending $200k for 10 laps and finishing in 70th place....there are lots better places for club style competitions

Hi from HK Interntational....a bit boring compared to the old Kai Tak one really

That's my guess on most likely issue, particularly if you get a pedal back after a pump or 2. If it has boiled at some stage and left air bubbles, the first pump or 2 brings the pressure up then you have a reasonable pedal. Unlikely to be pad knockoff in a skyline, they have good wheel bearings and don't tend to move much. True....it would be harder, but you can do anything if you try hard enough. I have boiled every 600+ brake fluid at different times over the years. Some last a little longer but it's not really that hard to get 600+ degrees in brakes. For what it's worth, I've found Agip to be the best, but these days I use motul because it is almost as good and cheaper (and I don't need that last 1/10th any more as I now have a better setup since some rule changes)

yes, there is a flare fitting where the attessa actuator line goes into the rear of the transfer case. Those types of fitting can be tricky. If you are confident get a spanner on it, preferably a flare nut spanner, and back it off a few turns (or even all the way off). If it is off, make sure the flare surfaces are clean and then put it back in tight, but not super tight. Thread tape might help if the flare is not right on both sides, but should not be needed. In my experience they can loosen up a little over the years, the attessa hose is big and not well supported. 80% of the time this fixes it. There are other potential problems like damaged flare on the line (you can get a reflaring tool to even it out), and on the xfer case you can actually replace the whole flare casting if it is worn or damaged. There is also an oring which seals the casting onto the xfer case. But these are less likely to be the issue.

For general track days, I'd be ok with up to 5 years. But a much bigger issue is how many heat cycles they have had, and you can't tell that by looking at them or their age

that is an "upper control arm outer bush", and yes, it needs replacing!

All fixed now Hugh!

THanks stealh-ish, I've fixed all the links in the first post based on yours

haha that perked the thread up....I've always called those "special service tools" after the helpful entries in the nissan workshop manuals....but yours is more of a "super special tool" eg, use Special Service Toll #42 to remove the harmonic balancer. Any time the manual says that you know you are going to need to be creative... Also, I picked up the power bar from Auto One Hornsby the other day, on special for $149.

Hi Shakil, You are best to start by joining a club like SAU NSW, there are details in this thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/365434-s-a-u-n-s-w-club-membership-faq/ From there, you have a range of options depending on budget, time and enthusiasm Entry level / club events: You would need either nothing, or just very basic safety gear like a fire extinguisher. In addition to the entry fee, some events require one of various licenses which you just pay for. This could include drag days, skidpans, drift days, supersprints like world time attack, motorkhanas etc etc. Most are very friendly events with a little competition between entrants, but nothing too serious. State or National Supersprints or Hillclimbs, or a quick drag car: When you step up a little it is more serious. You may require more safety modifications (eg faster drag cars need roll cage and a blanket around the gearbox), or if you are looking at other events you may want to fit a roll cage. The rules tend to be stricter and more seriously enforced. Once you have a roll cage it is harder to keep the car road registered but many people do Full door to door racing, tarmac rallies, dirt rallies: If you decide to go here you almost certainly need a dedicated race car, and budget starting at say $20k per annum for a couple of rounds in a NSW series.

really good idea Eric, I like anything that supports the community. to me the for sale section is a bit structured, and I have a few gtrs worth of parts lying around that I would never go through the trouble of posting up in threads. the main issue with an open spreadsheet is people f**king with it...but maybe if it was club members only and old versions were kept? another option would be a really simple database on the club website, importantly with the ability to upload data from spreadsheets. I could add a few hundred bits that aren't worth much to me, I just keep them because I have the space and may need them one day. As these cars get older, this sort of community based exchange gets much more important For those with FS section suggestions, there are already plans afoot to make the for sale forums more structured.

I don't, but you should see them come up time to time, for about 1/10th what your tuner charged you. Make sure the part numbers match, there were smoe pinout/wiring differences in some of the models.

Tomas there is no problem or difference for running the auto ECU in manual. The auto has an additional function to cut timing when the gearbox says there is a shift taking place - but since there is no gearbox to send the signal that will never happen. I ran an auto ECU in my manual for about 18 months until other mods meant I needed to go aftermarket. Also, auto ecus will be everywhere....but manuals will be much rarer just like the donor cars

I think it's likely the brass bush is less likely to fall off (initially), but much more likely to wear the ball on the end of the shifter over time. nissan chose nylon for a reason, and most cars don't have a problem. I have been running they original nylon bush in my race car for 7 years. I am sure it was a PITA to pull the whole box to find that noise....but I am pretty confident a shifter that's not worn (not a short shifter) + new bush + a little sympathy on gear changes (don't rush too much) would solve the issue