Duncan

OK....so to trace that, per the diagram. You said you bridged the switch at the gearbox and the lights don't turn on. Per p8 that is plug 61 with reference A31. BTW are you sure you bridged the reverse switch because the neutral switch looks very similar.... The "Main Wiring Diagram" is the conceptual one you should start with. Reverse Lights are in the middle of p6. It shows wires LR01 and LR02 go from the reverse lamps (connectors T34 and T38) to the Reverse Light Switch A-31 which you said you bridged to test. LR03 is the Positive Input to that switch, it joins to MJ01 in the loom with a lot of other Ignition 12v stuff and goes to Ignition Fuse #12 10A. Ignition Fuse #12 and other things are fed by Ignition Relay R16 (which is located in the Fuse Box at the Driver's knee marked 37 on p11). Power to the Ignition Relay comes from the 65A fuse in the boot FL14. So to play that all back....you should have 12v at one of the Reverse switch pins with the Ignition on. If you don't, check Fuse 12 (I believe it is last on the left column at driver's knee marked "Electrics"), then relay 16 (unlikely to be an issue unless other things are not working), then big Fusable link FL14. If both fuses and the relay are OK and you don't have power at the switch, you have a power supply wiring issue which might be easiest to fix just by running a new wire to the switch. If you do have 12v at one side of the switch with Ignition on, you have a wiring (or globe) issue between the switch and the tail lights, or the tail lights are not earthed properly.

I am not sure what the Japanese rule is, but in Australia the speedo is required to read 0-10% higher than actual speed, I note every nissan I've had has read at least 5% above actual. Since they dyno is reading actual speed I reckon the difference is due to tyres + factory speedo error. When you change out the ECU after you modify it, the speed cut no longer affects you. Or, go total old school and just cut wire 53 (speed input) at the ECU, the car still runs fine.

It's almost like Nissan wanted us to do it

Yeah there is soemthing going on the with calcs, or may be the fuel sender and/or odometer is not working properly. E85 will use a fair bit more fuel, but that is like 30% more not 200% more Off boost your car is pretty much like any standard engine (noting it probably has cams which would decrease the efficiency a litte). My 400kw stagea gets around 12l/100 on highway driving on 98; not great but not terrible

surely there is a material difference between bum and fanny.

Same basic issue with the 32 ones, happily Nissan remade a set and they are available again because for a while every 32 in the world was driving round with the louvres broken off

I guess they could be either inputs or outputs...the picture one would be a single 3.5 and the audio stereo 3.5

haha yep, don't get me wrong, I think they are a great addition considering how your car is getting around.

Yep....it is worth remembering anything except the shittest brake setups are limited by tyre grip for a single stop, not brake ability. Bigger brakes only make a difference for repeated stops as smaller brakes would get hot and fade

Do you meant the plastic cover under the radiator/engine? If so I agree it is unlikely to be the same, the front bar and chassis is different. If you mean the engine's lower timing cover, that is the same

its always the last place you think to look!

Turbo shop can rebuild it to factory for you, although you could get a better/upgraded one at the same time at the same cost. Turbo rebuild is not really DIY, you need a high speed balancer

Yeah highway makes a big difference....the titan gets 14/100 as well at that is 2.5t, 5.6l v8. But, don't tease the prisoners who have to live in "cities"

Yeah from my understanding, when they run the second direction, you have to drive in reverse for safety. Bit unfair for anyone without an EV, but hey, that's racing!

Post edited, not because it is a scam from Kenya, but because nobody should inflict a Jeep on themselves.

Good to hear. I also spoke to Tunehouse as they are the local EcuTeck master dealer, they had added a fair bit of whoosh to a few of them too, but interestingly only the high spec engine.....I've pretty much decided I'll go with the low spec engine for the much lower initial price and find out if the differences matter

Thanks for sharing the detailed write up Mick! I've moved it to the tutorials section

you'd be doing them a favour. the harder it is run in, the better for it's future life. bit risky brave of vw to give you a proper car as a loaner though, what if you start to enjoy cars without error lights?

Basically, you don't. Of course it is possible to get 10% more out of an NA car, but it is an expensive path. From there for sure you can get 50% if you go nuts with cams, headwork, capacity for....very expensive. Or you put a turbo on it an run 50% more for the same ballpark cost as the 10% more NA mods.

good to hear...although I suspect the labour is a significant part

Right here May the unicorn be with you!

said every driver, ever!

fair call.....you aren't modified if you don't have 1000hp these days

And he is a dirty liar....that accord has mods now too....

Well, the key thing is still your budget (and time, but you've said you don't have much), and the fact you are happy with the existing 300kw for now. If I were you I'd buy the 5k engine, sell the head (probably for 5k these days as its a 25 NEO), swap your head onto it and send it. Then, as funds allow, collect parts to rebuild your now spare bottom end properly.