Duncan

ahh good point...sorry haven't tried any falken semis. I have run their slicks, they were good for the price too.

its the production car category that I race in, there are 5 classes, he is in class A but didn't do qaulifying so had to start at rear of grid (40 cars back). Plenty of cars finished in front of him, mostly 4wd turbos eg emo Xs. the driving standards of course have been a point of frequent discussions....who needs repair bills.

I don't know those tyres, but their FZ201 are good dry tyres at a comparably very good price. I've run both the softs and mediums and both were good, although the softs obviously are for short runs only. I found the mediums terrible in the wet though.

we stayed at the bakehouse last time Eric, it was fine. In fact I've stayed pretty much everywhere in that damn town and the only places that were really not up to scratch were the Alipine Heritage Inn (really not like it sounds, but it was mostly Pete's snoring I think), and the Pelican Sheep Station. There are some places that are a bit expensive for what they are, so the smaller places like Bakehouse are good. Great to see you filled the day Pete....now book another one closer to the end of the year so I can have a go!

gone....someone got a bargain

Yes, you can do that. It is much easier on a trolley jack though. Firstly, make sure you have used a clutch aligning tool, and put a little grease on the spigot bush (in the end of the crank) and on the geaerbox's thrust bearing. Once you are ready to mate the two up, it is critical that the engine and gearbox are exactly straight, otherwise the engine will never ever go in. This means you need to drop the back of the gearbox down a long way to line up straight with the engine. As the 2 get closer together you may be able to use a long bolt or g clamp to pull together the last bit - but again make sure it is straight, don't force it. It is possible that the engine will foul on the engine mounts while doing this, if so remove them until the box is bolted on, then put them back in.

Thanks David, I'll put it in the post tomorrow morning.

well well well....look who it is. Good to see you're alive! By "trusted workshop" I'm assuming you mean somewhere different to who was doing the work previously....I have not heard them called "trusted" for years.

sorry I don't know, but an educated guess says the narrower edge should be towards the leading edge of the disc as it turns.

settle down rooster....I meant they are professionals at avoiding warranty claims

lol good thread. I might start the equivalent one in the v35 section and see what they have fit for me....various rb26s, or 2 mutts on their way to the beach not at the same time

they are professionals at this task, you are a first time amatuer. it's a shame their radiators are so damn good.

not shutdown at all mate, just trying to share what I've learned over years of running a race car, and watching other people trying to race/drift/rally seriously. the full on stuff is hgely expensive, but there are cheap ways to give your car a thrashing instead

as much as you decide to lay down really If a $35 texi is an issue funds wise, don't worry about looking to hard into any form of serious motorsport including drifting. They are all really hard on your car, and require heaps of maintenance between outings, not to mention entry fees, travel to and from venues, fuel etc. Just get out and give some motorkhanas and maybe hillclimbs a go - they are designed to be quick, cheap and fun for normal people with normal budgets. And then if you win lotto you can build a carbonfibre bodied r35 for time attack

really, noone has done these lately? looks like they are about $50 on ebay http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NISSAN-MAXIMA-BONNET-GAS-STRUTS-NEW-/330755667793?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d0292f751

sorry i stop at single entendre. double is too complex for me. just trying to make sure the tone of the stag section is as low as the forced induction bullshit section in time for school holidays one final tip, always lube the shaft before you put it into the bush, otrherwise it can be tricky for everyone.

damn straight. I learned a twin turbo 4l 350z, on semi slicks, in the wet, leaves the track surprisingly quickly

bump! So now I know how regassed long bonnets struts last....6 years apparently. Should I call the same guy I used 6 years ago, or is there are easier/cheaper place now?

I said bush. and hole.

AFAIK they all (skyline/silvia/stagea) use the same outer size bush. there are some differences in how high the bush sits above the subframe (causing a gap), and the r32 v r33/r34 bushes also have the centre hole offset in the bush. So...it is very likely stagea matches one of the other cars....but I have nfi which one. If I was guessing I would go r33 gtr.

Are the standard driveshafts the same length either side, and if not, have you got the correct ones on the correct sides? And the other obivous question is, anything bent or broken under there? What does a wheel alignment say?

they are genuine yokohama advan AVS wheels

Hi mate, they are a white, not pearl. As you can see in the stag pic they are a pretty bright white. Unfortunately they are on ebay now...and selling for whatever they go for in 6 days. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Set-4-AVS-17x8-wheels-suit-Skyline-Silvia-Stagea-many-others-/290734613185?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43b12222c1 BTW, if you think the price isn't good...same wheels, worse condition, being sold for $1000..... http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/17-x-8-9-AVS-Model-5-Rims-Wheels-Toyota-Soarer-Supra-/360389867969?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item53e8e8f9c1

Yep, I'll be out there, would be good to see some more stageas

excellent...where and when are you racing it? There are a couple of enduros as wll as various sprint rounds to try have you raced before?