Duncan

Auto Meter 5744-M Phantom Full Sweep Electric Pyrometer Gauge details here: http://www.autometer...search&gid=3300 Included: Gauge, thermocouple and wiring. All in working order. They retail for about $250 new. Price $100 pickup in Sydney, or post at buyer’s cost

out of interest, how much power do you think is being fed to the wheels under braking? That "review" was anything but credible, but hey, there is nothing like a famous developer's name and some internet hype to get some viral marketing, right? A transfer case rebuild will cost $1-2k depending on how bad the existing case is, plus remove and replace and fluids. Yes it can make an excellent different, particulary if the old one is in poor shape. It however also offers no adjustability like the controllers do. I think a controller for a couple of hundred bucks is the way to go for most street users, unless you have too much money to spend. Once you talk about maximum performance for track etc it is a different story - I would (and did) do both a rebuild and a controller. You can get controllers on ebay from $90 so it is a cheap bet: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GTR-Torque-Split-Controller-TSC-GTS4-GTS-4-RB26-Stagea-/110896719839?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19d1f5a7df

lol wrecker motors don't blow up, you know that Pete.....they just leak a little.

Good call pete, Marulan is a good place for a dirt cheap track day.

In

no problems, $50 with a free WB02 controller to be honest this is cheap to just stop it gathering dust. *edit* just saw why, the splitters retail for $99,999.99! http://wbo2.com/hw/splitter.htm

I spotted Craig. Long before he spotted me

actually, I always take flags seriously. If I see them through the red mist. BTW did you notice he almost caught that....rear grip came back just in time to spear him directly into the car.

good lap, but I suspect with new tyres there is still more in it. What are you thinking of running at superlap? And man does it pull, that must have been great fun. Re the sump, I have tried Trust, custom and Hi-Octane, and had a good look around the Gibson sumps. They are all pretty much the same thing, so go with any of them. None of them have kept my race motors alive more than a season at a time though.

Excellent work Russ, congratulations

Techedge 2A1 Wideband sensor controller. I was running this controller for years with no problems, butchanged the setup a while back, this has been gathering dust since What you get: A techedge 2A1 wideband o2 sensor controller. Includes onboard datalogging of the o2 sensor and up to 7 other sensors. Comes with an RJ45 splitter so you can connect a gauge and PC at the same time. New equivalent units are about $250. What you still need: An o2 sensor (Bosch LSU) and cable. Tech Edge sell them for about $150. What you probably want: An o2 sensor display. Tech Edge sell them for about $150. Price: $50, pickup in sydney. Willing to post at buyer's expense More info: http://wbo2.com/2a0/ , http://wbo2.com/2a0/2a1.htm

good work, goes to show how much damn work there is in a "bolt on" r34 front end too.

I watched a corvette with a serious case of dzus faster fail driving around mid ohio track without a front this morning

you know mad max?!?

If they are not meant to lower the car far, that could be normal. Old, soft springs on a heavy car may already have sagged somewhat over the years. In addition, new springs can take a couple of days or even a week to settle properly under the car's weight. Or, as Bob said it could be a difference in their mounting as well. I guess the question is whether you were after a look, or improved handling. If you just want it to look low and not handle cut a coil off the springs with an angle grider

my general thoughts are over here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/401959-tarzans-g-sensor/page__pid__6387897#entry6387897 But more specifically, I don't see any benefit in any attessa controller in a stagea. the controllers only bring 4wd on faster, and the c34 system has miles of front bias already I think.

Hadn't heard of it before, and I find it very had to believe it will give you a better outcome than Paul Ruzic's controller - which has the advantages of more tuning options and a digital display. Unless of course your gsensor is dead, in which case as a replacement at about 1/10th the cost of nissan, it would make great sense. Ultimately, a g-sensor change, or any attessa controller, will only allow you to tweak the hardware you already have. And the basic controllers are still very effective at that. BTW I'd also take the comments in the article with a grain of salt. For example, an attessa controller, and attessa for that matter, does absolutely nothing braking in a straight line - and yet this controller apparently made the car "more planted under brakes"/

these things can be a bit of a pain, especially for things which are on and off regularly. They can get sloppy and misaligned. There are other types of clips, or even consider bonnet pins for ease of use

Agreed - big tyres tramline like crazy. the stickier they are, the worse they tend to be. The only thing worth checking is the bushes and balljoints in the front, any additional movement there will make it worse. But basically....everyone just lives with this behaviour. You might also find your grip in the wet is reduced from before.

Considering an asking price of $60k and a claimed cost of $300k (and I'd guess a bit more), that is something of a bargain. I've never been able to understand the amounts of money being spent on "superlap" cars, and about 80% of the projects that start never finish. There would be a shitload of money owed to workshops across the country because of that event.

exactly what works for me

Hi mate, sorry there is no offset marked on them, and I've never measured them up. They do sit well in the guard as shown in the pics (stagea/skyline/silvia all have similar fitment, especially on the rear). They also clear large brakes OK, I was running 32 gtr/33 gtst brakes under them for a while. Huge brakes 324mm+ won't clear though, you'd need 18s for that. BTW, thanks for the bump, I do need to get rid of these, so they are off to ebay with a higher reserve if no-one wants them before the end of the weekend

not just my hands. I am a very dirty boy. BTW Bob, I like what you are doing with both the ADM and JDM. Definately not the normal route, but it is good to see. You are odds on to have one of very few unmodified cars going around.

here's some incar from the last SAU day there, about 3 months before it closed. I was alos lucky enough to be at the last race meet there, an iRace meet in January - I won the race so I must be a perpetual chamption there some other good memories from there: Got license there by tricking John Boston into beleiving I could drive. mauahahah The race car's first ever outing. And my first ever spun bearing. My first race. 8 woos on the short/nort ciruit. It was mayhem Cracking a sump at the dog leg by cutting a little too much watching Kel race Scott back when super sprints had standing starts....she shoved it right up the inside...no worries about panel damage from her! the china radiator John sold me falling out of the mounts and cooking a brand new motor with less than 100klm on it watching Neil take the radical there at night. in the rain. on slicks. Classic. 2x 1 hour enduros, both times running out of fuel about 5 minutes from the end. Plenty of crashes, including a special in the mighty daewoos where I managed to hit 3 sides of the same car, but keep going (those things were indestructible) Scraping the milk sign a few times UAS track days, used to be sooo many cars there, including a cappucino doing donuts My first pole, and leading the first few laps. Almost holding the damn quick BSM car out. Fatz drift days, at driftland! featuring the R31 with the PVC rollcage Being buried to the chassis rails at turn 2. Watching Mark trying to finish a lap on 3 wheels after the woo's right rear wheel bearing exploded Being run off the track in turn 1 by Peter Hennessey 42 car grids with touring cars and the mighty woos in together. The start was a bitch at the back of the grid - steep slope, and you couldn't see the start lights! Dan just scraping the end of the pit wall during a beautiful 3rd gear (or was it 4th gear) entry at the drift nats Seeing some kid break their arm at my second track day. Driver forgot to take turn 2, passenger braced their arm on the dash. Running a combined grid with Production Cars and Sports Sedans. Warning the SS guys that I would come by at the start but not hold them up. They laughed. I overtook all 8 of them at the start. l.o.l. Taking the gtst, gtr, stagea, zed, march, and yes, the saab convertible around there. Trying to do tyre changes in this crazy sloping pit lane. Can't put the handbrake on because it will sieze the rears, can't turn a turbo car off hot. PITA Seeing the BSM car drive out of the pits without the bonnet pins done up. Ouch. Then John did the same at the next event to the Z. The first superlap, SAU had one fo the corporate suites. Inlcuded a memorable turbo landcruiser Pete making a valiant attempt to drive the R31house drift car at the first Oz drift nats. The skidpan. By the end it was a deathtrap because it was in such bad conditions. But lots of great motorkhanas held there over the years. The SAU/Peter Finlay course. It was beautiful to see 8 gtrs lined up on the first 4 rows of the grid. And great to shove the saab down the inside of 5 of them in turn 1.

Night racing there was so much fun - I was lucky enought to do it twice over the years, it was an amazing experience.....aiming for a point in the dark that you are pretty sure was where the apex is. Sitting so damn close to the car behind you that all you can see is your headlights reflected back, impossible to judge distances for braking etc. And it made for great pics of brakes