Duncan

No, that sounds reasonably normal. Engines are almost always on vacuum (ie less than 0) because they suck air in. the more you open the throttle the more air they suck so the more vacuum you'll see. But with a turbo car of course, as it comes on boost it moves from vacuum (negative) to boooost (positive), but only when the engine is under load. Unfortunately that means that you need someone to watch the boost guage while you floor it for a while. Up a hill is best because boost builsd more quickly and the car accelerates more slowly.

glad to help out....those vents were a PITA as always, the rest went pretty smoothly

Most likely you've ended up with a reasonably bad boost leak....do you have a boost gauge, and if so what does it show. Go back around the whole job and check every hose is seated square, and every hose clamp is tight. The easy way to check a hose clamp is to push hard on the screw part - if it turns on the pipe it is too loose. But even if they are tight, the hoses have to be properly seated on the pipes, ie square on and good overlap

I got them through the NSW club - NTW has a great deal going for members They did help me out on price, I would expect retail on the softs to be around 300 in 235/4517 and hards 350-400. Roy what were you quoted for a full set, about 1600?

Pete, you're a f**king poet, and you didn't know it.

ok...+1 point to Gary's Bilsteins for having the allen key bit...makes that a lot easier. Is the knock exactly the same, or better, since tightening? The next most likely place for a knock is the top mount itself. As they wear, they allow movement between the shaft and the strut top/mount. Do you re-use the original strut tops, or put in an aftermarket/pillow ball top? You may need to replace them. Next most likely is a suspension arm bush, probably the top arm bushes. Get a long pry bar behind them and see how far they move when you push them, hard.

agreed...it's not impossible it is a wheel bearing, but they are a damn good design and wear very well, even under track use. eg I am still running the original factory ones in the race car. Usually, wheel bearings only make a noise when they are the loaded side, so you will hear it from the outside in corners. It is at least 10x more likely to be the suspension top nut. It is really hard to pick visually when it is loose because the spring almost always has some preload on it, making it look tight. DEpending on the shock you may be able to tighten it with hand tools - some have an allen key socket on the top, or a small flat on the shaft to put a spanner on to stop it turning. If so you are in luck

Firstly, you are right, the disc is floating. So the fact one moved a little and the other didnt is just random and not your issue. Also worth noting that pretty much any bush/balljoint etc problem won't really turn up just by a push by hand. What you really need is to get a big pry behind them and try hard to move them. Keep in mind each of those bushes regularly holds 500kg+ By far the most likely cause of the noise is your suspension strut. They all have a nut on the top which can cause a knocking if they loosen up. Get a rattle gun onto it and see if it is tight, it should be easily accessible on the front (rears are a different story). You can't tighten it with a socked because the whole shaft will turn

So, what's news Wayne?

So, Andrew, how does it drive?

I ran the FZ201 softs at Sutton Rd last weekend, they were outrageously good.

the world's funniest track incar is still Russ and the brakes....

that's Rod Thorpe from our prod cars category, and that's the second time he's posted up video of his amazing driving - and the second time he has hit the side of Shaw's car in turn 1.

yeah there were no issues, everything bolted over fine. Just lots to do. BTW, mine had a spun big end bearing, no knock at idle, only when revving. it looked like tinsel inside the sump. you would never believe where bearing material can get to..... I have also lost the turbos 100% of the time I have re-used them from a motor with a spun bearing within a few thousand klm. These turbos I cleaned out like crazy, as best I could without disassembling, and they have been OK for 500klm so far. Still far to early to call it a success though. Also, I changed the oil and filter after 50 and 500klm as well. You can't be too cautious when the turbs are worth 1500+ to rebuild

first post updated

the long motors are all the same, in fact I just put a 33 motor in my 32. You will have to watch out for diff ratio and CAS if you use a 34 motor, and some wiring differences if you use a 33 or 34 motor. In either case just swap across the gear from your 32 motor. Assuming it has a f**ked bearing, do not re-use anything from the old motor that had oil in it. Or if you feel brave, stuff like the turbo oil feed and return, and the turbo cores themselves may be useable with a really good clean (probably not). Never ever reuse the oil/water interchanger under the oil filter, you will never get the inside of the oil part clean.

They apparently have an annoying external beep so that the sight imparied can tell which car hit them Range is absolutely a non-issue. You go to the garage in the morning, unplug the charger, drive your 10-50klm to work in crap traffic, park it, drive 10-50klm back home in crap traffic, put it back in the garage and charge it over night. That is what 80% of people do with their petrol cars every day. The occasional longer or more complex trip just says you should have another car, eg a rb25/30 Stagea. Or, if that is not an option join Goget or similar or just hire a car if required. Thanks for the experience Dobz, I was wondering how that would be. I had enough trouble maintaining speed with the CVT cube - it is amazing how much we rely unconciously on sound to maintain speed.

haha silent skids will be funny. I'm not worried about the approval, more whether the car is any good or not. They have not made any available for a drive yet, and like the GTR will only be available from "special" nissan dealers I really can't see heaps of people buying these and then getting stuck without a charge? Everyone understands not to run out of petrol, I'm sure electric car drivers will remember to charge them first.

I'm going through that process at the moment. Still haven't driven the damn car yet, and I sure as hell won't buy it if it doesn't drive well.... While its a bit over the top, I don't have an issue with the idea that they are checking suitability.

well, I surely know who was leaking water, and that won't happen again

I rescued 2 parts of 2 runs from the corrupted video files: 1/ it is probably a good idea to make sure there is some coolant in the car before running: 2/ the quick run, but the bloody video is cut off about 2/3 through

hmmm saved some of both files with this. http://grauonline.de/cmsimple2_6/en/?Solutions:HD_Video_Repair_Utility Still pretty damn annoying. Interesting that some people are having no trouble with their units....I paid more and bought locally, so I might see if the seller can help resolve the issue.

lol sideways cam shows serious face. yeah my youtube was still uploading but is there now

FJ720, great run in the micra, I reckon you wrung pretty much everything it had out of it Luke, don’t worry too much about the hoses, just buy decent clamps. And the wider ones are not better.....narrower ones clamps harder. Excellent driving James, that was damn good car and throttle control…it has more than enough power for such a tight course. And the camber and toe changes you can see on the rear facing camera are terrifying, I can see why Nissan moved on from semi trailing rear arms. Ben….lol thanks for posting up that video….you can tell the “before I looked at the temp gauge” and “after I looked at the temp gauge”. I took a quick look just before the jumps, saw “H+++” and backed off Ran much cooler after I put some water in the radiator though Mick…those tyres were f**king excellent. Please don’t tell anyone about them. Only 1 video made it, the same horrible run Scott’s guys got, it was about 1.29 (tip, 3rd gear is not quicker through the last corner ) I welded my clutch onto the flywheel with my last launch, I guess you could argue that raising the rev limit to 8,500 just for the launch was a little unwise. Made it interesting to get on and off the trailer, and move around the yard – thanks to Ben, Zebra and Prue for helping load it up afterwards

really unimpressed with the Radcam I have - if you lose power without turning off the video, the resulting file is corrupted. I lost 2/3 of the runs on the weekend, including the quickest ones. Radcam fail, buy something else.