Duncan

someone's mum will be happy to have a custom loom in her shopping car BTW also, externally mounted anderson connector for jumping and charging

Did this go ahead futher, and what was the approximate price? Some other things worth allowing for: Accessory power for rally safe/terra trip/camera power supply. Seperate circuit, battery, wiring for intercom (no interferance) Seperate circuits for everything to ensure one dead one doesn't kill others. Power for boost controller, power steering, dash/gauges, lap timer Horn circuit, power windows, heated screen required for rally cars Fuel level sender and warning light

I need links dammit!

done, and done. probably lots of other ones I have missed too.

hmmm yes that took a lot longer than I hoped....need to get some real work done now. just post up links if anything else should be moved over

The Motorsport section has undergone a New Year's cleanup with the following changes: Moved the Timeslip Registry thread to Drift and Drag section instead of it's lonely old subsection Moved all "Club Motorsport" section threads to Motorsport and removed the subforum. There were very few posts there Created a "Motorsport Builds" section, I am happy to receive nominations for threads to move into there. New topics in that section will require moderator approval. The regular Build forum still exists and is the correct place to post road car builds We are moving some of the threads in this section to the new one over the next few days based on a reasonably quick check; If you beleive your thread is in the wrong forum, please contact a moderator of either section and we will review it. Generally, cars with some or all of the following will be approved in or moved to the Motorsport builds section Not daily driven or registered Roll cage Stripped Log booked SAU has a strong motorsport community, and the motorsport build section is *not* just about skylines. Any make, model and motorsport discipline is welcome in here. We also understand you cannot race a car without support from the industry, and you are welcome to mention your sponsors. However, the usual trading rules apply, and non-SAU trader workshops posting customer cars or build threads which focus heavily on promoting their workshop will be closely monitored, and may be removed at the moderators' discretion Happy building!

soooo....turns out they are all back now, the Motorsport Build section has been created and populated today.....get posting http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/forum/272-motorsport-builds/

I remember this thread. Engine is being put back together at the moment after some other projects took priority. But I've learned not to estimate dates any more I need to get the ute rebuilt first anyway

We have decided to further refine the "Builds" sections and have split it into two: This forum remains the place to post up threads for street driven cars which covers the majority of build threads. We have added a new "Motorsport Builds" forum for dedicated motorsport cars from any discipline. http://www.skylinesa...orsport-builds/ We are moving some of the threads in this section to the new one over the next few days based on a reasonably quick check; If you beleive your thread is in the wrong forum, please contact a moderator of either section and we will review it. To be notified by email of new threads in either section: Navigate to the forum you want to follow Select the "Follow" button Chose the notification type You will then get an email for each new topic that is posted in the forum Happy building!

I love one make racing, did a few seasons a couple of years back and it was by far the closest and most enjoyable I've done. Unfortunately I can't see the critical mass for a skyline series, if you are serious about giving something a go try the pulsar series.....cheap cars (cheap panels), nice and close, sounds like a great concept

yep that's what I meant....link them here and I can move them.

Yeah the rotors probably could have lasted a bit longer but I bought them all together (little cheaper) and did them all together (little faster). They have lasted very well considering the abuse. Retail for the discs is $599 and pads $269 at just jap. Thanks Carbon 34 for the extra tips too. And no I haven't had legality issues but then my car looks like a boring volvo....on what basis were you told they were not OK? Generally an upgrade is fine although I guess you could be asked to get an engineering cert for them? BTW I agree, a good rule of thumb is to use 75% of the specified (dry) torque if you are greasing a bolt.

lots of space when there is no driveshaft going to the hub eh? Interesting the shape of that final duct, I bet they have done a lot of testing about how much air to aim directly at which part of the disc vs how much to direct at the centre

It's good advice...but if you have to pay to remove and replace the gearbox as well it will cost $500-$1000 to do so, and your car is off the road. Worn synchros are very common in a 15-20yo gear box, can be reasonably confidently diagnosed based on symptoms, and there is a cheap band-aid (ie specific oils) that can mask it for years before a full build is required.

The 330mm D2 kit is the safe bet, they will fit under most 17s. If you want the 355 you will need 18s, the TE37 design is great for caliper clearance and should not be an issue. Really, the question should be what size tyres do you want to run (17s are much cheaper than 18s) then choose the wheel, then choose the larger or smaller brakes to suit. Either kit will be fine unless you use the brakes more than you need to Brad, we need pics of the other side of the rotor...I'm willing to bet the vent runs to the centre of the disc not the outside face, but that's not how it looks in those pics

Great way to start the year mate, good luck.

Sounds great, I'll be there Thanks Terry for organising this.

+1 have a great year everyone....I'm happy to leave 2012 behind

meh, I reckon it will be fine. slow yes, but no slower than the average ute or 1t truck dragging stuff around. And the chasis is up to it. I have no idea of the legality or otherwise so you should check that out....in NSW the law used to be the tow car had to weigh more than the load being towed (plain dumb), but now it says you can tow up to the manufacturer's recommendation. And since in the case of imports the RAWS is considered the manufacturer that could be tricky. you haven't seen a slow tow until you've tried to pull a GTR up Mt Buller with a 2.4l carby navara

ahh here it was

Thread locked, it's value to the community is unclear.

link doesn't work? But....if I remember correctly it mentions Nick's Green Stagea....which goes to show just how many internet fads come and go over the years

honestly mate, the best thing you can do for crunchy gears is shift a bit slower. Stop for a fraction in the centre of the gate before selecting the gear and it will pop straight in no crunch changing to another oil (I used redline for years) can reduce the symptom but increases the issue over time, and the only real fix is a gearbox reco at $1k-$2k.

interesting deals being offered from Nissan on the leaf at the moment. You can buy at $55k with 0% finance. Or $47k cash. Goes to show the value that they put on 0% finance vs their usual rates over 3 years. And FWIW banks don't come anywhere near dealer rates unless you have some existing/larger relationship already with the bank. BTW, great thread. There has been a real increase in lowballers with the ease of sitting down with websites and a mobile for a few hours a day. Maybe 1 person in a hundred was desperate enough to sell for that asking price....but even so it was worth the buyer's time making all those calls.

that's not a waste of time....it's just a quick answer for the next person that has this problem and searches