Duncan

Ahh OK, now I understand. Makes more sense too Well, I've seen it done 3 ways: Unplug the switch in the dash Unplug the wiring to the globe Cut the power wire for the light. Depending on the original compliancer's level of laziness it could be any. Certainly there is no "official" way to disable them, they just can't work after compliance. I would start with the engine bay, simply because it is easiest. There will be 2 sets of wires going to the headlight, one for the main, one for the fog lights. Most likely the second is unplugged or cut. Sorry I don't have my car handy here to check, it is in original JDM spec as it was never complied

Unlikely that they bothered with seperate wiring....so if you pull the adm dash is there still plugs in place? Does the ADM have the switches or a blank.

BTW, anyone who has standard power up to "usual" mods or even higher....don't read all this and think you need to spend money on brakes. If you are getting fade with anything under about 300+kw at Wakefield, what you really need is better tyres, less braking, and more corner speed. So instead of eyeing off that $8k AP racing kit, buy a set of semi slicks like federal fz201 instead.

people almost always use the compound of the rear pad to even out inherant inbalances in the braking system. In my case I can't even remember what was in the rear, some pagids or sbs I guess, but they are much less aggressive. In a reasonably standard skyline brake system I would put something less aggressive in the front. If you want to stay with hawk I would go HT-10.

hmm i think the car is the problem there....but the good news is blown turbo means no more excuses to keep the standard one. It will wake right up if it has more than 150rwkw.....

you won't cause any damage hooking the lines around the wrong way (I'd know lol)

Yes I have, and they were the best (ie most effective) race pads I have used, they are top notch. Under the old race rules we had to run standard brakes, so I had to try heaps of different pads to find the ones that work best. I stopped looking after I tried the Hawk DT60. Those are Hawk HT60 on the front.... I got mine from Matt at Race Brakes Sydney for a good price. I understand Neil is also running these in his race car too.

I'll be doing putty rd again, it's a good day out.

That's what I did. Just be absolutely certain engouh thread remains....I go by 1.5x the width of the thread.

That's pretty much the same warranty experience I had from the tiida and dualis car company with my old 350z. Nissan Australia don't know how to treat valuable customers. Just stick with the aftermarket, you will get much better quality mechanics who actually know what they are doing.

civic sounded great heading past the pits with the throttle flat. probably needs a turbo to make it go as quick as it sounds

umm Just Jap have had a race/rally R35 in the country for about 5 years....if it is still in tarmac rally spec it will be very speed challenged compared to the big $$$ r35s getting around, those regs allow very few changes.

it records sound ? dammit! next time I'll use my cooler voice. I think I did say before Bodella, but your feel for grip and willingness to listen and learn were excellent for a first time out. That second video actually covers all three tricky tuns for first timers. In turn 1/2, you need to roll through the middle of the track (not the apex) in turn 1, brake hard in a straight line, then tip into the corner. The exit opens out much more than you would think. In turn 9 (the fish hook), it does depend a bit on which car and tyres, but what works well for skylines is a double apex - one early, the run to mid track, then one very late. 3rd gear if you can, 2nd gear if you must because it drops off boost. And in turn 11 (last turn) the trick is to turn in much later than you would expect. It is the most important corner to get right for lap times because it leads onto the straight....every extra 10klm/h out of that corner will literally make up a second for the lap. If you are understeering on the exit (or understeer to oversteer if you have a 32 GTR), you turned in too early. BTW, re MIchelin Pilot Sports....I know they are dirt cheap thru Tyrerack, but there is a reason no-one uses them. Don't bother, save a little more and buy federal fz201 through the club instead (or if you feel rich, cough up $550+ per corner for yoko A050R or dunlop DZ03J). Also, as Ben will confirm...s.tay away from toyo 888 on heavy cars (they are pretty good on light cars like mx-5)

BTW...keep in mind that heaps of boost down low means it is very frequently on boost. Hard on the turbo and terrible for fuel economy. And absolutely hilarious to drive.

And I prefer alloy hub rings. Plastic ones seem to do the job but are likely to break if the wheels are on and off regularly. I'm sure either works fine once the wheel is on, because like a dowel, they only locate the wheel, not hold it. Also, make sure there is a slight taper at the top of the ring to help fitment.

Which confirms that the local repco or similar is a good idea They are standard sizes, just double check how many of each. Also there are a couple of plugs on the rear of the block and in the head as well

I fitted a z32 AFM (dead easy BTW), and blew up a china turbo.

Yeah I do have an update actually. Blew the seals on the china turbo again while towing yesterday, I've reached my budget of 4 dead china turbos before moving to a proper BB core. I did put the cost of the expensive turbo off 3 years though. In my case I think the main issue is that the china turbo is only oil cooled, and the turbo works damn hard while lugging a 2t car + 2.5t trailer. No regrets, but it's time to move to something water cooled. Andrew, I don't think you will get 20psi at 3000rpm to give you 300kw. Happy to be surprised though. The china turbo gave me 18psi @ 2500 for 250awkw max. I guess a good ball bearing core will come on boost a few hundred rpm sooner but that's all.

It was an excellent day, weather-wise it was as good as Goulburn ever does....sunny, cool, horrible cold wind that you only notice if you weren't in the car. Is it true this was the first SAU track day not to feature a spun bearing?

I spotted Bodella hooning around Wakefield park today...doing a great job for first time out.

don't be shy Nick, grab someone for a few sessions for pointers, it can make a big difference to how you approach the track.

No probs Eric and Matt, see you on the dummy grid. Weather looks good for tomorrow....fine, cold start, nice day/not too hot

No problems Ryan, white stagea drivers are a priority anyway. Matt and Pete...less talk, more track day. Did your car come up healthy Pete?

haha I don't boot it until I get out of Lane Cove Tunnel....you must have seen me cruising

I'll be down for the day, I'm not driving but am available for instruction. If anyone would like some pointers, grab me for a session - I'll be around the dummy grid or flag point somewhere.