Duncan

umm Brad that is already sold, you can't sell it again.

yes you will be able to hear the relay click, it is over on the passenger A pillar near the door sill. while it's not normal, it is possible that the alarm kills power to the computer. But even so the alarm would not immobilise immediately that you turn off the car, so it won't be that. I just checked on the stagea, the PFC hand controller turns off when the eccs relay does, about 1 sec after turning off the ignition. BTW the eccs relay un-earths the computer, it doesn't cut the power.

haha good research....only a little hurt that you left my national championship off And it makes the point that nothing nissan is doing much at all at the serious level of motorsport. The 2 winners you listed were 1x rwd and 1x 4wd....and both in the strange world of IPRA racing. The fact remains, a 33 gtst is an excellent choice for a track car - cheap to buy, easy to find bits, easy to power up, can run large tyres for it's size, double wishbone all round unlike the S chassis.

well for that matter, show me the list of nissans (2wd or 4wd) that have won a national or state champs in the last 5 years?

I would have to check when the screen turns off, but the ECU must turn itself off using the ECCS relay otherwise it won't save settings first. In the race car, if I turn off the car using the kill switch instead of the key it never saves data for that reason. But if you are using the standard wiring that should not be the issue

Yes, unfortunately a perfectly healthy wet style battery can die from a single flattening (is that even a word?). I'd start by swapping in a different battery.

to be honest I don't mind that rule so much, although it may be a PITA to meet. Because I like being able to walk.

Exactly right, you can drive a roadworthy, unregistered car to an inspection station for a pink slip check. A booking is a good idea. Roy, is the car unregistered in the current state? Are you looking to register it now? Is it complied? Steve-o, you can't use a trade plate to get a car registered. They are only for the use of a licensed motor dealer, which I don't think you or Roy are.

Dammit. Alan, I never would have fitted an undercar surge tank to the rally car unless I was 100% happy about how far it sits above the chassis rail. Anything that hits the tank is going to bash a lot of other bits firs

OK they all sound good....to be honest I thought a backwards doof would sound like food Star33...I did not replace the a piller speakers, I was only replacing the door ones because they had phyiscally died...was not really after the ful sik-est sounding car around.

that bit's cool, the + and - are clear on the speaker. I just don't know about the car's loom. Should I just check continuity to earth from each wire?

Thanks Adam. All 4 speakers *sounded* OK. What do you mean exactly by checking the polarity. I assume neither the negative will have 100% continuity to earth/chassis, nor would the power have 100% 12-14v when measured to chassis/earth?

you said nipple! we need pics

Thanks for all the advice guys. I hit repco's 30% off speaker sale and bought 6"x 2way pioneer for the rear, and 6"x 3way pioneer for the front. About $150. The 6" rear fit straight in with the 4 screws on the speaker into the factory plastic mounty thing. Just needed to join the 2 wires up to thee factory plug. The front was a pita. The factory speaker is built into the plastic framey thing which meant either bolt the new speaker straight to the door, or cut up/modify/re-use the factory mount. I did the latter because I figure nissan knew more than me about speaker mounting and design. Took some stuffing around and use of self tappers to mount it....at least no-one will ever see that butchery. And the wiring was also a pain because I wanted to retain the factory wiring plug which was built into the mounting frame - more stuffing around with the soldering iron. Does polarity matter in speakers? I wasn't aware it did, but the kit mentioned + and -....so I connected the blackest wire in each pair to the speaker (-). All works fine. As for sound quality....I can conclusively confirm they sound better than 4x 20yo factory speakers (including one rooted one).

Unless your cooling is already a problem in street use, I can't see this causing a problem - there is still a big fan and heaps of places for air to come and go. Don't forget most cars have large undertrays these days, 32 gtr certainly had one, i am not sure about 32 gtst.

how did you come to the conclusion that the xfer case is stuffed? what are the symptoms.

which category does the car race in, or is this for road use only. In either case, assuming it doesn't seal the whole engine bay, I can't see it being an issue. I guess it would be too thin for rally use at 3mm.

lol maybe it is even slower than Dec bookings...they gave the club a good deal for the Dec day. Can someone convince Neil to take Cheryl to Marulan in late Jan?

lol this thread is as regular as xmas.

talk neil into being the gineau pig. cheryl needs a surge tank to deal with those 150 mighty kw.

yeah, that is another bonus. My race car was never complied so no bloody restrictor. I don't think they are required now days as leaded fuel is long forgotten

+1, that has ben the cause of every "fueling leaking out the cap on the track" that I've seen.

Yeah I run one under the car that looks stragely similar. It's the only sensible way to do it....why would you want fuel lines running around the boot, especically in a targa car where you might be throwing spare wheels/tools/etc around in there. Dirt cheap because you just run a standard or 040 or similar pump in the tank and an 044 or 023 under the car. The only thing I forgot is you still run out of fuel with a surge tank if you empy the fuel tank . It made it much further without surging though

I've often had a squealing/high pitched screaming noise from the front passenger side

For a different perspective on life.....when Flame cam became Fail cam.... And finally....how not to overtake at turns 1 and 2....no names to protect the guilty