Duncan

Can I check what you mean by "locking up"? Do you mean they suddenly stop turning, or that you have full 4wd? If the latter, this sounds strangely like yesterday's question....

Yep, that car has either had a very careful restoration, or has not seen a lot of roads in its life, good find! In terms of next steps to modify it, like niZmO_Man said there is a lot of info on here, but some thoughts. Firstly; are you sure you to start modifying a mint, probably stock and certainly very expensive car? Don't get me wrong, your car, your choice, but there would be cheaper places to start if you want to end up with a modified GTR and it is almost certainly more valuable standard. Assuming 550hp means around 400 Australian wheel kw, HKS turbos (second assumption, you mean GT-SS III, I'm not sure about their whole, current range) will not get you there and recent posts suggest they are laggy compared to a modern ball bearing single. If you want to stick with twin turbos and get close to that power you want, the tried and tested "-5" Garrets (which I think might have a new name now, but they are specific for GTR twin fitment) with about 20psi boost should get close. When you say "standalone" I guess you mean ECU, if not you need to add that to your plans; go with any modern ECU that your tuner is comfortable with. I'd agree that all of that is at the limit of a good condition standard engine, keeping in mind that is about 3x the power the car was released with. It would be smarter to rebuild the engine first with forged pistons and rods, new bearings/rings/seals etc and replace that "nismo" oil pump with a tomei or nitto one including an extended crank collar.

The other thing that comes to mind is a failed g sensor, but it might be tricky to swap it for a different unit if there are not a lot of other GTRs around

hmmm, well l can see from dash gauge that it is trying to engage ATTESSA at a weird time. Can you confirm the 4wd light turns on with the ignition key and then turns off again (not on or blinking) after you start the engine, ie ATTESSA ECU does not think it has an error? Do you know anything specific about how the Motec and stock ECU are wired in? Per page CH-66 of the manual, ECU pins are meant to be wired to ATTESSA and some aftermarket ECUs do not fully allow for that (although I guess Motec is a full custom wire in anyway). ECU 37 (RPM) to ATTESSA 31 ECU 56 (TPS) to ATTESSA 47 ECU 30 (TPS earth reference) to ATTESSA 48

Lots of external stuff could cause a problem, it looks like lots of light pinging rather than massive hits which can also damage the head, crack ring lands even spin rod bearings. Fuel pump would be worth replacing if it is original and get the injectors cleaned and tested too. Is it a stock ECU? Once the rebuilt engine is in you should run it in on a dyno to check everything.

I'd suggest getting your hand behind the ETC unit in the lower dash and seeing if you get any errors from the car if it is unlplugged, then just leave it there; it is integrated in the dash facia and not in the way (or line of sight). With the antenna, are you sure it is for the ETC? That will be much harder to get behind and unplug, you will need to work our how it is affixed (might just be tape, might me more solid...) And, I don't know the story about v37 australia sat nav (or english conversion for that matter). There used to be a bunch out of Estonia (or maybe Russia, it was never that clear) that swapped Japanese for English hardware but they are gone. As the screen is so integrated with the car functions these days it is no longer simple to change out for an aftermarket head unit. If you cared enough, a local Infiniti Q50/Q60 screen would probably fit and work.

The Link will run ethrottle just fine

FYP

Right, so if the warning comes from the car that will continue without the ETC (unless you can find a setting to turn it off in the nav screen). If the warning comes from the ETC just unplug it

Second thing first, I'm really not sure what is on the bottom of the intake valves, carbon build up is not normally white. Also, I hope the cams are still in because some of those valves are open (if not, valve stems are bent). Depending on your plans other than a new head gasket, it is a good time to get a head job anyway; even if it is only a factory spec rebuild at least all your stem seals, valve guides and valve seats will be good. New springs are a good idea in an older engine that will be pushed as well. Head shop will tell you what is happening on the valves For the piston, I don't think that is normal but it's hard to tell as that is very close up. Is there only one piston that looks like that, and how does the matching head chamber look....I'm concerned it might be pinging lightly but for a long time. And yes, some idea of the klm on the engine might help.....overall the pistons look super clean (or is that just a flash making it look silver?) which is unusual in a factory engine after all this time.

Good progress, back on the dirty side though:) I guess the boost doc water fitting / AN converter is press in, do they recommend a sealant?

I hadn't considered buying new they are reasonably well available through yahoo japan for late model examples...I'm sure they will be the same between the 2 models.

Hi mate, there are a couple of other hybrid owners here who can share their experience too. One thing before buying an old hybrid (as I did), you should get the battery voltages checked before you buy as it is a $5K+ to replace the battery (plus the difficulty of getting a battery from Japan to Aus, assuming that is where you are). Consult or other good scan tools can check the battery voltage when fully charged. My experience with the hybrid has been excellent; between both motors it is a suitably quick car (280kw) for my daily use and the car itself is super comfortable and has all luxury toys you would expect from Nissan's flagship at the time, plus it was very good value (I paid about $30k for mine) However....having said that, I have had a major issue with the hybrid system and as a result mine has been off the road for months, mostly because I have another car and don't work on fixing it every day. Basically I got hit in the rear coming onto the freeway and the car spent a while at the smash repair. When they were finished it would not start, turns out the 12v battery had died (potentially crash damage), then the hybrid battery kept trying to charge it until it was flat too, at which point it didn't have enough power to start the engine to recharge the battery and I was stuck. I'll post up the full story (once it is finished), but in summary I had to remove the pack and charge it manually, and had some (user error) problems doing that So.....100% I would still buy the hybrid, they are great value for the price, but there is some risk involved due to lack of local nissan/infiniti support

It would be easier to have an opinion with pics I took the one out of my stagea years ago (yes, that car has some dash holes from that and other things over the years. The one in the Cima was built in and occasionally failed, causing japanese lady in the back to shout at me every now and then, but I just considered that "character"

Glad you are happy with your choice, do you have a dyno graph to share (and, what dyno was it on?) My direct experience is 20+ years racing on journal bearing turbos due to class rules, and watching those with modern BB singles on the same motor driving away in a straight line, is your experience one dyno pull? I'd expect that coming to the forums and telling everyone their experience is "nonsense" will get you a bit of push back.

cnc valve seats and clearance the head for big cams? It kind of depends which head you have, and what your current/potential future plans are. Any idea why the valves are leaking? Have you ever had a timing issue?

It was very high tech Officeworks A3 scanner at 300dpi black and white, then stitch each A3 scan together manually in paint. It has worked pretty OK, you can see the folds in some early scans but I back folded the later ones and they were OK

You are best to look up the part number for yours, and then check the part number for other years and see if they match. If they don't match, when you look up the old part# on a parts site like amayama, it will give you the "supersession chain" which is the later part number that is interchangeable with yours

OK, so if you haven't seen in the first post, per GTSBoy's suggestion I have done high res scans form the original printed manual (instead of the photocopy which is not the same quality) Zip file of the all diagrams (excludes Oz specific, they are in the first post if you need them) R32-wiring-hi-res.zip C-1 Logical Wiring diagram (better for understanding) W-1 Physical Wiring diagram (if you are trying to physically trace something) RB26DETT Physical wiring diagram W-3 ATTESSA physical wiring W-4 Door physical wiring W-5 HICAS physical wiring W-6 Air con physical wiring

Yep, 90A is just the maximum it can put out, going slightly higher output than standard won't cause problems

Try Hooks at Barrell Bros, he is a skyline guy from way back

I guess they were trying to say the "clock spring" failed, it is the electronic part that let you have wiring in a wheel that turns connected to a steering column that doesn't. The steering wheel airbag won't be working (there will be a procedure you can check with the flashing light to confirm) You can get the specific part number for your car from one of the parts sites like amayama using your VIN#, it will vary depending on model, air bag system, cruise control or not etc. The part lives between the steering wheel and the column. Repair isn't difficult but brand new part is pricey if you can't find second hand

wow, big job to replace then repair! So I can't remember in a 33 GTST, but in a 32 the fog light button turns on the fog lights and tail lights...sounds dumb but you'd be surprised how many times it has caught people out. Assuming you are sure that it is not that, I don't think you can trust colour matching. But in any case you need to start by pulling every fuse until one or more of those issues are fixed, there are very few unfused circuits (eg alternator and starter) so you will be able to narrow it down. Then you need to trace the loom for those circuits, I can't think of any short cut. Reverse lights send the positive power through the gearbox switch so that might help a little in that case. In 32 the fog lights/dash/tail lights positive all go through the dash switch but I'm not sure if that is the same in 33.

What a specific question I am pretty sure the rule of thumb is that your maximum HP is restrictor diameter x10hp....therefore you should should size your turbo for max 380hp (ie, tiny/fast spooling). Unless you follow the tried solution of an accidental air leak downstream from the restrictor of course

Hi Denis, per earlier in this thread (and there is similar info elsewhere), it is unlikely you can get factory seals and clips and will have to go generic replacement. Even if you can get hold of all of the factory moulds the clips that hold them in are not available and yours are almost certainly broken by now. So, all you need is a competent installer who can fit generic seals. The last 2 times I had the seals done, they were not done correctly and came loose (1st time) and are fitted fully but don't sit very well (2nd time). Sorry there doesn't seem to be a better solution out there. Of course, if your retaining clips are not amazingly broken, you can try and refit the factory trims.