Duncan

Slim was a great man....his actions have given me lots of free beer over the years.

finally did some work on the poor neglected stag today. Switch for the boost controller New aerials for the tv (works good) Speedo corrector for the nifty nismo dash Didn't work out why the reverse lights aren't working....next time.

It's funny because it's true

yeah I'm sure it is possible to get similar or even better results out of an rb25 neo head, but I mean for 95% of people. rb26 bolt ons are easy and cheap and plentiful for anywhere from 250-400kw. getting the same power out of an rb25 will cost more, but is certainly not impossible. If we're talking about building a full house motor, go for it, the sky's the limit! But I guess that's not really OP's question.

Personally I wouldn't consider the bearings only option in an rb. Those little bearnig flecks are going everywhere your oil does, including turbo cores, oil pipes, tiny head oil feed, even smaller cam oil feeds etc etc. I'd have it all disassembled and thoroughly clean. I'd do it to my ute's motor, but not my GTR's one

Jarrad, just flush your fluid out and put rbf600 or similar top quality fluid in. the a1rm pads are fine for your use and power. what you really need is better tyres and to work on technique - brakes make you go slower, not faster. Grab me at the next trackday and we can have a look at how you are attacking the corners. the swaybars will help heaps too, very good choice to upgrade those. also, get a wheel alignment if you haven't had one done for a while. Nothing track specific, just make sure everything is straight and consistent. Lots of things you could do if you wanted to take it all further, but if the car may be leaving just do the little bits and enjoy it

lol that would have been fun. did you ask them to stay off the curbs next time?

both people I know that tried this had challenges, try and contact Stu at Bezerkly or Brad at Pro-fabrications

the rb26 will have a lot more potential for power in the future if you think that might be a factor. But either will be good fun....I went the rb30+manual route on mine and it is brilliant

I don't know why he's not getting back to you, but I'm sure he hasn't disappeared with your money. Hang tight.

lol I probably have spent enough on the car over the years (engines at least) to be there. It is a good chance to have a beer or 10 with people from all over the place.

Don't worry about lap times, entrants should have to provide receipts proving they have spent enough on the car to be accepted.

Umm, already confirmed it will be a Fuga (or whatever the numnuts at nissan call it when they try to sell it here under the relaunched inifinity brand). BTW boring race today. And my new favourite team, the Kelly Bros, sucked /goes to wash mouth out

Brand new cooler, both fittings broke off on first use, no refund? Pretty open and shut, try once more then take it to fair trading. Only questions I'd have are were the hoses supported well or able to move around fatiguing the joint? And when the fittings were done up was a second spanner used on the cooler end to make sure it doesn't twist. Crap summer to be doing skids in a high power car, eh?

Brand new cooler, both fittings broke off on first use, no refund? Pretty open and shut, try once more then take it to fair trading. Only questions I'd have are were the hoses supported well or able to move around fatiguing the joint? And when the fittings were done up was a second spanner used on the cooler end to make sure it doesn't twist. Crap summer to be doing skids in a high power car, eh?

+1, and I totally agree with ben too. 8 tyres means: More cost Bigger crashes (yes, you'll be going faster when you come off) More likely to have a major safety incident between stages (tyre changes in unsafe locations) Where is the upside? Pick a slower tyre that would last the whole event, and if you get unlucky and have a puncture....well since when has a rally not included luck?

yes, just drop the higher speed dash in. It is calibrated to read as required from the standard sender. You will of course need to cut the speed input to the ECU or swap ECUs to get around the 180 speed limiter....not that it matters on a public road.

where is yellow/purple? limited edition gunmetal grey is my favourite factory colour

same with every jdm gtr I've seen. only 1 VIN stamped, plus the VIN plate of course. Various versions of the vin stamping and plates for the Oz compliance though depending on how/who/when it was done

+1, and it is reasonably common. was your timing belt ever replaced? BTW while I agree with Sean, have the crank checked for run out before putting it all back together....because another possibility is a bent crank which means your bearings will be rooted shortly.

Yeah HART is a good little facility, I did a motorkhana there with the Honda club years ago. Not sure that it is available for external bookings any more, and I'm sure they wouldn't appreciate wastegate open skids. The Nirimba TAFE skidpan is excellent IMHO - cheap, easy, big, and don't cause us problems like some places do

This thread should have been closed about 3 days ago. Now it is.

Shell's too cool to wave to anyone, she ignored me last week too.

unless you bought the stagea rear diff, you need to re-use your old front diff. front and rear diff need to match

Indeed....but they won't be allowed to. v8SC is strictly controlled so it will be the same chassis everyone else is using with a pushrod v8. If they do it....neither nissan nor v8sc have confirmed this. If you want to see an r35 GTR racing, watch Australian GT racing