Duncan

Agreed, about 300 is right for those turbs at 20psi. They are pretty crap unfortunately, you would have 350+ with the same setup running -5 of similar instead (and with less lag). Dropping the zorst was a good call, and the other stuff like intake, cooler, airbox etc would be fine for that power level. Are you certain the timing is correct, and what cams does it have? Sure there is no boost leak and that the fuel pressure is OK?

you know what....that is so sensible, and yet it took so amazingly long to happen. Here's hoping it will be happening at WSID soon too, looks like it is just Willowbank for now.

I finally got the 34 rims on. They actually clear the brakes AND have enough room for wheel balancing weights....big step forward in my world....

You really should join the NSW club, there are lots of good suggestions in the member section. In any case, which part of sydney are you in. From the report above you have something bent both front and rear, or very badly worn bushes. The factory camber and caster cannot be adjusted at the front, and the rear camber can only be adjusted by about .5 degrees.

BTW if o2 sensors are off (and I think you said they are), the setting will make no difference

It allows you to select between the 32 and 33 type o2 sensors. I don't know which squiggle yours is set to, but if you go to sensor check and both o2 sensors flick around 0.5v average at idle, you have it set right. If they don't average 0.5v at idle, one or both sensors are dead, or you have it set the wrong way

BTW all the dirt rally regs are also on the cams site for anyone who is looking at those classes: http://www.camsmanual.com.au/04_rally_road.asp These are the high level classes: Group 3 - Club Rally Cars Group 3C - Production Rally Cars (PRC) FIA Groups A, N, R, Super 2000 and Super 1600 Kit Variant CAMS Group N (P) Rally Cars Showroom Rally Cars Historic Rally Cars Classic Rally Cars like racing, there are non-CAMS categories like AMSAG They just look too restrictive in terms of ability to move across to circuit racing to me. And I guess very few tarmac rally-ers also do dirt.

Interesting, Skylines are not eligible for 2B or 2F as per this list: http://www.camsmanual.com.au/pdf/02_race/c.%202nd%20Category/RA18_Group_2B-2F_EligibleVehicles_Q411.pdf But 2A has no particular/relevent restrictions except only 2WD can race, and they have to have 2 seats. So no reason that couldn't be it. But you are in QLD so none of this really matters for racing, right? AASA race regs will chuck you into touring cars (super TT) and irace will put you into Jap/Muscle cars. Neither of which appears to have any particular restrictions, so get out there and give it a go. If you want to race CAMS you are up against the porsches in sports cars. I am not sure about QLD but in NSW the state champ sports car racing is 2F which Skylines are not eligibile for (I am working on application though)

Yeah that is one of the dirt rally categories too.

mine is 3E as well. If I was building a new car today I would go 3D for sure because the rally scruits will accept it but it would also cover me for racing.

good to hear they are doing the right thing to fix it....lots of places would be more difficult or just try and change 2 before you notice. Or as I had in one case just leave 1 wheelstud snapped and hope you don't look at it.

OMG I thought you were just fat! (and congrats Jenna )

umm....2 broken but not replacing the rest? my guess is they overtightened the nuts and 2 broke. However, how do you know others were not overtightened/stretched/weakened but not broken? I'd by very cautious....

Agreed, and I hope the SAU committee has some track events next year for everyone (SAU and RENEW) to enjoy. I guess it depends on how much effort they focus on the Ashnats vs running events for the members.

you'll be fine just replacing 2 tyres (I don't beleive in replacing just 1...). Attessa allows for something like 3-5% difference in diameter before it detects slip to allow for this. Even different brands in the same size can have variance in actual sizes.

thanks for putting these results together....and congrats on SAU members for taking out all 3 classes (now....all of you enter the SAU track day on 17/12....if we don't support the events I don't think the club will be able to keep running them )

FAST says it is genuine. I was surprised at the price too, but I don't really look that often so it may be OK?

OK the good news is what you need is very simple. not toe rods but tie rods Assuming nothing is bent.... The rear toe on a GTR is controlled by a steering rack, exactly like the front every other car. The steering rack is called HICAS. At the end of the steering rack there are a few pieces that require replacement over the years. From outside (hub) to inside (steering/hicas rack) they are: Ball joint - there is a nasty little ball joint pressed into the hub. I have only ever found these at nissan. They are expensive if they need replacement, but if they are rooted it makes a hge difference to fix them Rod End / Outer tie rod - this is the most common wear point in most cars, and suspension places that don't know gtrs often suggest they be replaced when there is movement. There are reasonably priced (ie not nissan) options to replace these. They are normally OK on GTRs because the inner tie rod end wears first.... Inner tie rod - this is the most common wear point on a gtr. There is a non-nissan option (sorry I don't have the brand or part number handy). There is a nylon bush on the end of the inner tie rod end that wears causing slop or movement in the racks/hubs. These often need replacement. But....you said you needed to adjust the rear toe. Like most car's front steering rack, there is normally heaps of adjustment available in the factory setup. If they can't fix it with the factory gear you almost certainly have something else bent.....so the easiest fix is to replce the bent bit, then everything else will come good, the way nissan designed it. There are some cases where the factory toe genuinely runs out of adjustment, but this is normally only the case with extreme lowering or race car style alignment

This couldn't get much further off the topic of the Aus sprint, could it. In the end Stuart's car was legal, entered, and won his class. Plenty of others could have entered but didn't, so that is just another motorsport "coulda". And, Stuart's car is miles from the most expensive entered in the supersprint series....in fact it is probably Duncan's car that takes that honour. I don't have any problem with anyone entering any even in a legal car - in fact if we don't all do that there will be no motor racing to argue about. Yes there are plenty of strange inconsistencies in rules, and I beleive they can and should be questioned so that motorsport can continue with enough support that we don't lose our venues.

definately not. if the crank is straight and the block/externals etc are not cracked you will be fine.

grrrr.....I couldn't find an intact second handy myself, and had to order from Nissan. Part numbers are in the stagea section if you get stuck, I think chucky posted them up

haha that is the good side. the bad side is how hard it is to replace a broken side window BTW......I love the stag in this sort of weather, it is outrageously fun

I am certain there are plenty of spots left...get those entries in! Thanks to Matt's good work with Wakefield the day will definately go ahead.....but basically if members want events they need to support them by entering! If the cost for the day had not changed as discussed at the general meeting I imagine this day would have been in danger of being cancelled

Can I just say....these prices are very cheap.....good work Not in the market at the moment, but anyone who does or might need discs would be amd to pass these up.

+1, just check the crank for straighness. I dropped a motor off an engine stand years ago (wheels got caught in an expension joint in the concrete and it toppled forward. balancer was broken but everything else including the crank came up fine. They are pretty tough really