Duncan

classic anyway, rb25 and 26 use hydraulic and solid lifters, not rockers, so no adjustment required (except theoretically for wear in an solid lifter shim over time)

You're a billionaire having 9x R32 front indicators!!!

That is unusual (noting you didn't say what size Walbro it is). What was the pre and post fuel pump fuel pressure. I have Bosch 044 in the race car and Walbro 525 in the Stagea, both with the stock fuel regulator, not issues. BTW Josh good point about the FPCM, I assume that people bypass it when changing the fuel pump by running the fuel pump negative straight to the chassis.....the standard FPCM is calibrated to a good condition standard fuel pump so it might give unreliable results with an aftermarket pump.

Yeah sorry i wasn't clear, so was I. Eg in this kit, the reservoir cap is attached to the pressure bleeder via a standard nitto air fitting, therefore the cap is interchangeable with any other brand pressure bleeder that also uses a nitto fitting (Or, without too much creativity, the fitting could be swapped for another style of air fitting)

The SP pressure bleeder just uses a regular nitto air fitting for the cap, if the motive pressure vessel is the same you can probably grab any brand cap

Interesting. The casting is different (but interchangeable) for R34 RB26 because it used a physically larger crown wheel than could fit in the early model housings, not sure if that is what you are seeing here..... No idea why the block bolt pattern is different though, I've never heard of any sump that wasn't interchangeable on the rb AWD block

Yes, I agree with that logic. I don't know enough about the spec to confirm the list is correct

Well, the speedo sender is trying to work out road speed from the gearbox's output shaft speed...therefore the diff ratio (and tyre height) must be assumed in the speed sender. So, if your car/diff (r34 auto) matches the speed sender you are looking at it will be fine.

It will run fine, as the fuel pressure regulator makes sure the injectors get the right pressure, not the pump. You should check the maximum current draw of the 255 is within the standard wiring's fuse (and therefore wire size), and if not you may want to take the opportunity to replace the factory wiring with a properly fused direct battery feed

Don't worry about the wires so much, you need to make sure the diff is the same ratio as your car or the speedo will be out by the difference.

I'd start by seeing if your auto speed sensor does physically fit. If you go for something from another car it will need to have the same diff ratio to give you the right speed. Also, both the neutral and reverse sensors seem to have their wires broken off too...whoever you go this from really looked after it. You probably don't need the neutral switch but without the reverse one you won't have working reverse lights

There definitely are 2 bush sizes, I've been caught out by that too....but that won't affect whether the shifter is retained, it would either not fit (large bush in small hole) or be super loose (opposite). However, I've never understood why, but there are 2 snap rings on the shifter....

Funnily enough, R31 cable has been the recommended one for FFP on an RB for ages I'm running an R31 cable in my FFP Rb30 stagea, but FWIW the throttle body is the other way up, ie the actuator is on the engine side not guard side.

Looks more like a Camry Wagon to me Welcome to SAU

They use rb26 rods, not an rb26 crank. The throw of the crank determines the capacity of the engine (rb25 vs rb26) as the bore diameter is the same

Great to hear it is sorted....it is amazing how much bleeding through is required some times

I reckon your request is perfect for one of the new visual AIs, give it a try and post up results....

Same to you, may 2024 be full of working cars!

You totally should have posted up during the adventure, I'm not in Sydney anymore but I'm sure some help would have arrived. I've also had problems recently with fuel hats/wiring/fusing for one of those 525 pumps, see my stagea thread for most recent chapter including some FPG instalments But, like Dose said, I think it is critical to stay away from solder in any automotive environment. Its not the solder itself, its the heat affecting the wiring directly next to the solder site, it goes brittle and fails over time. And as you noted, passing wire through the fuel hat leads to wicking of fuel and damage over time. What I don't get is, you are only running an LS. Surely some standard or slightly larger pump would be enough for the power it makes? If you want to stick with a high current pump, change to a modern FPG hat or similar (they have clearly been learning over time with their revised designs, I'd stay away from older ones).

I'm confused by "one notch off from top dead centre". If you rotate it one notch is HICAS happy? If so, I think the issue is more likely your tie rods have been set unevenly in a previous alignment, so put the boss on straight and get the alignment checked. It won't be an issue with a nissan style boss being wrong, there are billions of cars running them with no problem

So, the diff is pretty much the same between GTS4 and GTR. The ratio difference is due to the number of teeth on the crown wheel and pinion, and they are commonly swapped between GTR and GTS4. Assuming you are just looking for a decent LSD, the other variable is the number of splines on the driveshaft that goes into the diff centre; they might be the same GTS4 vs GTR but I'm not sure. From a quick check late 32 and 33 GTR had 31 spline half shafts and they have a 6x1 bolt pattern, not sure if GTS4 is the same. If it is the same you can use any 32 GTR centre; if not you need a GTS4 specific centre, or you need to change the half shafts and drive shafts as well which might be hard to find

The part you have circled is the attessa actuator to transfer case flange. It is worth fixing the leak but that is unlikely to be your problem. pCH-90 of the r32 manual says to seal it with "recommended sealing fluid 518" which I understand is loctite 518

*edit* re-read that....shame they aren't interested in US exports Iron Chef might be better placed, they have a US subsidiary, I imported our Titan from US to Aus through them

In that case it is worth checking for private sales too, something like carsales.com.au, 1998-2002, under 100k, there are about 30 for sale atm (all very pricey but I guess that is skylines in 2024). A specialist like the ones named above could then work out shipping/import for you

Thanks all...will see how a better quality fuse goes for now an upgrade to a midi it I still have trouble....goes to show that 16a continuous is unusually high for (non factory) auto electronics, the regular off the shelf crap is not made for it.