Duncan

Well, the speedo sender is trying to work out road speed from the gearbox's output shaft speed...therefore the diff ratio (and tyre height) must be assumed in the speed sender. So, if your car/diff (r34 auto) matches the speed sender you are looking at it will be fine.

It will run fine, as the fuel pressure regulator makes sure the injectors get the right pressure, not the pump. You should check the maximum current draw of the 255 is within the standard wiring's fuse (and therefore wire size), and if not you may want to take the opportunity to replace the factory wiring with a properly fused direct battery feed

Don't worry about the wires so much, you need to make sure the diff is the same ratio as your car or the speedo will be out by the difference.

I'd start by seeing if your auto speed sensor does physically fit. If you go for something from another car it will need to have the same diff ratio to give you the right speed. Also, both the neutral and reverse sensors seem to have their wires broken off too...whoever you go this from really looked after it. You probably don't need the neutral switch but without the reverse one you won't have working reverse lights

There definitely are 2 bush sizes, I've been caught out by that too....but that won't affect whether the shifter is retained, it would either not fit (large bush in small hole) or be super loose (opposite). However, I've never understood why, but there are 2 snap rings on the shifter....

Funnily enough, R31 cable has been the recommended one for FFP on an RB for ages I'm running an R31 cable in my FFP Rb30 stagea, but FWIW the throttle body is the other way up, ie the actuator is on the engine side not guard side.

Looks more like a Camry Wagon to me Welcome to SAU

They use rb26 rods, not an rb26 crank. The throw of the crank determines the capacity of the engine (rb25 vs rb26) as the bore diameter is the same

Great to hear it is sorted....it is amazing how much bleeding through is required some times

I reckon your request is perfect for one of the new visual AIs, give it a try and post up results....

Same to you, may 2024 be full of working cars!

You totally should have posted up during the adventure, I'm not in Sydney anymore but I'm sure some help would have arrived. I've also had problems recently with fuel hats/wiring/fusing for one of those 525 pumps, see my stagea thread for most recent chapter including some FPG instalments But, like Dose said, I think it is critical to stay away from solder in any automotive environment. Its not the solder itself, its the heat affecting the wiring directly next to the solder site, it goes brittle and fails over time. And as you noted, passing wire through the fuel hat leads to wicking of fuel and damage over time. What I don't get is, you are only running an LS. Surely some standard or slightly larger pump would be enough for the power it makes? If you want to stick with a high current pump, change to a modern FPG hat or similar (they have clearly been learning over time with their revised designs, I'd stay away from older ones).

I'm confused by "one notch off from top dead centre". If you rotate it one notch is HICAS happy? If so, I think the issue is more likely your tie rods have been set unevenly in a previous alignment, so put the boss on straight and get the alignment checked. It won't be an issue with a nissan style boss being wrong, there are billions of cars running them with no problem

So, the diff is pretty much the same between GTS4 and GTR. The ratio difference is due to the number of teeth on the crown wheel and pinion, and they are commonly swapped between GTR and GTS4. Assuming you are just looking for a decent LSD, the other variable is the number of splines on the driveshaft that goes into the diff centre; they might be the same GTS4 vs GTR but I'm not sure. From a quick check late 32 and 33 GTR had 31 spline half shafts and they have a 6x1 bolt pattern, not sure if GTS4 is the same. If it is the same you can use any 32 GTR centre; if not you need a GTS4 specific centre, or you need to change the half shafts and drive shafts as well which might be hard to find

The part you have circled is the attessa actuator to transfer case flange. It is worth fixing the leak but that is unlikely to be your problem. pCH-90 of the r32 manual says to seal it with "recommended sealing fluid 518" which I understand is loctite 518

*edit* re-read that....shame they aren't interested in US exports Iron Chef might be better placed, they have a US subsidiary, I imported our Titan from US to Aus through them

In that case it is worth checking for private sales too, something like carsales.com.au, 1998-2002, under 100k, there are about 30 for sale atm (all very pricey but I guess that is skylines in 2024). A specialist like the ones named above could then work out shipping/import for you

Thanks all...will see how a better quality fuse goes for now an upgrade to a midi it I still have trouble....goes to show that 16a continuous is unusually high for (non factory) auto electronics, the regular off the shelf crap is not made for it.

So, having just done rear pads on the Titan, I was reminded that last year when I checked them out the sliders were seized pretty well so I went looking for a rebuild kit. One piecing one together from US and Nissan sites it came to about $300. Or, you could buy off the shelf (although ironically OOS) pre-rebuilt calipers for about $50 cheaper like this: https://www.4wheelparts.com/p/power-stop-performance-brake-calipers-s2948/_/R-BHKQ-S2948 So I guess this could just be a cultural difference where in the US changing calipers is the quick and cheap default way to do this. @bryan borges to do this the old fashioned way you need to identify the parts is to put your VIN in an online nissan catalogue like this: https://www.amayama.com/en/catalogs/nissan?_s=h, then head to the front brakes illustration (should be 440) to select the parts. It looks like they do a rubber kit but the pins are separate. You can then use the part numbers to choose a supplier

Well, FWIW , it will be the same length and car end fitting as any R34 brake line. At the caliper end it will either be a banjo that seals on the caliper face with a copper washer, or a flared fitting that seals on a matching flare surface inside the caliper. If you can't tell which it is just put up a good pic and we can try and check.

Are you looking to buying something that is already in Australia, or an agent to buy from Japan for you. I've used and was very happy with both Iron Chef (for a US-Aus), Prestige Motorsport (Japan-Aus) and Just Jap (Japan-Aus). I don't know and have not come across Global Motor Traders

So given that the 30a rated holders that everyone sells (even the pricey narva stuff is 30a rated) weren't doing the job, I grabbed one of these, a Blue Sea 4 circuit standard fuse holder https://www.bluesea.com/products/5045/ST_Blade_Compact_Fuse_Blocks_-_4_Circuits There are a bunch of fakes on ebay too at about 1/3 of the price but I went genuine as I don't need further quality issues. Bluesea rate it to 100A max with 30A max per circuit. I am running 25a for the fuel pump, 15a for the stereo amp, 10a for the LED light bar and 10a for the aux reverse lights so well within it's rated level. Some minor mods were made to remove the supplied power stud and replace it with a M6 bolt that runs through the back of the holder as the power supply from the battery is routed inside the fuse box. I then mounted it to the side of the fuse box with m4 bolts in the space between the fuse box and plenum. I took the opportunity to label those 4 power supply wires too, using motorsport spec masking tape and sharpie marker. There are still 2 other mystery wires attached to the battery +, one of which is running though some sort of circuit breaker (maybe the trailer electric brake)? Too many people have had their hands on this car over the years.... The only thing I'm not too happy about is that they use screw in terminals, I've stayed away from them in the race car, will be interesting to see how they go in a hot/bumpy environment over time. I have secured the wires to minimise the amount of movement.

So, a few posts back I mentioned the fuel pump fuse holder had melted/failed. Was driving up a hill on a hot day not far from home the other week and once again the unicorn failed to proceed. Had a good look, and the new fuse holder I had added had also melted. These 525 fuel pumps clearly are continuous, high current beasts. That is a 30a fuse (not blown) in a 30a rated fuse holder. Holder is so badly melted that it was loosing electrical connection. The areoflow web page shows the pump pulling up to 16 amps, then unhelpfully states "This fuel pump requires a minimum 35-amp relay on each pump, along with suitable gauge wire and fuse/circuit breaker". https://aeroflowperformance.com/af49-1057-525lph-e85-hi-flow-fuel-pump "Suitable", eh? Can't say that is exactly a specification.

Sure can, just split out what you need (or don't). You might find there are some cross dependencies you need to handle like shared power or earth, but just keep what you need

Right, so this is almost certainly a switch problem, they are failure prone, you can see from the circuit diagram that each headlight takes it's own path. As GTSBoy said, the full current for each headlight goes through the switch, so either: 1. replace the switch with a brand new one (they are available from Nissan), or 2. rewire the headlights with a relay. Intercept the wire to the working LHS headlight to use as the relay trigger, run a properly fused wire from the battery to the fuse, and then run power from the relay to both lights. You need the main power feed to safely supply 20A which is pretty beefy, and then 10A to each headlight. There are dual output relays that can make wiring that a little easier like this (just don't accidentally use a switchover relay which turns of one when the other turns on