Duncan

Grab one of the Fenix radiators from via the member's forum...they usually have them in stock, and a good price

Agreed....but the part posted above is what almost always wears first in the skyline steering rack. It has some nylon parts that wear.

yeah I was thinking 235/45/17, and maybe they are a little more expensive 12 months later. But still, they are 30-50% cheaper than dunlops....big difference to anyone except superlapers

The ECU turns itself on and off using the ECCS relay. This gives it time to save settings etc before it turns off. So...start by replacing the relay, maybe it has failed and is constantly on. Or even easier, replace the ECU with a known good one and check again because it could be a simple short internally

don't worry about the rubber pad, just put the stands directly under a solid part of the car. You should not put a chassis stand under the sills, or even the chassis rails. What you should look for is one of the more solid locations, like the front or rear subframe, the rear diff, swaybar mounts or suspension mounting points

Very similar results to Harry's above. I've been running a single set of them (Hard) and they are wearing well. The only reservation I've had is their wet performance. I've used them twice in the (very) wet and it was a disaster both times. BUT, I was running a dry alignment with stiff springs, lots of camber and lots of caster. So I can't really blame the tyres until I either run some other tyres in similar conditions with the same alignment, or sort out a wet alignment and try them again. Overall....I think they are excellent for their price. If I could afford $600 a tyre I'd probably use dunlop dz03...but I can't so I'm going to very happily stick with these at half the price. I've also run them at 32 and 34psi, and haven't found a major difference, so they seem to react well to a range of pressure and temp. Haven't really had the chance to try them lower and higher than normal but I will do so next day I get a chance to test.

Agreed....many workshops will say anything to avoid their responsibility under the Fair Trading Acts to provide goods that are fit for the purpose they were sold. The business that you the customer pays, is the one responsible for warranting the whole set of goods and services you paid for. If they have an issue with the supplier they need to take it up with the supplier

Assuming you don't have a fuel pressure gauge, and can't easily fit or borrow one.... Can you check the voltage across the fuel pump's terminals (pull it out again, still plugged in, start the car and put a multimeter across the terminals when you turn from ACC to IGN with the key)? How full is the tank (maybe the pump is too high in the cradle, or the cradle was not refitted properly) Do you have a programmable ECU that may have been tuned when the old pump was failing? Is the sock on the bottom fitted properly, and is it clean? Maybe replace the fuel filter as well

Hi Maxx, welcome to the scene As well as dealers (people have mixed experiences), you may want to look at cars for sale from the NSW Skyline club's members. That way you are saving money by buying privately, and have better confidence about the car because many people will be familiar with it. What are you looking for, and what is your budget?

I saw a 260rs in the pits, and wierd black volvo with stripes down the side parked near the cube at super-expensive-lap today

same. I also run one, and also cable tied it into the cradle. has 2 crimps for the power supply, that's it. true life.

not at all....or not in the medium term. no matter how blind the lenders choose to be....sooner or later they will realise this money can't be paid back. the world's changing, it always does. I bet the romans were surprised when the goths finally got through the walls of rome too.

yeah I'm running one in my stagea, it works perfectly. adjustment was about 8% in my case for 245/45/17s. I didn't keep a record of the hookup...but it was pretty simple. If you can post up a good pic of the back of the cluster I can pick it, or just follow the wires to the speedo....it is marked in english, something like "SPD"

sounds just like me....see you there. ohai from heathrow again btw. No changi on the way back, bangkok instead. Must watch out for girliemans.

OK, cleaned and re-opened on OP's request. Keep responses on topic or I will happily hand out warnings/bannings

I'm leaving now, hoping to be there by gates open on saturday. leaving scotland that is.

Thread miles of Scooby's original topic, closed. If you all want to have a workshop dick swinging contest regarding intercoolers, do it in a seperate thread.

Sweet, thanks Brad Good to head it only draws 10A as well

Hey Russ, Just Jap will have spares for sure, give them a bell first thing in the morning. And keep us updated if they can't help for some reason. I have spares somewhere but am not back in sydney until sat 5am

is he in scotland? get him to call me 0788 077 1068, we can have a sickly warm beer together. needs to be tonite I have to gt back for superlap so I am leaving in 36 hours

edinburgh actually....yeah its all a bit upside atm, nfi what time it really is. But the sun is up.

yeah luckily enough I did. Still a prick of a trip for 2 days though. BTW Hi from Heathrow.

I thought it would be rude not to post here since I'm sitting in Changi airport atm so.....

Thanks for putting this together Dale Anyone who hasn't done sway bars on their car, get on this group buy! They make a brilliant difference and really reduce that barge feeling

jut to clarify, 4wd C34 floorpan is the same for seat mounting to: R32 R33 R34 4WD (GTS4, GTR) Any of these will botl straight in. The R34 2wd eg R34 GTT is different, this is likely to the the right layout for 2wd stagea. All of which reminds me, I should but the leather stagea seats in the race car for extra comfort on those touring stages