Duncan

The nuts themselves are easily replaced with another wheel nut with M12x1.25mm pitch. Any auto parts shop will carry it. If you need the whole wheel stud replaced in the hub, any decent mechanic can do it, nothing tricky there.

+1 And....the main previous issue was probably the amount of toe at the front, which they have corrected. At the rear there is about 1/4o adjustment to camber available from factory.

Excellent post....and it leads me to ask a question. Is "closing and honing" a rod's big end or cam tunnel the same operation as "tunnel boring" a block? What exactly is involved? And does closing and honing a rod's big end shorten your stroke? I've had interestng results when measuring capacity/stroke on some of my race motors

totally agree...I was thinking full circuit/multi car in this case. But getting easy and accurate timing for texis is no doubt also on the committee's to do list....I reckon a boring old IR beam like in a shop would be a good starting point

Speaking of timing, "The Lap Timers" thread is over here. Only 2 options so far but I'm sure there are lots more to come.

OK, so thinking further....I obviously use track based timers at race meets too....so here's my thoughts on Dorian timing Name: Dorian Timer Price: $can't bloody remember for the car (at least $400), + $000s for the track. Eastern Creek and Wakefield have Dorian installed. Or Rented by the organising club about $500 for the day for 50 timers. Features: Sends a signal to the track loop each time you pass the start line Good Points: Results end up on the internet for everyone to see (www.natsoft.com.au). Very accurante (1/1000th second) Bad Points: Results end up on the internet for everyone to see. Need to charge beforehand. No in car display so you have to check after the session. No more detailed data/gps/logging inputs etc

Other types of timers I can think of: Track based timing (eg Dorian) Phone based GPS High frequency GPS (phone frequency is slooow) Full race dash/loggers Look up the time on an incar video Stopwatch outside the car

The discussion from the track day thread reminded me I was going to put up some information on lap timers after the Marulan Track Day...... well the problem there was I tried 3 different apps on my phone and had a 100% failure rate trying to set up the track to do timing. User error no doubt....anyway..... I use this lap timer in the race car Name: Intercomp lap timer Price: ~$500 (ouch) Features: Stores single lap times based on a beacon on the side of the track. Displays last and best lap times. Stores data to check later. Good Points: Easy to setup. You can adjust the IR sensitivity Bad Points: Batteries always bloody flat. Very basic, no real logging, track maps, corner speeds etc etc. No external inputs for other data. So.....others who use lap timers, post up what you've used with the same format.

Posts regarding timing etc removed on the author and club's request, as they were getting off topic for this event thread.

Yeah I kinda skipped the troubleshooting, this is what I've tried. Run the intercom off a seperate battery (ie no link to the car's electrical). Perfect Run seperate earth for intercom (was shared). Interference Run seperate power for intercom (was shared). Interference Run sheilded + and - from battery to intercom, routed away from other wires. Interference Add small (and later large) filter on the positive of both the intercom and o2 sensor. Interference BTW the interference is not specific to the PMD gear, the Terraphone had the same issue.

Yep, everything same same, with the possible exception of sway bar and sway bar bushes.

+1, I had the wrong girdle fitted to a block, after all the final measuring was done. fortunately in this case we could hear straight away it wasn't right and pulled it down again before damaging anything except bearings. They must always either be a pair, or be tunnel bored.

Yes I have....although I think it was load, not boost. I spun a big end bearing shortly after. seriously.

hmm been a while since an update. Firstly, this setup is excellent. The quality and toughness of the components kills anything else I've seen right up to the big $$ stuff. Secondly, the after sales service from PMD has been excellent. Quick answer of phone and email questions, and they re-programmed both radios to the new 80 channel setups + firmware upgrades at no cost. Even got a stubby cooler which was the clincher. Finally....my car has interferance from the bloody wb 02 sensor controller. I've tried literally everything to seperate them, any time the intercom and 02 sensor are on there is interferance. I can't think of any solution but a relay to turn off the o2 sensor when I hit the push to talk button....any other ideas appreciated.

put good, new semi slicks on it then report back.

+1 32gtr and 32 gts4 are the same front and rear

yeah that was my suggestion, bunnings will have some sizes of sticky backed foam but clark rubber will have a better range. If you can't get the right size buy larger and cut down with the dremel

Give me a bell Craig, you can cruise in C34 RB30 style

In Can't wait to learn about how to change the torsion bars on the ute.

I'd still suspect air lock first. Try parking with the rear down hill, nose in the air, bleeder closed, heater on full, and a half coke bottle full of water in the radiator cap. Ultimately, 110 oil and 100 water is not too hot, so you could always just live with it unless it gets worse

hey if anyone needed to know about tyres, it was Dave. As they say....."know thy enemy"....

yeah, horrible boost drop off there...try and get that fixed before being too concerned. I'd start by running the car again with no exhaust, and see what the result is. Also, have a look at the intake under the bonnet when it is at full boost for anything sucking shut, stock rubber parts in particular

Jarrad, the excellent deals on federal tyres from these guys are still on over here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/231342-special-deals-on-federal-tyres

A hge thanks to Mick and the team at NTW for putting on an excellent night (not to mention beer and food). It was a great turn out as well, the place was pretty much full with over 35 people along to check out what was happening. I though it was a good mix of information on how tyrs work, how to maintain them, and how to bag out commodore drivers. The highlight for me was learning from Mick that "when the steel belts are sparking, it's probably time to change tyre". That and that Neil adn Charles both remember whitewall, bias-ply tyres. The next night is on 19 October at Wholesale suspension in Penrith, I'm sure a thread will be up soon

hahah too late...but I was going to say.... pop the fuel filler. if your fuel breather is blocked (mine has been for years), pressure in the tank will pump plenty of fuel out whatever hose you pull off first.