Duncan

Big thanks to all the organisers and volunteers who made today run brillintly despite the rubbish weather. In particular foe McGuyver for fixing the bbq with a ballpoint pen and cardboard box! Wrap up thread is over here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/367511-texi-wrap-up/ PS. COME TO THE DRAG DAY!!

told y'all it had been a while since my insurance came in...annual renewal was today R32 GTR N1, full comprehensive insurance (ie including road driving), agreed value $30k. $510pa

OK, I know a few people have done this so it is probably user error....but I am stuck at step 3. Can I confirm...if I * sit in the driver's seat * lock the car using central locking button * fully insert and fully remove the key, 6 times in 10 sec (don't turn to ACC, just insert and remove) that the doors will unlock and let me continue the programming?

Gary (and others!), you will need one of the following licenses to enter this event: AASA Club motorsport ($50). Covers out Texi events, Wakefield track days, and any AASA motorsport including racing. CAMS L2NS ($57). Covers our Texi events, any CAMS motorkhana. CAMS L2S ($103). Covers our Texi events, any CAMS motorkhana/supersprint/hillclimb, Wakefield Park days and other AASA events CAMS any higher license. Also, for those who need to join the club, there will be membership forms available on the day. Club Membership ($60) Anyone who needs a license or membership, please get there a little earlier to reduce the morning paperwork rush.

yep good idea. we have spare ebay steerign wheels for both cars when we are not at the track. the good suede ones get damaged too easily, especially by oil. I like you committment to this car....lots of good work going into it and nothing seems to be off limits....looking forward to catching up at Superlap

It's a purely mechanical locking system (apart from 1 actuator/motor for the central locking if you have it)....so first up I would try to force it with the inside lock release. Or if you are even braver and have a spare key.....force it with the inside switch AND the key at the same time. You can break the key in the lock so be careful! Once it is unlocked, pull the door card off and see what is bent/broken/siezed. Or give it to a mechanic if you aren't feeling brave.

ahaha yep it sounds pretty bad until you get used to it! And every camry driver in the carpark will think you are evil incarnate. What you are describing is perfectly normal with a tight diff

yes exactly...it is not based on actual inputs from the car, it is just what the computer *thinks* it will get with the fuel it is putting in. you can adjust it to be pretty much correct by comparing the target AFR to actual AFR on the dyno, just adjust the air flow meter curve. but not much point really...

100% agree. And I've left one loose before, they vibrate out over time and rub on the pulley (mad sparks on the dyno!)

I guess someone could confirm all the features of the GPS thingy that was provided at Targa....but I thought one of the features was GPS location of offs. Extremely good idea i think

BTW are you downgrading back to R33 N1 turbos?

The Nav's are the best to answer that....but I'm willing to bet a good GPS should replace the olde fashioned tripe computers....

I've always held the flywheel with a single bellhousing bolt and a long prybar to hold it.

Hey Joel....don't forget your membership

The DBA catalogue is a little unclear. Base model GTRs (R32, all dates) had 296x 32mm discs. They run a grey/green rotor with either nissan or sumitomo brand (can't remember) Vspec GTRs (R32) had the same brembos as R33 and R34, 324 x 32mm. The caliper is black and has Brembo on it So, unless you have the brembo brakes, you need the smaller discs. They are still a pretty capable setup compared to most facotry cars. For interest, R33 GTSt had 296x30mm discs, so in practice the base model r32 gtr and the 33 gtst brakes are interchangeable

That sucks Mark....hoping you can make it to at least 1 event you enter this year Aggrodave will have confirm who will take over the entry...the reserves list in post 2 is blank so maybe it's a chance for someone very late?

Actually...no! But Barry did pass on his details so thanks for helping out! I need to chase him again actually. Sounds like the Tassie field will be down a few after the number of crashes last round. How's the weather looking for the weekend?

/facepalm sorry...for some reason I had thought it was a turbo 6 not an 8! Yeah we have some IPRA commonwhores up here running nascar motors too. Considering the rules allow any v8 block form the same maker, free cam, free heads, free exhaust....it goes to show how crappy those cars and motors are that they are not walking away with it all the time.

yeah...and it is damn quick for a heavy, restricted IPRA car too. It killed by GTR at that Phillip Island v8 round we did.

Tas rally is on this weekend....where are the dirties from Tassie?

The EC private practice days can be overcrowded, maybe not the best way to do your first track day. Since SAU doesn't have a beginner's day again until December, I'd suggest contacting John Boston and going along to one of his professional days. You will get taken through the basics with some more structure and will learn heaps.

yeah in fact CAMS confirmed that for me the other day. Your log book category does not stop you entering any event as anything (although the scruitineers on the day may not know that...) You can basically enter any event as anything, regardless of what the log book says, as long as you meet the rules for the class you enter. CAMS can also change the category in the log book with another scruitineering inspection.

the attessa reservoir is inside the driver's side rear from factory. Or is it aftermarket. Either way...need pics!

Yeah wearing it down is the only way to "fix" it....it will get better with time if you just keep driving on it. But depending how bad it is, it might be best to just chuck it. At only 300klm old I'd be happy just to change the flatspotted one and leave the other side.

Sorry but that is not right. In fact water is one of the best coolants you can run for ability to absorb energy/heat without boiling. Totally agree with all those....simple things and any of them could cause a problem. I had a problem with overheating for months and tried literally everything except the obvious....a pressure test would have showed that it had a leak and was loosing water, then overheating. Took 8-10 minutes at full noise to go from dead cold to boiling hot.