Duncan

semi slicks are certainly legal...but they are not a simple choice they wear out 5-10x quicker than a normal tyre they are very noisey they tramline (follow the road surface) like crazy they are harsh they are bad to terrible in the wet (depends on brand and amount of tread) they have noticeably less grip when cold. they are expensive on the + side, they are excellent fun once warm

It's the total area that the master cylinder has to move that might make a longer pedal. Single piston calipers tend to have very large pistons. Best way to tell if the master cylinder is not OK is to measure the standard and new pistons and see how much larger the new ones are. Often the difference is minimal because it is the calipers that are larger not the pistons inside them. And basically, bleeding after replacing everything can be a real PITA. Sometimes it is OK straight away, sometimes it will need a few shots. A properly bled braking system should have a short pedal travel to get the pads to the disc, and then be consistent pressure all the way to the bottom. You should get the same feel on every push. If it gets better after a pump or 2 you probably still have air in the system. If you get to the bottom and it sinks slowly you have a leak somewhere. If it is consistently long you have bled it OK and may need a larger master cylinder

I'm into the hundreds of launches in my race car. the most important thing is not to shock it by dropping the clutch cold. just before launching put the handbrake on and let the clutch out a little to put the drivetrain under load. when the light goes out, drop the handbrake, drop the clutch, floor the throttle and watch it go.

but....brake fluid should not go anywhere. so hopefully your pads are very low. if not you might have a brake fluid leak. check carefully for leaks at the master cylinder and at each caliper if the pads are not low

i bolted a 32 gtr box on my stagea btw the only issue for push vs pull is the clutch. either setup will bolt onto the motor as long as the clutch matches the box type

haha good rant. who forgot to do mine up at targa? someone's wife?

well no oil in the sump....it was presumably in the head and spilling out the breathers. gary's restrictor specs sounds like a good place to start. what oil pump btw?

DRS eh? I thought I was watching formula ford at phillip island. whoever is 2nd on the last lap wins.

take it back to Justjap and swap it for the right one?

yeah that is normal. there is generally about 5mm preload that you have to push back againt

at the risk of trying to answer the original question.....I do not know for sure, but I cannot imagine any circumstance where a professional manufacturer would drill open holes through a sealed part of the intake. sounds much more like dodgy prior installation than original build

under the plenum on the chassis rail where hicas lived

have you tried to adjust the idle screw on the AAC to match the target idle on the PFC?

it's far more likely to be a bleeding issue, start there. If you push the pedal 3 or 4 times in a row does the travel to engage the brakes get shorter each time, or does it stay long?

so...how much was hack beaten by this week?

they are exactly what I would buy if budget was not an issue. They are a thoroughly developed and tested caliper with an excellent range of pads available. Well that is pretty much how I felt about the g4 ones, there is a little more travel but, to me, nowhere near enough of a difference to go through the pain of a master cylinder change. The pedal is still perfectly progressive and reliable, you very quickly forget what it used to feel like and it becomes normal BTW re potential bias changes....on the street its not an issue unless it is really screwed (eg 1 tonne ute in the wet). On the track it depends on what sort of suspension etc you are running. On very firm suspension you would benefit from more rear bias, even from stock. But under any sort of normal suspension the static weight is around 66/33 front in a GTR, and that moves to more like 80/20 or more (close to 0 sometimes) under hard braking. With that sort of weight you do not want rearward bias.

ever since we all agreed webber is a hack, this thread has delivered

yeah that was boz's old car. nothing wrong with that starlet either in a straight line, or around corners. damn thing only uses 3 wheels most of the time

lol no chance.....it is under the plenum on a gtr. just imagine a piece of braided line 300mm long with a 1/8npt (or whatever it is) on on end, and a t piece on the other. cable tied to the brake lines above the chasis rail and under the brake booster next to the firewall. works well...very reliable in a car that spends plenty of time bashing around

yes, that's how I've done it on my race car. braided line about 300mm from the standard pressure sender to a t piece mounted under the brake master cylinder. Been running for years without leaks and senders are working fine. the only trick was...I wasn't happy with remote mounting the temp sender as I wasn't sure I would get an accurate reading without flow past it. My temp sender is mounted on the remote filter adapter plate instead

yes, 2 tips. 1...wear mechanics gloves. you are an excellent chance of slicing your hands on the edge of the boot floor. 2...use something (eg socket extension, large flat bladed screwdriver) and a hammer to start moving it. It can stay tight for 1-2 turns so just take it easy. And when you put it back together, go carefully with the seal.

nope, no need to. It's the overall area of the pistons that matter, I haven't done the numbers but 8x small pistons is about the same as 4x stock pistons. how are the wilwood pistons for area compared to stock? Are you happy with master cylinder/pedal feel and front/rear balance

lol, nothing like a competition to start a storm about rules. Reminds me why we don't have prizes at dyno days anymore

pretty much anyone....we're a friendly club. you can't come in my car though