Duncan

Well done, first start is always nervous but great feeling when you've done it yourself. Now remember not to panic when the oily hand marks all over the turbo and exhaust manifold start smoking after a couple of minutes of running

Yeah interesting approach. Even the 32R workshop manual says not to re-use a lot of hardware I'm not a believer, I only replace head and rod bolts, other stuff just gets torqued to spec.

Yeah they are frameless, this is kind of similar to a recent R33 question. The faster you go the more wind noise Having said that, damaged seals will make it worse so it is kind of relative. Unfortunately I haven't been able to find new (or new old stock) seals for these.

Starter motor has big (unfused) pos from the battery and small start 12v from the key to the solenoid Alternator should have a plug, plus a large stud that goes to battery 12v and a small earth that goes onto the alternator body. Models vary a little so hard to be more specific, generally the pos stud is M6 (10mm nut) and the earth is M5 (8mm head bolt). Put the Pos stud on the earth spot and you'll get good sparks

Oh that is my favourite, done it more than once

100% put on the intake and exhaust manifold including turbos if possible, way easier to do all that on a stand I've got one of those levellers but I agree ratchet straps are a much better solution (or a second pair of hands). The levellers take up a lot of space and don't give as much flexibility as it looks for angle (you need to start within the right range of adjustment, and that bloody handle will impact engine when you try and adjust it anyway

I reckon not, performance or not they get slung together by a person that does the same tasks every 90 seconds for 8 hours. I'll bet replacing an occasional engine in warranty is just an understood cost of doing business, most of the time they are lucky, sometimes they are not.

Yeah, in theory the exhaust side is better for a drain due to crankshaft rotation. On the intake side any oil returning gets thrown up at the windage tray not down at the sump. No idea if it makes any real world difference

thanks Josh, that is exactly what I was trying to get at, I just wasn't aware of the term or method. Please fix this one instead of reducing the parts remaining in a small pool! Edit: sorry, to be clear, the fuel release end in the 32 is a plastic catch in a plastic thread which cracks....I could not see a practical way of fixing that beyond 3d design and printing which is outside my skill set

Welcome to SAU!

The R34 cable is longer but it doesn't matter, because as long as the ends are in the right place there is just a bigger loop in the rest of the cable. I see a worldwide shortage of 34 fuel door release cables starting very soon. Australia's stock already sold out 3 months back

I have an R34 one in my 32, but that is because the other end at the fuel door broke (plastic in 32, steel in 34). Is the 2nd pic a temporary fix? I think it is repairable, I'm not sure of the method but it would be worth either checking around or getting an instrument repairer to look at it

....expensive

Wow, they are pretty....

Lol, that might be a record, even for you

Sorry to be unclear, I meant that the fog lights from your questions 2 and 3 are also part of the winter pack. Generally, a bunch of rust is also part of that pack so please check the car out carefully including removing the door mirrors to check underneath. Mine has the winter pack too and despite being rescued from snowy parts more than 20 years ago the door mirrors still needed repair. There is no factory way to dim the dash lights. It is possible to fit a dimmer if it does trouble you, for a while adding one was part of compliance when cars came into Australia. You basically just add a variable resistor into the wire that supplies power to the dash backlight globes

Well, a place to start is the output of both o2 sensors. You will need to know which ECU you have, if stock you need a consult cable or otherwise whatever suits your ECU. Depending if the ECU runs narrowband or wideband o2 sensors, check the output of the o2 sensors is as expected, if they are factory narrowband sensors it is reasonable to need replacement after 25+ years However.....my bet is you won't find much wrong and won't make much difference; they are just thirsty

Issue inside the hydraulic unit was my thought after looking at the guide too, but I haven't really heard of that before. Potentially it is just the pressure switch has failed, original is not available but there are aftermarket equivalents like this from Frenchys https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-nissan-gt-r-attessa-pressure-switch-replacement I can't see how the g sensor would cause the issue but it is easy to check, just unplug it. The hydraulic unit should pressure up regardless of what the ECU thinks is happening in the car

I. can't be certain of 1 because mine (was) auto not manual cluster, but I don't have a main headlight (not high beam) dash light. The hint is that the dash backlights come on 2 and 3, these are fog lights. Position 1 on the switch gives you the front fog lights + parking lights including dash illumination. Position 2 turns on one rear red light as well as the dash light. As a result you only get 1 reversing light and will forever have kindly people stopping you to tell you one of your reversing lights is out. 4. Is for the front not rear screen, you have the "Winter options pack". That switch turns on the front windscreen wiper de-icer (element in the windscreen, if the windscreen has never been replaced). You should also have heated mirrors, a centre diff lock switch and the fog lights from q 2/3. There is a separate rear demister switch

Yeah I think it is the "Ultimate" version that got them called EMU. Still, there are better ways these days. Not just the fact it is a piggyback rather than full control, but also access to software and experienced tuners is pretty slim. Just grab a PowerFC, cheap, easy to tune, readily available if you want basic tuning capability

Hi Brian Bot!

hahah thanks mate, I appreciate our users are sharper than bots (so far!)

Practical max capacity of the tank is about 65l, not 80l. Workshop manual says it is 72l but I've never got more than about 65 in. Manual also says lamp comes on at 13l remaining Stageas are pretty thirsty between their weight and old school turbo engine. I get about 13l/100 (noting mine is pretty modified including cams) on mostly highway driving, which is about line ball with our 5.6l Titan. BTW, thanks for converting to metric to give our brains a chance

Bit of a surprising way for it to fail, glad that are sorting the problem anyway

Yeah that does suck considering how hard these computers might be to find, wherever you are. 80s Electronics were mind blowing to the 80s, but not so much these days. Might be worth opening the computer and looking for any burned tracks or components or other obvious issues rather than replacing it straight up