Duncan

hippo birdday chris!

read those rules again chris, they have changed a lot this year other than forcing all 4wd turbos into sports sedans (class 4) they are mostly good changes

have a look at the fittings, there should be in or out markings or arrows on the body. post up what you find. dont guess or accept a guess.....dead motor quick smart

lol mass produced ferrari hatch. no way they have a sales success on their hands with that train wreck

welll.....lets face it they are experts in their field and sell these trailers every day. They would know (and probably say, given they are high end) if their single axle design was not up to it. personally.....2000kg is somewhere between 2 and 3 axle territory in my experience! And that is a huge load to carry once you add trailer weight. I know you are running turbo patrol but it is still a huge load for a car....you will be close to 5 tonnes by the time you hit the road loaded up

yeah. lol is sooooo 2010

makes sense pete...the rest of the kit was nismo.

easy...supersprinting where are you based?

entry forms for MRA are here Chris: http://wakefieldpark.com.au/images/stories/forms/2011/mra%20round%202%20regulations.pdf?utm_source=Entry+Master&utm_campaign=2e77de4037-State_MRA_Rd_22_27_2011&utm_medium=email Looks like I'm not there again, the state champs are on at wakie the weekend after

That will be an issue with wiring to the ECCS relay. The ECU uses that relay to turn itself off after settings have been saved. The relay needs permanent 12v in not ignition 12v. I have the same issue in my race car, it looses PFC changes if I turn it off using the kill switch because it cuts the permanent 12v power before the PFC saves

lol you beat a lotus chris, i remember it well building a car to a class is a good idea (I did it ) but it is not simple, easy or rewarding. It is limiting and frustrating. My GTR must be about the slowest one in the country! But from when I first decided to build my own car, I knew I could not outspend the competition, so I went looking for tight rules where budget did not automatically determine who wins. One make racing was excellent, but because it is close it is full of cheats. The Daewoo series was controlled one make so we couldn't even have the cars to fiddle with them - even so there was 10% power difference between the slowest and fastest of the 20 cars. 10% is a mile. The one time I got the quickest car (wakefield 500), Tom, Mark and I were leading by literally 1 lap when the power failed So basically....there is no such thing as a level field, and no category where you don't need a reasonable budget to win.

but comment #5 is hilarious Tim - February 28, 2011, 1:58PM

this is funny: http://smh.drive.com.au/motor-news/webber-swaps-f1-for-porsche-20110228-1baqm.html

lol, they pulled out about 2/3 of the way through the season because no-one was watching

Production sports cars used to run power/weight classes, ie you could choose whatever power and weight you wanted but you would be competing for points against other cars with the same power/weight. The issue of course is weight is easy to measure and power is not. they used to take a dyno to some rounds and check some cars but it was just too hard to stay on top of. And too easy to fake lower power for a dyno run (eg boost controller or 2 maps on computer). Tyres are really the best limiting factor IMHO. Keep everyone on the same, cheap, average tyres and lots of other things even out....

I am only allowed to run bushes. They are terrible on a 32 gtr, I have to replace them every 3-4 races, they flog out because the upper arm geometery is poor.

upper arms for a 32gtr are a nightmare. especially if you run a bit of extra caster as well. I have to run standard arms and can have adjustable bushes...so that's what I run. But I have to replace the bushes every 3-4 race meets

sorry to hear that. if it has picked up some bearing already, pull the motor. it only gets more expensive (more needs replacing) the longer you run it. I would know, I've done it often enough lol. My record for a motor with incorrect oiling was 50klm from new to bearing spun

yep that is a good starting ride height for most track use, pretty close to what I ended up with (i guess different cars with different suspension and different driver feel leads to slightly different heights). re the rake 10mm lower at the rear, I think that is just a relative measurement to make it easy for normal people. the height of the guard at the rear of the car is lower than the front, even stock. to work out the real rake you would have to model all the suspension i guess.

ahh well "waiting is the hardest part" it may well be longer than you hope....but it should be worth it I've imported 4 cars over the years and never been disappointed with what I ended up with

haha yeah strong enough....we had a to crane a car 30m from the bottom of a gully hanging from it

hi mate, the solid tow hooks really are not the way to go unless you have to. we just run a piece of webbing (in my case cut from the end of a tie down strap), loop it in half, put 2 grommets in it and bolt it to where the reo mounts to the chassis. then cut a small slit in the bumper about 10x4mm and pull the loop through it. just make sure the loop goes atleast 15mm past the bar

about f**king time! SAU day next sat and first race in 3 weeks1!!!11ty

no sounds fine really as long as you are not loosing coolant. if you are concerned try a new radiator cap. yours may be stuck open but unlikely if you are not loosing coolant

1 2 or 3? 1 was the best.