Duncan

Well, Nissan says So factory expects 0.11Mpa or or 110kpa or 1.1bar or 16psi (which feels low to me, but there you go)

That bit at least you can fit by drilling a couple of clearance holes in the sump webbing to get a socket in there

That is a pretty poor reflection on a well regarded ECU...surely a clean 5v supply for the sensors regardless of ECU voltage is #1 requirement

As you can tell from updates....I haven't had a lot of shed time lately. When I'm on this though, I feel like I'm reliving Neil's last days. Everywhere I go on the car I seem to come across something he was working out. When I went up to his place just after he passed, I noticed he had a RB starter motor in the vice. And sure enough, this was my shed today So, last episode I mentioned the battery had 12.4ish volts but when I turn on the kill switch it drops to 9ish volts. Even with the stater main power removed, same. Matt said above: And yep, when I removed the solenoid power from the starter, the voltage jumped from 9 back to 11.7ish. Thus my testing the spare starter this arvo. Spare is good to go, just need to throw it in tomorrow. I'm not convinced that is the only issue as the voltage still drops from 12.4 to 11.7 when I turn the kill switch on, but first things first

Yeah so N1 and any other larger than factory pump are pretty famous for pumping the sump dry...obviously we don't often get to spend 20 or 30 seconds at high rpm/full noise on the road so I'd still be suspicious that is what is happening here.

speaking of the relief spring and noting this is one of those stupid times where I understand imperial (psi) but the graph is in metric (kpa), it looks like the oil pressure is a little low at full noise too, isn't the relief spring 120psi/830kpa?

Yeah well I was thinking...there is nothing that happens when you get off the throttle that should cause low oil pressure, its not like clearances suddenly change or and the relief spring would close and in any case the sensor is on the feed side....so more likely there was no oil available to pick up which means all the basic oil control stuff to: 1. keep oil out of the head (restrictors) 2. get it back out of the head when it gets there (external breathers/oil return, drilling out the block and head oil returns) 3. have more oil in the sump to pick up - larger capacity sump 4. have more oil near the pick up - baffles

In those logs are you on a track (ie braking when the oil pressure dips) or on street/dyno etc. You might need baffles in the sump. Alternatively.....turn the oil pressure protection down to 1.4bar?

not really....in that it is possible but it would be easier to pull the motor than to take the sump off in the car. It's not just that the diff is attached because you remove the axles and driveshaft, but you have to remove the whole subframe to get it out which is a heap of work including brake calipers and steering rack disconnected, have to support the engine from above because the engine mounts to the subframe etc etc

also, we need to know which solution worked....

a metal one, to be clear

coathanger

It may not feel like it to your wallet....but sounds like this was one of those "lucky you did it" rebuilds. Hopefully you have better luck this time

FWIW the depth of the groove in the rubber pad is not super essential, the blocks are rubber and squish a bit. If you are worried an angle grinder will make a deeper groove quick smart

yeah looks like they've been lifted there previously but with solid not slitted rubber blocks. I'd just bend them back (combination of vice grips or hammer with some sort of drift, then hit the area with underbody protection paint. As for the siderails, I'd call those chassis rails and that is exactly what I meant about being careful with the balance point. You can probably lift off them at the point where the 2 pieces overlap, but you need to be careful with the forward balance of the car if you do when the engine is in....sills are a better choice. I guess you could weld some reinforcement in the sill area near the jacking points but it shouldn't be necessary if you use blocks with a slit. If you do want to reinforce it I'd use square section equal or taller than the seam and then just use flat rubber blocks for lifting

Your off site links didn't work for me, and in any case it is easier for forum members if you post the pic directly either as an attachment or a link so the information is all in one place. That aside, the sills are the correct place to lift the car, whether with the factory jack or a hoist. Yes you should use rubber blocks with a slit for the seam on a hoist to avoid bending the pinch weld (where yours is currently bent, just bend it back if possible eg vicegrips), and be aware of the height you need in the blocks to clear any sill extensions to the hoist arms as it lifts If what you are doing needs access to the sills, the rear subframe bush would also be strong and secure. I'm not sure what you mean by sidemember (maybe same part I mean by sills) but be careful that your front support point is not too far back as the car is very front heavy and could overbalance.

Aside from the fact it is likely fuel related if it is black, the symptoms otherwise sound like worn valve stem seals. Oil gets past the worn seals when the engine is off and burns when the engine starts. If it happens on deceleration while driving (puffs of white smoke) that is another valve stem seal symptom because oil gets sucked form the head into the combustion chamber under vacuum with the throttle closed. They can be replaced in the car if you have some way to keep the valves closed while working (eg compressed air into cylinders) but is much easier with head off.

I sourced my silicone hose kits from Just Japanese. Their current link is what I posted above but supplier might have changed over the decades.

Yeah good point, it won't flash on indicator that way, so plan B, just another wire to run from under the dash which makes it a bigger job 30 to indicator + globe side 86 tapped into 12v input to flasher relay under the dash (has 12v when indicators on, nothing when no indicators) 87a to headlight parker + 87 to original indicator + chassis side 85 to chassis/earth Now it will flash with indicators and be solid on with parkers

FWIW, that's the only colour I'd buy it in

I don't know why we've had a different experience, but I've had them on the race car for 18 years and not a drop, and have them on the stagea too, same, no problems.

Ha! well, there's your problem! Guess the last person in there didn't have great attention to detail....

Man that dinner was such a long time ago....2010! I would only replace the rubber coolant lines with silicone these days; cheap, readily available and will last for ever. You will need new hose clamps though eg https://justjap.com/products/cooling-pro-silicone-engine-heater-hose-set-black-nissan-r32-gtr-rb26dett

Certainly. It is probably broken under the wire style clamp. At least that one is easier to get at than the front one. Sounds like it isn't a major leak, I'd start with backing off the the water feed and return banjos into the turbos half a turn then tightening properly. Hardlines can still crack over time, either in the tube (particularly when turbos are changed if the banjo is siezed in the the tube) or at the brazed joins between the lines and the banjo fittings. A coolant system pressure test will reveal all. BTW you'd be able to get a sump without exchange, it will just cost more as they will have to source another stock one for the next customer. If you want to address the sump a much better option is something like this https://www.hioctanedirect.com/hi-octane-racing-sump-extension-nissan-rb26 that you weld in locally (and add the oil return fittings at the same time)

Pretty sure you are thinking of the throwout bearing there (which you should change when you change your clutch), when they are worn they will get quieter if you put your foot on the clutch. An input shaft bearing is turning/noisy at all times.