Duncan

Yeah now we are talking I much prefer coolers in the front middle because it lessens the chance of a small bump to a corner stopping the whole event. I was thinking the AT cooler can move out of the radiator, delete the AT/engine coolant interwarmer and mount a separate cooler with a thermoswitch somewhere further back as is common in racing, that would be one thing. Beyond that, the engine oil cooler is an obvious one to move to the wheel arch, potentially one on each side, but unused space is an issue. I did have a earlier pic with the bumper off but it doesn't show how busy the corners are: DS is full of the auto driving sensors and PS is totally fully of windscreen washer fluid reservoir But ultimately I was hoping to keep the AC, and the water/air heat exchanger is fundamental so it is not just the radiator that needs to be in front BTW here's airflow to the rad as it ran at the track (one horn is gone now and I'll remove the lights next time):

Small update for the day... Turns out the intercooler and engine coolant hose kits are anything but complete....I probably should have counted better but it only really covers about half the coolant hoses in the car, it really just covers the visible stuff and pretends everything else doesn't exist (turbo water feed and returns and also heat exchanger lines through the 2 pumps and cooler) .In any case, I'm happier to have half reliable hoses than none, but a bit of a disappointment. Anyway...finger click (and 5 hours).....hoses in place, lots of spring clamps replaced with screw clamps, and engine coolant is on the pressure tester for the night. Incidentally, upsized header tank is an Inifiniti factory option....not sure I'll ever do prod car racing in this but at least it is legal.

hahaha glad I can rely on you two to go on a spiral at the drop of a problem! Some quick answers....the ducting is excellent top bottom and sides....everything that gets in goes through the coolers (noting the oil cooler redirects it out again, fair call if it is cooling 120o+) and the heat exchanger for the intercooler also has some scoops to pick up more than it's fair share too. I can't see going down the water spray track....no bueno for formal racing and a big risk for long rally days if you run out (plus I'm not clear if it is allowed there either yet). Frankly, it must be possible to reliably put 400kw through a standard front end, the BMWs do it so I just need to work it out....I'm starting with reducing blockages in the way and adding some coolant capacity with a bigger header tank, flushing rad and making sure it was filled/bled properly (I didn't do the last coolant change); also taken measurements incase next step is a bigger/higher capacity custom radiator

wow, a completely stock GTR! I've got to admit, I have no idea from what you are describing....do you have any idea where the "thump" comes from, and are you certain it is the HICAS light not something else like the cat overheat light?

nice work, welcome to the world of CAD! fabricating accurately in 3 dimensional space is beyond me....I almost always end up making something more than once...sorry I mean I extensively use prototyping

Final thought for now. Obviously the reason I was in there was to check everything is OK cooling wise, pull out the radiator to flush it etc, but I have to say the factory has done a hell of a lot of thinking about air management in a way they never did back in the R chassis days. The Redsport/400rs have (from engine forward) 2 large shrouded fans - radiator (incl AT cooler) - AC condenser - Intercooler Heat Exchanger and Oil cooler. There are shrouds and foam around everything to keep it pretty well sealed, which is good in that they have it sorted from factory, and bad in that I can't make any meaningful improvements there. The second red sport pump water pump is mounted in front of the rad in the airflow, so I will see if there is somewhere else I can stash that (unlikely, it is tight in there). The horns which are also in the rad airflow will be moved somewhere else, and hey who needs 2 when 1 would work For track days, I can also remove the lights which would block some airflow. Factory has already taken the smart option of ducting all air that went through the oil cooler down and out of the engine bay. This pic is taken from below looking up, so air comes through the cooler at the top of the pic then hits the shroud and is directed down and out of the engine bay through the engine bay lower cover Which of course is good for oil temps, but doesn't help the rad as it diverts 10-20% of airflow away So, no big improvements to be made here, I'll flush the rad out and put it all back together.....

Next..... That escalated quicker than an Elon and Donald break up! I'll post up a specific DIY for radiator removal on these, but all I'm saying is that if you get a workshop to change your radiator for any reason and they give you a $1000 bill for it, go and hug them and thank them for not charging all the hours it took.....what a bastard of a job. I'll make some adjustments as I put it all back for faster access in the future, but it was a nightmare.

So this car is not top of the (very long) list at the moment, but as the weather was terrible for the outside jobs and the next steps on Neil's car are business day jobs (get hold of engine specs and tune it), I spent some time on this car yesterday. First priority, work out why the LED hi beams I added were not working. This is a major one this time of year because I'm travelling at dusk and after dark to and from work and there is a lot of wildlife to avoid. So, I was this far in: When I finally remembered there is a switch on the dash. Which was turned off. And, when turned on, the lights work as expected. Gregging it! BTW, yes, in these cars you need to remove the windscreen cowl to remove the battery. At least the wiper can stay on.

Yikes. What does it have now, pedal box and no ABS?

Yeah so I guess your mechanic would know turnaround better than me....but I would have thought you had access to same day or overnight rack rebuilds there....any big city here in Australia has that service. There are a couple of o-rings and seals involved, I guess the risk is the part is specific not general. Other option is if you can have it on stands in your garage for a while, steering rack removal is pretty simple (2 mounting brackets, 2 ball joints (separate by undoing the nut to the top of the threads, put a pry bar between the steering arm and control arm to put pressure on it then medium force on the side of the ball joint or top of the nut with a hammer to break it free) and then the trickiest bit is the splines to the steering rack (not too bad to undo, one nut then it slides out, but mark it first so you can reassemble it straight)

Looks like whiteline don't do springs any more, part# used to be 70191 from a search. Any spring for a 32/33 GTR should fit, just look for something factory not lowered/firmer unless that is your goal

The price of every automatic S2 stagea in japan has suddenly doubled

Save the youtube time, I can explain in a couple of sentences: Internal Combustion Engines run on smoke which is factory installed. If at any time the smoke escapes (generally via the exhaust), the engine will stop running.

That specific R33 GTST issue I ran across was putting a PowerFC into a series 2; it required a fuse added into an existing but unused circuit to fire up the PFC. That won't be the issue here as I assume the ECU powered up (OP surely would have mentioned if they couldn't connect). As Matt said, Haltech do have specific information about wiring in the Platinum Pro where there are minor differences across the 2 row plug models (R32/R33 from memory). Quick Start guide at this link: https://www.haltech.com/product/ht-055101-platinum-pro-plug-in-ecu/# At a quick glance, it is more likely to be a local wiring issue than ECU wiring (eg that connector near the left headlight might have differences) Start with the age old question....are you getting fuel and spark, at the right time

Stay away from Enkeis for track use, they crack, just ask the Evo kids. I'd take Murray's advice and put the widest forged wheels in the right offset under them I could find

Assuming you are starting with a red sport/400r with the factory akebono calipers, you will never need to upgrade the calipers/disc/pad size which is good news (mine really could do with a rebuild though, the auto braking seems to be hard on them). They are the same as the track spec 370z when people can't find a parts lookup. Because I am/intend to tracking the car, I put race spec discs on it (DBA5000 series which are 2 piece) but for street use I would stick with factory until they need replacement, then put on slotted DBA4000 discs Pads I can't help much, I went with winmax street/track pads but they are not what I would choose for street use; they have great bite and never faded on the track, but are dusty as hell Fluid should be changed if you don't know when it was last done, I use Motul RBF600 and change it annually. That setup is sure to be fine for any power level you throw at these for spirited street use. If you are doing full on racing of course sky is the limit depending on exact needs.

Pro tip....take the driver's seat out first. You are going to want that for clutch pedal in as well soon enough

Ahh well...I'm sure the 2000hp rb shops have them on the shelf, just ring with wallet handy Maybe its time for a single cam conversion from an rb30?

Which head are you looking for?

Did you ever work this out? I've never seen M11 on a skyline, only m10, m12 or BSPT...

You may not want to hear this, but daily driving a 30 year old skyline in the US isn't going to be a good experience, every time something like this happens you will be stuck for months. The rack reco should be trivial at a specialist....take it off, get it rebuilt, back on the car in 1-3 days.

Its the labour that costs....it will be hours per wheel to strip, prep and paint/coat On the bright side they should come back perfect....until the first time you make a mistake parallel parking.....

Yes you should be able to use that connector to force it to run, that is how you bleed the system. If it doesn't work for some reason it will also run if you have the engine running and open one of the bleed nipples (put a plastic tube on it first like when bleeding a brake nipple to make sure no air sneaks in). A common cause for error 51 is the earth between the subframe and chassis causing the pump to get insufficient power (because the subframe is rubber mounted)...you could start by just adding an earth if the factory one is suspect.

What a mission....good perseverance and thank god we don't really have a rust problem around here!

That is a right pain, but much better than having a dead forever unit, good on them for helping (sort of) instead of ignoring. Most likely internal connections will be like a laptop/consumer electronics. Tiny white plug/socket connectors, sets of pins joining mother/daughter boards and ribbon cables for any display connectors into those long plastic housing that flip up (I can see at least 2 of those in the pics). If you are not familiar with them, there would be youtube on all of them, nothing is hard just need to know the tricks