Duncan

and I bought them based on those numbers the other day. would be best to get them from a wreck if you can.

haha it might say that.....but the half moon seals are sitting on top of the plastic bags holding cam cover seals in the first post.

if your car does run this weekend.... BETTER GO CATCH IT!!!!!

my race car has limited klm regular insurance rather than race car insurance. very cheap compared to comprehensive of course since it is shannons/suncorp, god help me if i ever have to claim

yeah the connection between the body loom and engine loom is different between 32 and 33. I assume 34 is different again. But I'm sure it can be sorted.

multi posted threads merged

the only real trick to sway bars....is make sure the car is on level ground when you do it. if not the bar might have load on it and it will be a bastard to change

I can't come up with any other ideas, but I can answer re the A050R. They are consistent from new to medium wear, and drop off slowly. Plenty of testing of this on heavy cars 1800kg commodores up here, and the guys are very happy with them, including racing up to an hour straight (a lot longer than any targa stage). I'm not happy with their 600 a tyre price tho. Very different to the previous A048R which did indeed drop off significantly between brand new and medium wear - in the order of seconds a lap. Not to say your problem could not be tyres though...depends how old they are, how they were stored, how they were heat cycled when new etc etc. Also, if you are testing the impact of colour on performance, maybe paint it yellow/purple/silver and find out if it becomes cursed. Either rolls down hills or blows up motor depending on the order of the colours.

hmm I can't see how silicon will hold if metal didn't but hey it's worth trying I guess

it is normal to hear some noise when you turn the car off, it can keep spinning for a second or 2. but I would not call it "loud". and you should not really be able to pick it from inside the cabin if the motor is running like at lights. generally when they are stuffed though it turns up as a whining under load ie when you first hit max boost, so that may not be the problem. i think you should be concerned....get a workshop to check it out. if it is failing the sooner you pull it apart, the less damage you will do to the turb and potentially motor.

absolutely unbeleivable. are you saying an insurance company claims department over-rode a magistrate's decision on blame? that is a new low, even for the bottom feeders in an insurance claims department.

haha I'm less likely to enter my car in a 12hr race than I am in targa. A whole chassis worth of destruction in 1 race! might run in someone else's car one day if i decide to spend my whole racing budget on a single event one year

oh....and.....wtf????

actually i thought the point was clear...banned. and just in case the message was not clear all round. I AM SICK OF ALL THE JUVENILE CRAP IN THIS SECTION. More bannings coming if breaches of the rules continue. The guidelines are clear. They are here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?app=forums&module=extras&section=boardrules In particular "Treat all members with respect and courtesy - We will ban any member(s) who make personal attacks, threats or mistreats any other member in anyway (discretion is up to the moderator at the time of the offence)"

yeah exactly, the cam cover baffles, not the cam baffles. but on the bright side your post makes sense to me now

hey that statement is still current

umm yep that would do it unlucky

ha! you got one of the quietest weekends ever!! hardly any blood to show for working on the girl neil...i will happily squeeze my ample arse into any race car

I'd use copper washers, not o-rings. nice and tight. yes, unbolt the back cover, and remove the small metal plates that act as vanes on the rear pump stage. then bolt it all back together....if you don't remove the vanes it will die quickly

rear of the head. pics in the first post of this thread

sorry mate not going to be there. i have a few things still to sort out. motor is running but lots still to update have a good run though

just to clarify that.....workshop manual calls it an F160 not F180. From that I assume it is a 160 size not 180. I'm not sure either way, that's just what the manual calls it.

sorry, but that is crazy. sure for road use, but I would never do it to a track tyre.

just copy the super taxis. put a few, smaller diameter pipes in under the chassis rail. I'm going to run twin 60mm, same as my dump pipes. I have run 3" sidepipe before but it did scrape at times

i use a pivot guage that taps the ecu water temp sender. also pfc displays digital temp readout