Duncan

yeah mine came with nissan remote start too. removed it when I put the local alarm in, don't trust anything that important that I can't get fixed!

It certainly does in the manual. the auto has a similar but steel insert in the crank shaft

and that is exactly how you would block it

maybe! I am far from a sparky...but if you are testing resistance between ground and a globe you will get some reading, even on the stock harness. nfi how or why that works.

The club group buy is through Fenix. Chinese cores with end tanks and fittings welded on in NZ. Everyone using them is happy so far. But if you want a thousand dollar radiator, talk to PWR

Yes that is very straightforward. I run a much larger custom sump with an external oil pickup (it taps into the side of the nitto pump). When originally assembled the sump builder provided an inline mesh filter. The workshop that built the motor removed that mesh filter and ran a straight pipe. I have no idea why. Yes it was a bad decision. No I am not going to name the workshop. Totally incorrect. I have never spoken to a person from Nitto prior to last week. My only dealing with them was to buy a single oil pump at retail. I am not saying they would do this all the time, or for everyone, but I think it was amazing service to do so for *anyone* What he said. They are M4 bolts, I can't find them in the factory workshop manual so I use the general guide of 6nm (ie f**k all). I will always replace them all every motor from now on as I do with many other engine bolts, too easy to torque them incorrectly. BTW, its sad how the internet seems to be full of people who want to put shit on every business. sometimes companies do the right thing, and I think it should be recognised among all the bad stories out there.

thanks guys. I've got lots of incar from my car in that race on youtube (it was much wetter than the TV cameras showed), but I really wanted people to know that you can watch Australian motorsport on TV that is not just taxis. Hopefully they got the viewing numbers they need to, to go ahead with the plans to televise the whole champs next year as part of a 20 series show on Speed. Lots of us complain about how boring supertaxis are....so support something different with your eyeballs

and that's the real problem here. People are taking disagreements or personal dislikes from thread to thread. Leave it behind. Cut the personal stuff and let it all settle down a bit. don't even post a joke that might be taken as a dig for a while. Everyone in here is a bit touchy at the moment, and we are (presumably) all fans of the same series of cars. and the only thing dumber than arguing about which make of car is better than another....is arguing about which series of the same model is better! FFS!

good post, thanks for following up on the outcome. I've always wondered about the dark factory glass, r34 4 door and c34 stagea both have the same thing and I have been waiting to have an argument about it with a cop one day.

The bolt was a cam cover baffle bolt head that broke off. Unfortunate but not really relevent to this. I'm more impressed that a company went so far to help out in the week that everybody is shut down.....i don't think an imported Jun or Tomei pump from nengun would get exactly the same level of support. Arthur, bottom end machining, head clean and bearings were about 1500, pistons, head bolts, main bolts and head gasket were 1500. +lots of time! Bob, I got mine direct from Nitto, but there are plenty of re-sellers, including in SAU for sale

can't wait until school holidays are over and all the kids in this thread go back to school. I normally have to go to nissansilvia to find juvenile crap like this.

ahh well oil flow was indeed badly affected which is why the motor died....but that is very much the bolt head's fault, not the pump's. A fair bit of metal ran through this pump but the gears were fine and it just needed fixing of the alloy housing.

2 posts above! Nitto pumps are easily available locally, excellent quality and excellent support. http://www.nitto.com.au/products/oilpump-RB.html?category=engineblock about $1300

It's a happy story for the new year I have been running a Nitto oil pump on my race car for about 18 months now. In that time, the pump has outlasted 3 different motors which failed for different reasons, but it has just needed a good clean, and it's been bolted back on. But this story isn't really about the oil pump itself. A recent oil analysis showed that my last motor was rooted, so I organised all the bits to rebuild it over xmas. Of course, the issue is that everyone is closed over xmas so you have to get everything organised ahead of time before everyone finishes up. Bottom end machined by TCH, new pistons, rings, bearings, bolts from Just Jap. Head cleaned. CAMS engine measure and sealing guy lined up for later the next week. Hills Motorsport opened up the workshop for me to work in over the week because I don't have a place to work at the moment, and we got underway stripping the old motor. On Monday (Boxing Day public holiday) we got to the bottom and and stripped everything inclduing the oil pump. When we opened the oil pump.....we found a bolt head in it. Bad scoring on the oil pump housing, backing plate and some light damage to the gear. This bolt head had been sucked into the oil pump and had been bashing of the gear for 000s of rpm. But the real issue is we were stuffed for progress because we did not have another oil pump to use, and I only had use of the space for a week. And the engine sealer was already locked in for that Thursday. Mark from Hills called up Andrew from Nitto, and he came out on the Public Holiday, picked up the pump, opened the shop the next day and called on of the guys in. Some machining of the housing, linishing of the gears, new backing plate and measuring later, I got back a shiny, useable oil pump the following day with a very reasonable bill. So....thumbs up for Nitto for helping out when we were stuck. They have an excellent quality product at a good price, but most importantly they are local and stand behind their product. Good work guys

yeah that sucks pretty hard. I had the exact same thing happen (without the other drive being a cop of course) when I was on my Ps. They pulled to the left into the gutter and slowed almost to a stop....then turned right into a driveway after I had started to overtake. We ended up each fixing own damage. I guess you might be able to win this (talk to a lawyer in the thread in this section), they did cause the accident by not indicating. But how will you prove it (2x untrustworthy kids vs 1x upstanding cop), and does that absolve you of all responsibility to overtake safely? BTW if they really claimed, you are a p plater, so you are at fault....that might actually help if it did go further. Very brave of them to say that even as a "joke"

surely not....oil is from plants that broke down millions of years ago!

haha stable....that's exactly what i need to store all the cars lol michael as if you don't have 2 projects on the go yourself when is that race car going to be back on the track btw, was a shame not to see it at the national sprints at morgan park last month damo, honestly can't remember. but they are a cheap forged one, originally bronze but we had Craved powercoat them white. they look excellent, hopefully they will be strong enough..... BTW this bloody car better be seconds quicker than the production car. otherwise I'll burn the f**ker to the ground.

finally got a copy I can post....

ahh don't worry too much....just making the point that these bolts should be very lightly tightened. personally I do them until the rubber seal under the screw bulges a little and then stop.

don't knwo for sure because I've always gooped them per the manual I would leave it unless you can see it leaking though

you need silicone gasket or similar under the half moons, but no-where else. watch out for the rocker cover bolts, the factory torque on those screws is very low. 2-4nm only. also, might as well replace the whole cam cover seals if you are pulling it apart.

yep use the standard gasket, or if not space it out with washers. You will chew out the CAS otherwise

Got mine today too...looks great, well done guys.

hahah I feel like I have 3 skyline projects on the go....this one, my race car...and neil's 33. more than enough to keep me busy! And you too!

Engine/Car: rb26dett / r32 gtr Type of failure: Approx 1000klm and 5 race days. Second set of turbos failed with oil starvation so I pulled the motor down. Main bearings showed major oil starvation issue, although none had actually spun yet. Got an oil analysis on the motor (see this thread) which showed high levels of iron (5x normal), fuel (2x normal), and bearing material copper/lead (100x normal). Based on those results I stripped the motor and got an engineer to report on it. Based on the oil analysis and bottom end disassembly they said the failure was due to oil starvation and poor lubrication - related to sump design and fuel in the oil respectively. However when subsequently stripping down the oil pump we found a bolt head in the oil pump intake which was the real cause of failure Factors influencing the failure: see above! State of tune of the engine: production race car motor Suspension and tyres: bilsteins, eibach springs and kumho or federal semi slicks. sticky enough to drive around corners on 2 wheels Oil used and service interval: Redline 5w50 and Motul 5w50. Oil changes after every 3 race days. Interestingly the engineer's opinion was that the tune was OK despite having 7% fuel in the oil, AS LONG AS there were more frequent oil changes. I will now be using oil quality testing to understand how often I need to change oil in the race car - at $40 it is cheap compared to 10l of redline at $40/litre. Yes, $400 oil change. General comments: As Moeller said....."trust nobody"!