Duncan

Engine/Car: rb26dett / r32 gtr Type of failure: Approx 1000klm and 5 race days. Second set of turbos failed with oil starvation so I pulled the motor down. Main bearings showed major oil starvation issue, although none had actually spun yet. Got an oil analysis on the motor (see this thread) which showed high levels of iron (5x normal), fuel (2x normal), and bearing material copper/lead (100x normal). Based on those results I stripped the motor and got an engineer to report on it. Based on the oil analysis and bottom end disassembly they said the failure was due to oil starvation and poor lubrication - related to sump design and fuel in the oil respectively. However when subsequently stripping down the oil pump we found a bolt head in the oil pump intake which was the real cause of failure Factors influencing the failure: see above! State of tune of the engine: production race car motor Suspension and tyres: bilsteins, eibach springs and kumho or federal semi slicks. sticky enough to drive around corners on 2 wheels Oil used and service interval: Redline 5w50 and Motul 5w50. Oil changes after every 3 race days. Interestingly the engineer's opinion was that the tune was OK despite having 7% fuel in the oil, AS LONG AS there were more frequent oil changes. I will now be using oil quality testing to understand how often I need to change oil in the race car - at $40 it is cheap compared to 10l of redline at $40/litre. Yes, $400 oil change. General comments: As Moeller said....."trust nobody"!

Well....since the new build is finished I guess I will have some figures to post in the next few weeks, I intend to get the run in oil checked for interest. Will also check the proper oil after run in, tune etc. BTW failure reason for the old motor was identified, a bolt head from the cam baffle bolts were found in the oil pump intake. Also explains the high (5x) iron on the oil analysis

sorry I don't have access to the full regs - maybe pm Kristian (Iron Chef Imports) and confirm the details.

well....time to dust off this thread. Beleive it or not, the car has finally emerged from storage and will be worked on again in probably 3 months. proper wheel is on the front, not the rear (don't fit yet after all the subframe mods, it is seriosuly low). And I mean the car not the trailer, where the right wheels are on the back not the front. Did grog make that last sentence make less sense? fortunately for me it is moving to melbourne so I won't be getting my hands dirty for a while.

OMG I remember this thread. The March is getting a forged bottom end and big (ie 1x GTR) turbo at the moment. Also has a full sic lumpy cam. Probably running again around March ironically

I'll take a 32 screen for sure to go with Neil's 33 one. hopefully some other motorsport section whores will want one too.

yep get it to pedders and up on the hoist. Put the steering on full lock and see what rubs or is close (ie might rub if the car's wieght is on it). Also remove wheels, calipers and discs and see if there are any rocks etc caught as they will cause this noise (I guess you had to do this to replace the wheel bearings though) fortunately for everyone except you....nissan put excellent quality bearings in the skyline hubs and they almost never fail. even stock bearings on race cars.

it only says stock turbo housing....not stock turbo. I'm sure they can get a reasonable result out of squeezing a ball bearing centre and big wheels in a standard housing.

well...that is extremely strange. wheelspin at the front but not rear is pretty much unheard of, unlike many 4wd systems, attessa cannot put more than 50% to the front. so unless you have some crazy wheel alignment (you already said you now have the same tyres all round), I think it is most likely to be a diff problem. It is possible you have a different ratio diff front to rear, and that might cause the issue you are talking about. best to get a good workshop to check it out. if you want to check diff ratios yourself, get the car off the ground, and have 1 person turn the rear wheels while 1 person watches the tailshaft turn. You should get 4.1 turns of the tailshaft for 1 turn of the wheels if it is a standard diff. The most likely other options are 4.4:1 (gts4), 4.3:1 (stagea) of 3.8:1 (r34 gtr, I think)? Then try the same test on the front wheels. Different ratios front and rear will be a disaster for attessa, it is designed around rear wheel spin and moving to the front, never front wheel spin. BTW that is all assuming you don't have a 1000hp drag car. If you do....you will have to work it out for yourself

unfortunaely yes. the 32 PS pump is 2 stage because it does power steering and hicas. 33 and 34 have electronic hicas, so they only have a 1 stage PS pump. Also, R32 uses a 4 ridge power steering belt while 33 and 34 use 3 ridge belts. I am not certain if the 32/33/34 brackets are different, but the rest of the setup certainly is. I would suggest getting a 33 or 34 bracket, either are likely to be fine. The block and head mounts are the same 32/33/34 so it is only the pump side that would change. I think even rb30 bracket is the same even with the taller block (on rb30 the bracket bolts only to block, not block and head as it does on 32/33/34 rb26)

hahah +1, thanks

evos are also fine. they just have to be at the back and out of line of site

only if you are a skyline enthusiast?

its moveable now. and neil you have a gtr to put together next sat/su/mon as well were those HKS strut tops dusty?

jase

good question! I've converted a few 33 gtr ones to push, very easy. unbolt the front cover from a push box and bolt it onto a pull box (new gasket needed). tap 2 holes (available on the casing) for the slave cylinder, and off you go! but the 34 will probably have a different front plate for the geabox.

no

absolutely it does. SAU NSW is a skyline enthusiasts club details are here, and would be great to see you on the cruise

so in the days of strong AUD and weak USD.....who has dealt with a us based online tool shop?

why post 3 times in the same section?? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/82083-stagea-brakes/page__st__800__gopid__5601840#entry5601840

the main things you can do for a brake system are: 1 New pads - the complier is required to do this by law. perhaps he forgot temporarily? 2 New discs, or machine discs flat - Discs are 150-300ea depending on model, and machining generally costs around $40 per side. 3 New Fluid/Bleeding - Costs about 100-200, replaces the fluid in your brake lines and removes any water and air bubbles that may have collected. Assuming 1 is done, if the brakes thrum/pulse you probably need 2, and if the pedal is long and it doesn't stop well try 3. There are other more expensive things that could be wrong (of course) but they are the main place to start. Complier has to give you a road worthy car, although any additional work on top of pads, tyres and fluids will probably cost you.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/335784-powdercoater/ Chris is doing some covers and manifolds for me at the moment. Great job and cheap.

lol do you do gymnastics and synchronised swimming as well

factory delivered, back in the day

or even better at superlap....who wants to see drift demos at a super sprint