Duncan

yeah unfortunately the gtr has those bolts into the sump not a bolt on bracket. i did say 1-2 might be ok for road use. fixing it will be very expensive. probably worth trying and keeping an eye one it.

lol I ground the side off a sump plug once....must dig up the pic....

your old r33?

face what now? I'm stuck on IRC, #SAU

umm that is not ideal, the spring clips hold the pad in the caliper. I have used r pins for years instead of the wire to hold the pins in, but I've never tried it without the spring clips

meh then you don't have friends either. why don;t you go and be no-friends with each other?!?

see that's why you don't have friends

yeah that is too many broken maybe for street use you could get away with 1 or 2....but not 4. the block and or sump need to be welded and tapped, or replaced. btw flywheel bits can do enourmous damage. follow the holes through the chasis and make sure they haven't hit anything important like cutting a wiring loom. Also watch out for pieces of the last owner's legs in the driver's footwell.

lol sif you have friends!

still not sure if m35 is the same as r32/r33/r34, but if it is, there is a second bleeder near the driveshaft/subframe as well as the gearbox.....try that one first you might have an airlock

haha harry has busy hands! good car control

they should all retract exactly the same way. if one is much tighter it is probably not straight or already seized. as you push one piston in all the others will want to move out. you have to push them all together, or hold 3 while you push the other one

well maybe down south....even my little car was over 6000 in 5th at PI, I guess the powerful cars would be pretty high up in the revs.

lol, aren't you the one that keeps posting up targa spec evos with 2.2l motors? the one make series are the biggest places for cheating...it is too hard to get to the front otherwise. the one I used to run in was the safest type - the promoter prepared the cars so you know other competitors weren't cheating. even so there was a 10% variance in power across the grid which was a lifetime when you are trying to catch someone on a straight.

I don't know if m35 is the same as r32/r33/r34. But if it is: You will not loose xfer case oil if you drop the front driveshaft. There is a seal The system will always bleed when the motor is running. Once the accumulator is empty the pump will start up. There is a second bleeder just above the rear driveshaft (in addition to the one at the gearbox). 9 times out of 10 you don't need to use it, perhaps this is the 1 time.

firstly, be careful! the piston needs to slide back straight into the caliper. if you try and force it at an angle it might seize. and if you push even harder you might manage to score the bore and damage it permanently. firstly....clean everything really well with brake cleaner. this will remove as much old brake dust as possible. even scrub lightly around the piston with a nylon brush. then - before pushing it back, make sure your master cylinder is almost empty. If it is not it will overflow when you push the pistons back. then, you need to push them back as straight as possible. use something long and wide to lever them downwards like a large spanner or thin hammer. take it slowly and change from side to side to make sure they go evenly. a g clamp is even better it will push them back straight.

bad arse. But there are others with even worse rep levels.

god this thread went quiet. is everyone still hung over? nee-san. Khamal is not such a nice guy. he almost ran me over in his rolls in the bunnings car park.

you may find there is nothing else bent at all. The stock castor rod position has some pressure on the upper arm - that is why those bushes flog out so quickly. Can you hold the arm in place while you bolt the castor rod in? If so, do that and then take it for a wheel alignment.

well you are smarter than nissan then! They say new seals, and no silicon type sealer. I have done it both ways in the past but have always found seals alone to be fine, even on the race car, when you do them carefully (ie make sure it is all flat, not pinched etc). BTW, you can buy "lock nuts" to make sure those exhaust manifold nuts do not come loose. Just make sure you buy heat safe ones, the "nyloc" style ones are not OK on the exhaust manifold. Also, there are about 12 exhaust manifold bolts, and some are hard to see. Check them all, they are a common point of failure through loosing or the stud they screw onto breaking off.

drop the shaft from the xfer case to the front diff and see if the vibration disappears

Hey Noel, everyone talking in this thread about Time Attack who lives outside QLD means "Superlap ™". What you guys call time attack locally is exactly the same as our supersprints. Open rules with lots of classes. It's just in QLD yours mostly don't run under CAMS because there is only one CAMS track. Marlin, Tim said you are full of gay

lol who called supersprinters SOFT Duncan? Any competition with a car is motorsport to me (obviously that excludes that fad drifting, because it's more like syncronised swimming, gymnastics or surfing than a sport). If you beleive some people look down on supersprint, what do you think about motorkhanas (one of the easiest to enter but highest skill disciplines there is?) The most important thing about getting people involved in motorsport is that the expectations are realistic. And forever, sprints/supersprints have been an entry level format. (no that doesn't mean it is not a competition, anything but.....but it should be cheap!!!). Superlap kills that idea by requiring top level/international budget in what should be an entry level event. Noel, Russman....you guys are obviously getting into this with your eyes open, so no problems from me. It's the endless list of people "building a car for superlap" that worry me - with a more realistic goal they could be running 5-15 events a year and having a ball. But if you want track time in a different state (and I do!) then there are much better events. Come to the SAU wakie day, you will get 7x15min sessions in 1 day for $250, vs superlap 4x10m sessions over 2 days for $400! That is exactly why I entered the supersprint nationals at Phillip Island and Morgan Park, I want to try new tracks and have heaps of laps. BTW this is thread of the week on SAU (well except maybe for the hottest girlfriend thread)....great to see everyone cares so much

BTW Bozz....I'm sure superlap has been good for tuning shops......that is where the naive entrants who think they are going to win are spending heaps of their hard earned to come mid field! Then they take a year to save, spend a more, enter again and find the whole field has done the same thing and they are still midfield. Superlap is nothing at all to do with supersprint numbers being great atm, that was already happening and I am yet to hear the word "superlap" mentioned at the state super sprints or a race meet. Almost no cars enter both events (less than 10?). At the CAMS club council, none of the clubs that attended other than SAU had even heard of the event. Of course there are places for outright events with limited rules - but they are not at the "accessible" end of motorsport.

yes, and no! I choose to race in production cars, because I know I can win or come close to on my (very limited) budget. It is restrictive rules that make that possible. Yes my race car is probably the slowest GTR in the world but that's OK I'm only racing 6l commodores.....20 years and they have finally caught up On the other hand, what do you think the winning car in the IPRA nationals cost....or the winning car in NSW sports sedan....or the winning car at superlap...