Duncan

yes, but if you just take out the cams you can confirm it is pistons touching valves which is the most likely. Just undo the cam bolts slowly, start at the middle and undo a turn or 2 at a time on each bolt. also, are the spark plugs in? if so when you try and turn the balancer it is producing compression which can make it harder than you expect to turn the motor. But either way I would not turn it far before putting the timing belt on. You mentioned #1 is at TDC which is correct. The pin in the cams should point at the marking on the backing plate, or about 280o on lnlet and 70o on exhaust.

I think that would be fine as long as you have a bleeder hose attached with fluid in it (ie if it does draw back it will only pull whatever just came out). But still, it doesn't make a lot of sense, it would always be faster and more reliable to close the bleeder in between. There is definately no 1 way valve(s)

do you have cams in the motor? is the timing belt on? when you say you made sure valves are not touching pistons, how did you do that?

BTW....run the numbers if you like....but detonation failures are far more common in #6, especially in rb26s. Ring lands and/or big end bearings Plenty of theories about plenum air distribution and heat at the rear of the motor, but who knows for sure.

lol I go there so often it's in my favourites. actually I owe it at least 1 more post and probably 2 since I last posted. haha Pete was just annoyed that I got to break his car. payback for when I lent him mine the year before. Actually thinking back I've had 2 other people driving when motors let go in my race car.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/46581-report-that-engine-failure/page__hl__report+engine+failure

I'm willing to bet it's because they look good. almost no-one will get brakes hot enough to crack rotors on the street.

good to hear you are OK Nick +1. toe is more likely to cause excessive wear than camber.

semi slicks will not be a problem - the better your tyres, the less you need to punish the brakes

my leak is fron the front drain of the sunroof, leaks to the front passenger floor....but only if I park nose downhill

You know....I haven't seen what your plans are? What do you want the car for? Track days? sprints? racing one day? rallies? If you never intend to race or rally seriously....buy anything. If you are ever going to have to build to rules think really carefully before you start, lots of people make expensive mistakes by not thinking ahead. On the other hand I made an expensive choice by thinking too far ahead

Yeah they are bolt on, I have bought 3 sets for different cars (GTR, 350z and Stagea) and they have all been bolt on. They will be here: http://www.justjap.com/store/home.php?cat=285

You should consider the D2/G4/Ksport etc 8 piston kits instead - they are around $2k and come with larger discs (330 or 354), 8 piston calipers, new pads and new brake lines. Excellent performance for the price. P Mu pads are just expensive or what they are. If you just want pads with more bite contact GSLRallysport on here and see which pads they suggest.

what sort of use will the car have? In my experience lots of places make big sumps....but not many have acutally competed sucessfully with them in trying conditions. I reckon most of them are not much better than standard.

+1 sounds wrong to me.

you won't need a working washer bottle for the track day, in fact you probably don't need a working wiper (they are unlikely to check, and properly applied rainex on a clean windscreen works fine) it looks like most of the large auto stores are open over the weekend, give them a try for the stud. I am not sure for GTST, but GTR shares stud size with something local so most places stock them

lol that is Plan A for me. They are very tight on my car....I undo the caster rod so it is not distoring the bushes, that helps a lot (although it is a bitch putting that back in too). Then bang in the inner end, adjusting with pry bar and big hammer. Once it is close use something small like a screwdriver to align hole until the bolt can go in. Then bang it in from there. Be careful when banging, you don't want to damage bolt thread or new bushes. The the outer end, same process. The caster rod back in, 2 person job or use some sort of ratchet strap or similar to pull the hub forward.

I would have thought so...otherwise how will it seal - bolt head on sump? copper washer, o-ring, fibre washer, something is needed!

I am pretty sure that is the main ignition power, ie everything is attached to it. Does it run from the extra clip in the battery via fusable link into the main loom?

The restrictor from factory (and aftermarket ones) is about 3mm deep. Generally people just push any new restrictor on top of an old one, so you need to drill 3 to 6mm. But you should drill it out of the block and then push it in later, you don't need crap in the oil galleries.

to Just Jap for helping out so quickly....

That's the ones, thanks Chuckie.

craved on here is.

nope, not the fuseable link, it is just a big fuse. the light on the dash provides a little resistance and makes the alternator charge. this causes an issue if the globe is out, but I guess it isn't otherwise you would have mentioned. how low does the multimeter show the voltage goes?

I guess I am missing the point as usual The PFC HC shows about 1v higher than the turbo timer? Have you put a multimeter across the battery terminals to confirm which one is right? If it is just the turbo timer reading lower it is probably just a wiring problem (power or earth) to the turbo timer