Duncan

well there you go...wikipedia can be wrong! airbags were only an option in series 2 (very common though)

its only a temporary tyre to get you out of trouble....get to a tyre shop for a proper solution

goddamit the scam is finally over ah well they were good times.

meh i use bolt all the time, never had a problem. just remember the washer to make sure the chain can't slip off.

don't forget pretty much every skyline is aus has spent 6 months sitting around at auctions/docks/compliancers as well. other than dead battery (always disconnect, and if possible charge it every few weeks), I've never had any problem. And my car is often off the road

BTW the click is almost always a dead battery or bad connections between the battery and starter....just does not have enough volts to turn it.

I'm pretty sure it's not the same as even the stock diameter. It is an emergency spare and you should replace it asap.

A couple of things: Almost every torque split controller does not let you set a fixed torque percentage. They just allow you to increase the amount of front torque over what the attessa system would do on it's own. The HKS Kansai controller is the only one I am aware of that lets you do a fixed split R33's attessa pump has some pressure in the line at all times, this means it is always running at least a little front torque. It has been proven over and over again that the only safe way to run 2wd in a 33/34 is to remove the front driveshaft - luckily that only takes 5 min and 4 bolts.

no-one can do burnouts on a public road....the laws of physics prevents it. Burnouts only work off the street. kind of like sump baffle syndrome only exists in NSW and n1 pumps only fail in vic. but...n/a skylines are still great.....better than a falcodore or something.

great upgrade brad

banned. f**k off elsewhere if you want to be an idiot and give import drivers a bad name

what did you decide to do? I have done both, but thru the top is easiest in most cases. particularly if the box is staying in. The sump can foul on the sway bar but a bit of tilt on the motor will get it past that, thos engine tilters or similar are handy

I don't have any issue with any core, I run an ebay one on the race car with no problems. But yes the cost of making a custom fit can quickly exceed the cost of a car specific kit

lol I'm even slower than Nick! Hope you had a good trip Micah

umm bit late, but yes - that is the main "fuse" in the car. did you get it sorted?

good catch....first time I got caught out by this I had to pull the front off the motor to fix the leak its genuine nissan design which is not like them at all....normally everything fits properly first time

in! we are heading up for a run

where abouts are you based chef? I've got SK's setup in mine and it is great. Only bilsteins, springs, swaybars

very bad news for me. I vowed never to get pay TV because Murdoch tried to kill Rugby League. Now there is a 24hr racing channel. And NSW Production Car racing is going to be featured in their coverage starting our next round in 3 weeks. Good on them for supporting local racing/content as well as repackaged international stuff. And I bet cockrane is spewing that there is a genuine option to his boring v8 supertaxi racing

and, the rears probably aren't working that hard depending on how stiff the front v rear springs are. Just put some better pads and discs on the rear it will be fine.

yeah z442 is the one

shan I think you are right....all of these things have been caused by an autobot. POLICE....you have had a hell of a run of luck....I'm with Phil, buy a lotto ticket!

wow! I've got the same problem in my stagea, 15.1-15.5v and have just changed the alternator for the same result. so...same question for you that you had for Paul....which fuse(s) did you return/replace??? I'll double check all of mine as well!

chris is right. they need to be used in qld or they may go off!

me? not yet....but will in the next few days....moving house seriously after 8pm?