Duncan

Interesting, I'm surprised the Fuga behaves differently, although it is older, 2012 model

Hey Darryl, noting I have a HY51 Fuga not V37, but I think it is pretty much the same system. I've never had any issues with slow speed stuff, under load or not. In mine the engine starts before the battery is flat under any condition, and it does so smoothly. I haven't checked putting it in tiptronic to start the engine, but mine does not start when I open the driver's door. I wonder if there is some voltage drop affecting your system (noting the 12v and HV systems are not really directly related, but it is possible a 12v drop is affecting the HV control system) So, not sure how many other people can add an experience here @Fijay @sonicii

I thought maybe the elephant had a catheter?

You will be happier for removing HICAS than trying to get it back to original. The bushes in an elimination kit will also last longer than the factory style balljoint because of their design, although I guess anyone renewing bushes after 30 years will never have to do it again in the life of the car, not too many of these doing the daily commute any more and petrol will disappear soon enough

Sorry to say, the only thing I would ever do No matter how expensive the oil cooler and lines are, losing another engine is more expensive. Also don't forget the oil/water cooler at the block if you still have it, and also the inside of the oil pump if you are re-using that

or for that matter, the fog lights.

It would be better to have lower bolts between the block/sump and gearbox, but plenty of people go without, including my 400kw Stagea. There are weld on extensions for the gearbox so it bolts up OK

My stagea doesn't come up on that link when i search by rego, did come up for VIN only. I would contact DOTARS, not state, because it is the feds who issued the plates

That is easiest*, you do need the car up nice and high if you are doing it on stands to get the box to engine angle straight, otherwise you will have issues getting the shaft into the bush. *opinions may vary.

Some recent local press https://www.goulburnpost.com.au/story/8355481/wakefield-park-receives-promised-funding-slice-in-state-budget/

I haven't heard anything official, but a few things - new owners are in - significant earthworks underway to add earth mounds around the track to block/reduce noise - state budget did come through with $1M handout to them - intention to submit a new DA as they reverted to the 30 year old approval But I haven't heard any reopening date or conditions. In the meantime, Pheastant's Wood is still operating, but it might be too small for supercharged boats. Good for a Yaris though, you wouldn't have to lift all lap

yeah, head jobs can be cheaper than you might expect I would suggest getting that dent sorted though as pinging tends to start at irregularities

RB30 is awesome, but it is not a quick and cheap way to get back to the track, there is a bit of stuffing around required due to block height (a little easier in 2wd, but still a pain)

Poly bushes are really the way to go, whiteline are fine for street and even race use and so are other brands eg super pro etc. Some of their bushes are available in black instead of yellow if you don't want them so obvious Noltec aren't really around any more, but they did have issues with crumbling over time, don't use them if you come across them. I haven't had a particular problem with other brands, they do degrade over time depending on use like factory ones do.

JB Weld and go again

Yeah that's not going to buff out. How is they bore where the rod failed, any grooves you can catch with a fingernail?

Yeah, I don't either. I tape a zip lock bag around it to catch any drips, you should be doing a full bleed afterwards anyway and the caliper/pistons are a bigger volume of air to bleed than the lines

I just mean, if you have modified the wiring and used the ECU ground pin to fuel pump earth, that could be a cause for burning out that circuit in the ECU. If it is wired as you said, that was not the cause.

Thanks for closing the loop...you should check that the earth is only being used to trigger the fuel pump relay in your case as if the pump is trying to pull the full earth through the ECU that would cause a problem.

Actually, good idea. To paraphrase the 200B joke, the N54 has 1 less design flaw than the N55

Replacing every bush and ball joint is the #1 best thing you can do in these cars after all this time. If your rear subframe is out, you would be mad not to replace: - Subframe bushes - Diff bushes (and change the oil while it is out) - HICAS ball joints, or even better replace with HICAS lock out - Every upper and lower control arm link (use adjustable aftermarket poly bushes at both ends of every arm) - If you have a press, it is a good time to do rear wheel bearings as well but not essential If you want it to look stock you can put factory bushes back in, but that will be x times more expensive for no improvement in ability to align it. I can't see a car with original bushes that clunks or tramlines all over the place being worth more than one that drives beautifully.

Oh that is not ideal. Perhaps ship it over to "I do cars" to tear down and make back the cost in youtube views?

To be fair, the answers aren't exactly contradictory, you can make over 300kw with a full standard intake (I do, on the race car at high boost), but it could be causing some restriction. High boost (18psi on N1 turbos, >300kw) needed a swap from factory to 550cc injectors, low boost 250kw I just got there on stock injectors 440cc In your case, I would keep the factory intake as living in the state of california is known to cause cancer and you probably don't need the attention

You can get there with the standard airbox, no problem, and injectors you need 550ish for PULP but larger is fine

You'll be fine with the standard gears at around 350kw, if you are kind to gearboxes. I've been racing on a standard box for years at around that level, including standing starts etc. I've worn a few out (synchros and bearings) but nothing broken