Duncan

agreed. 1 is an unfortunate occurrance. 5 is a mistake that needs some responsibility. re the block...the scoring doesn't look good, but you will need a machine shop to check out whether it just needs a hone or a bore out. either way its not really a problem to reuse up to about 87mm.

hi mate, hicas bars are pretty simple (and pretty much all the same). Smoe kits include a loop back for the pipes which is the easiest option, if you want the other options there are a range of detailed threads around if you search. But as well as that, at least a basic attessa controller, and a good wheel alignment should help heaps. What are your current wheel alignment settings?

no its easier than that. As blind_elk said, just swap the internals of a diff (gtr if you want the mech centre) into your existing housing. that way you know everything bolts up fine. so all you need is a 2nd hand gtr diff and someone who can assemble it properly. BTW blind_elk...do you have the numbers for gtst and gts4 as well. this thread is a valuable reference now

glad you are asking that question....your lap times at Eastern Creek are excellent but they reflect that the car is going extremely quickly. In fact you and Marek would have the fastest non-caged cars ever at that track I bet. The reality is it will only take a single critical component failure and you are into the wall at 250+. I broke a castor rod there years ago, and I understand Stu had a wheel bearing seize just last week. It does happen, and then all you are is uncontrolled momentum. I only know 3 gtrs locally that have been written off (Leehmuis, Quinn and Jones), all had full cages and all walked away from a destroyed car. Kel was in the car for one of those crashes and can confirm it hit hard but kept it's cabin protected. No idea how you can judge the comparitive safety of caged vs uncaged, except remember that the uncaged car is designed to deal with the sorts of accidents that happen on the road, not things like big rollovers or straight on into a wall at well over road speeds.

interesting. i guess that's why the r35 systems runs seperate eyelets for pretty much every wire, all to common studs. stuffed if I could work out why, it must be very sensitive

fwiw....a nismo engineer told me years ago this was a must do mod...will be interested to see the results.

got any pics of the diff centre? If it is 4.1 ratio it is gtr not gts4 (they are 4.4 ratio). i guess they just got the backlash wrong when changing the cente to do that sort of damage. but a gtr pinion should not cost too much? how many teeth on the pinion? you can always confirm the ratio by turning the tailshaft and counting the halfshaft turns

interesting idea though....I'll be in for a wsid night if there is a gathering. would be pretty funny to see a volvo attack on wsid.

guys contact selbys swaybars in minto. new owners (sydneykid is gone unfortunately) but they still have the machinery and samples to bend up everything (about 3000 sway bars on the wall last time I was there). the m35 one will still be there. won't be as cheap as whiteline but its great to support a local business.

my bloody race car does the same thing at idle...always has and everything except the loom has been changed over the years. runs fine above idle though so it's never worried me too much.....

if not, I have front and rear r32 gtr you can borrow, I will be in goulburn in 2 weeks if you want to catch up there. same condition re deposit of course.

OK, had a chance to have a look. All functions are effectively identical to the normal HC (contrast page is different but has the same purpose). The firmware is at least a little smarter, my old HC used to come up blank when being used via a PS2 extension cable whereas the EL comes up with "communication error". But all the actual tuning and monitoring functions are the same as the regular HC. anyway pics are pretty crappy (no interior light in the race car ) attached: serial number version number screen start up logo el contrast control even so...it is very ricey and I'm not sending it back

racist rubbish removed. next time think before you post or warnings will be handed out

I'd talk to Darron at Just Jap and ask what he thinks. 18" should be ok, and if not you can always adjust the bracket or remove a little caliper if its close to fitting. I cant see how 400 is not enough clearance for 356 + caliper, maybe someone who has the brakes nearby can check how far the caliper hangs off the disc, surely only 10-20mm

sorry mate, not sure and the car with the 356s is not nearby. I saw a post earlier about them not fitting under 18s...pretty surprised about that given we slipped them under 17s. I'd suggest getting someone nearby and trying your wheels over them....but I guess there are not many gtrs with 356s in wagga. BTW, very late, but yes roy they are the 356 in the pic above.

totally agree Paul. Jarrod, did they replace the water/oil heat exchanger at the oil filter and any oil coolers? Never re-use them after an engine dies. In any case, this is a warranty issue right? something was clearly wrong in the maching or assembly. Hopefully you paid one shop for both so there is no fniger pointing about the failure. New crank is a good idea, especially if the keyway was average in the first place, the old one would probably need undersize bearings too after BTW don't worry too much about how long it ran without oil pressure. If the light comes on at high revs its already too late. Also, the oil pump failure is often the symptom, not the cause, the gears crack when they try and push metal through.

Well....can you get the car down to 1250? The table you have posted is interesting...there is no tyre width limit based on weight in the cams rules so they are a local addition. They are very restrictive so it will be interesting for the competition. The best thing to do is to have a look at the front running cars (or those you want to be competitive with), what do they weigh? Also have a good look at available sizes and prices before you decide....presumably dunlop slicks are the ones to have, they are here.

mine's exactly the same as Ben's. I use a NO relay, and if you leave it on it drains the battery. It is mounted at the cigarette lighter in easy rach ofhe driver and has a pull cord to the base of the a piller for external access. the relay cuts the power from the battery to everything except the starter and alternator. because no ecu power causes the car to stall, not isolating the alternator is fine.

I'd love to see some official nissan doco on the r32 n1 model if anyone has it. we use 0.8 bar = 12psi as maximum boost based on the workshop manual as posted above.

doesn't that suck! I have one of chooks tuners and an aftermarket head unit, and it is always on. which is pretty disctracting when there is motorsport on, but great for news etc in the morning traffic

hahah well done getting such a clear pic there! that is the breather for the front diff, if you follow the hose down you will see (feel?) that it ends on top of the diff. It should not have a hose on the other end, it breathes to air

hahaha not happening (or at least I am a slow learner). I don;t beleive there is anything fundamentally wrong with every product that comes from a whole country. but yes, they are modifiying the turbo this time to deal with the weakness (thrust washer)...will see if it makes a difference. lets remember my goals.....250awkw from an rb30 with heaps of low end torque.

and check if the earth at the brakes lights have continuity with earth when the switch is off. probably a short somewhere in the wiring

interesting project....more pics and info! fwiw I don't know anyone who has broken a transfer case on the track. Except me and that was an assembly/clearance issue.

if you want to quieten down the zorst a little you should consider putting a turbo on it